See THIS is why I built the way I did. I routinely drive 80 on the hi way with one finger on the wheel and enough power to NOT downshift on hills. But I can still play with the big boys
See THIS is why I built the way I did. I routinely drive 80 on the hi way with one finger on the wheel and enough power to NOT downshift on hills. But I can still play with the big boys
OP
Yup. 4-banger. A whopping 120 HP. It's got 215-75R15's (27") on it right now and that is about the right tire size for the engine and gear ratio. That's with 4.10 gears. With 31" tires a 4:56 gear ratio runs about the same RPM as the 27" tires and the 4.10 gears. I'm actually thinking about 4.88 gears with 31" tires to get closer to the torque peak at reasonable speeds. Right now the little Jeep will go faster than it needs to. 65 - 70 is plenty!
Chris, you know that hill up to Government Camp on 26? Coming from the west side? I'm in third, floored, to keep up with traffic on that one. And that's not all that loaded down. Just me and the wife and some day trip stuff along.
Chris, you know that hill up to Government Camp on 26? Coming from the west side? I'm in third, floored, to keep up with traffic on that one. And that's not all that loaded down. Just me and the wife and some day trip stuff along.
I know that hill indeed! I'll bet you'd like 4.88 gears on your rig, that would bring it to life. I've never driven a wrangler 4 cylinder but I owned a 88 Cherokee 4 cylinder and that thing was so amazingly slow I could barely even pass someone on the highway.
OP
That's what I'm thinking as well. On the flip side of the coin, it only weighs in at 3,200# with a half tank of gas. I think the key to making my rig work the way I want it to is to keep it light and gear it correctly. That and don't go overboard with the mods.
I had an 87 Cherokee with the four banger and a five speed. 235-75R15 tires. The trick to that one was to drive it like you were mad at it. I used to beat the snot out of it, and it went over 200,000 miles. Again, it was the base model with no options. The Jeep four bangers do very well, you just have to understand what you're driving. You can drive them around at 4 - 5,000 rpm a lot and they don't complain. They sound like they are coming apart, but they never do. Just change the oil and put plugs in them once in awhile.
One of the advantages of going with the 31" tire on the four banger is that the Dana 35 rear end is just fine. Better axles, re-gear, add a limited slip and they will live a long time if you don't hammer them on the rocks or get them to bounce. You could probably put a locker in there and still do OK if you stayed off the skinny pedal when you needed to.
I had an 87 Cherokee with the four banger and a five speed. 235-75R15 tires. The trick to that one was to drive it like you were mad at it. I used to beat the snot out of it, and it went over 200,000 miles. Again, it was the base model with no options. The Jeep four bangers do very well, you just have to understand what you're driving. You can drive them around at 4 - 5,000 rpm a lot and they don't complain. They sound like they are coming apart, but they never do. Just change the oil and put plugs in them once in awhile.
One of the advantages of going with the 31" tire on the four banger is that the Dana 35 rear end is just fine. Better axles, re-gear, add a limited slip and they will live a long time if you don't hammer them on the rocks or get them to bounce. You could probably put a locker in there and still do OK if you stayed off the skinny pedal when you needed to.
Yes, I remember having to drive my Cherokee like I was mad at it. It was like a Honda in that you had to keep it high in the RPM range to make any power.
With 31" tires on a Dana 35 you should be more than fine. Throw in some chromoly axles and a locker and you'd pretty much be bulletproof for the most part.
With 31" tires on a Dana 35 you should be more than fine. Throw in some chromoly axles and a locker and you'd pretty much be bulletproof for the most part.
OP
Yup. Plus, nobody wants a Dana 35. They give you no bragging rights. Even if I did blow it up, they are cheap and plentiful. Not to sold on a locker yet. Limited slip at least, but there is a reason that a locker is called a low side finder. I drive in snow and off camber snotty stuff enough that a locker may not be the way to go. The jury is still out. The Sub and my old Cheyenne Super had lockers. One the corporate locker and the other a Detroit in a Dana 60. Both would toss you off the low side if you lost traction. Rear end first. I really want this thing to be capable in the snow, ice and snotty stuff. I don't see lifting one wheel on each axle more than having to drive on slick roads.
John Carmony
TJ Enthusiast
I've thought about aussie locker in front, and Ford 8.8 in rear with limited slip. Not sold on how the 4 banger would do with 8.8.
Sent from my VS990 using Tapatalk
Sent from my VS990 using Tapatalk
OP
No opinion on the 8.8 with the 4 banger. I wonder how much power it would rob though. The power budget with our four bangers is limited, and most of it should go to turning the tires, not the axle. Don't have any idea what it takes to turn an 8.8 all by itself. Plus doesn't the 8.8 hang down lower on the pumpkin than a Dana 35 or even the Dana 44?
I've read that lots of people like an aussie locker in the front. No experience with them though. I'm pretty sure I'm going with a TruTrac in both axles. At least until I learn of a better setup.
I've read that lots of people like an aussie locker in the front. No experience with them though. I'm pretty sure I'm going with a TruTrac in both axles. At least until I learn of a better setup.
If I was to run 35's with the 2.5L engine and 8.8 rear axle, I'd be darned sure to regear to 5.13. 4.88 wouldn't be enough gear for 35's and the 2.5L engine.
OP
Hey Jerry, what do you think of 4.88's and 31" tires with the four banger. Think that is to much gear? And what about 4.88's in the Dana 35?
Every TJ made came with progressive rate rear springs and they are progressive in the only way it can be done. If you measure a rear spring's wire diameter, they are small at the pigtail and then taper to the largest diameter at the middle of the spring. Then they mounted them at a slight tilt between the upper and lower perch to add just a touch more progressiveness to them.
The reason you don't see progressive springs in the aftermarket is cost. Unless you're willing to drop about 500 on a pair of springs, they won't exist any time soon.
You'd be fine with 4.88s in a Dana 35. I'm not sure how low a Dana 35 can go but I know they can go to 4.88 for sure.
I think I read where 4.88 was the highest (numerically) you could go in a Dana 35.....but don't quote me
OP
Yup, I actually found a thread on another forum where you discussed this very point at length. Sometimes you have to dig more than other times to get the answers you are looking for.
I think that I am going to take a gamble on the JKS Jspec 2" lift kit for the TJ this spring. Without the optional Fox shocks though. There are apparently some problems with the Fox shock bodies limiting up travel due to the size of the shock body. (valve body?) I need to double check that to make sure I understood what was said correctly. Thanks to everyone who added to the conversation. It helped a lot!
The bolt in shocks limit up-travel due to the internal floating piston needing a place to live which is in the up-travel zone. Makes the body longer than it should be to house the piston.
I've seen nothing special from JKS so I don't know how excited I would be over their offerings.
OP
DarkKn1ght
Member