Extension wire for oil pressure?

AaronD

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Nov 29, 2020
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Kansas City
'97 TJ, I6

Superficially the same problem as this thread, but the usual diagnostics say that everything's working correctly except the reading itself:
The dash reads about half of what a mechanical gauge does, and like the other thread, the dash often drops to zero once it's fully warmed up and trips the alarm, when the mechanical one still reads just fine. I've also replaced the sensor with no effect. I've even tapped into the wires and run a datalogger on it, and it is in fact reading proportionally. The fast changes track engine speed, and the longer trend follows temperature, exactly as expected. And still a good-looking signal on the wire, even when the dash is zero.

So I've put a tee fitting and plug on the plumbing side (1/8" NPT), so I can have both working at the same time. And I'm looking at putting some electronics between the sensor and the wiring harness, to read the sensor, fudge it to match the mechanical gauge, and send that to the dash. Once I like it, I can take the mechanical one off and put the plug back in. Keep the tee, in case I need to check it again.

I'm not ready to make anything else permanent yet, so I'd really like an extension wire that I can cut up. So if it ends up not working, I can take the extension out and plug it back in direct like it is now. I have non-waterproof connectors to do that in the middle of the wire, but I'd rather stick with the original waterproof one if I can. There are lots of plugs to go on the end of the wiring harness and stick into the sensor, but I can't seem to find anything in any form that mates with it, except for the sensor itself.

Any ideas?

—-

Once I have that, the next thing is going to be switched 12V power to run the electronics. The two wires that go to the sensor appear to be a solid ground and a signal, which is pulled to +5V through about 250 ohms. Similar to some 4-20mA current loop sensors that I had on some industrial projects. Pulling it down towards ground, with varying strength, directly affects the reading on the dash.

No explicit power is required for that at the sensor, but my added electronics do need power. Only about 40mA or so, but that's still enough to drain the battery after a while, so it has to be switched. Where's a good place to find it?
 
No idea on the connectors but I installed a Racetronix cube and a Glowshift pressure and temperature sensor in addition to the factory sensor.

Several issues... can't get it to stop oozing oil with all the fittings. The temperature probe is long enough it needs an extension to fit into the cube and I think it's so far out of the flow the temperature is off 50-60 degrees.

Personally I'd just cut and splice the wires. If you want it removable use spade connectors or a two pin connector of your choice.

Someone will know the part, though.

-Mac
 
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It’s completely likely that the sensor you replaced with is also bad. Many here will say Mopar or why bother, although I’ve had great luck with Standard Motor Products.

The mechanical gauge proves you have good pressure.
 
Personally I'd just cut and splice the wires. If you want it removable use spade connectors or a two pin connector of your choice.
I have lots of these already, in two different sizes and lots of different pin counts, but I'm concerned about corrosion because it's not waterproof:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2652920802...pid=5337789113&customid=&toolid=10001&mkevt=1
In fact, I already used a 2-pin version and a couple of inline splices (the kind you snap over a wire and mash with pliers) to hook up the datalogger. I wasn't as concerned about that one because it was only meant to be used that once. But if I'm going to rely on it long-term, I really do want it to be waterproof.

I guess I wouldn't necessarily HAVE to have the same connector. I could use 2 each (total of 4) of a different waterproof thing, and just have the original one at the end of all that. Essentially, that would be changing the OEM connector for a different one, then making an adapter from that back to OEM, and putting a choppable extension into *that*.

And there's still the question of where to get a switched power lead. So if I go that route, I might actually end up with a 3-pin waterproof connector instead of a 2-pin, with the new power pin on the sensor side unconnected.
 
I guess I wouldn't necessarily HAVE to have the same connector. I could use 2 each (total of 4) of a different waterproof thing, and just have the original one at the end of all that. Essentially, that would be changing the OEM connector for a different one, then making an adapter from that back to OEM, and putting a choppable extension into *that*.

And there's still the question of where to get a switched power lead. So if I go that route, I might actually end up with a 3-pin waterproof connector instead of a 2-pin, with the new power pin on the sensor side unconnected.
Just ordered this, with free non-prime shipping, so it'll be a few days. We'll see how it turns out.
https://www.amazon.com/HYAT-Waterpr...-Connections/dp/B09M3KGLJZ?tag=wranglerorg-20

And I got a replacement OEM connector from O'Reilly's too, just in case that's the problem. Still waiting to make up the entire rig, so I only do that once regardless, and it doesn't hurt to have a weird connector in the middle of it. And I can get rid of my temporary tap in the process too.
 
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I have the connectors now, and I realized that this is the perfect opportunity to add a provision for my own version of a speedohealer, since it was on jackstands already to fix an exhaust leak. So that took 1 set of those connectors, out of a 3-pack. I won't do anything with the speedohealer connection yet, so the other 2 sets are still available for oil pressure, which will still be enough.

Just waiting to know where to pull switched power from, so I don't have a dangling wire getting dirty before I try to connect it.
 
Ah yeah I ordered something similar for my door power locks. Every one of them fell apart within a few months. Pins wouldn't stay in the connector bodies, plastic clip wouldn't stay engaged. Was a mess. Haven't fixed it but looking for replacement connectors.

-Mac
 
Ah yeah I ordered something similar for my door power locks. Every one of them fell apart within a few months. Pins wouldn't stay in the connector bodies, plastic clip wouldn't stay engaged. Was a mess. Haven't fixed it but looking for replacement connectors.

-Mac

Hmm... I guess we'll see. Did you move them much? Or did they fall apart just sitting there?

I can understand the plastic getting soft or brittle, but even if it does, I'd think that not moving it would extend its life by a lot, compared to constant plugging and unplugging. (though if it's especially bad, that extension could be from weeks to months...)
 
Moved them a lot...I used them to disconnect wiring to the doors.

-Mac

I need to find a picture, but for XJ Buddy's DIY removable doors, we used actual orange extension cords to make it easier to plug/unplug the power to the doors. It was beautifully ghetto & completely utilitarian.
 
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I need to find a picture, but for XJ Buddy's DIY removable doors, we used actual orange extension cords to make it easier to plug/unplug the power to the doors. It was beautifully ghetto & completely utilitarian.

Haha! Nice! I would love to see that picture!
 
Ah yeah I ordered something similar for my door power locks. Every one of them fell apart within a few months. Pins wouldn't stay in the connector bodies, plastic clip wouldn't stay engaged. Was a mess. Haven't fixed it but looking for replacement connectors.

-Mac

I bought a pack of prepinned DT connectors to avoid buying the expensive crimping tool. I've got one that dangles off my truck bed topper and has been there over a year and hasn't deteriorated yet.

They are bulky and expensive tho
 
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I need to buy a crimper. I want to redo my add on fuse panel and relay box with something more compact...all the good options require a crimper for that pin ecosystem.

-Mac
 
Ah yeah I ordered something similar for my door power locks. Every one of them fell apart within a few months. Pins wouldn't stay in the connector bodies, plastic clip wouldn't stay engaged. Was a mess. Haven't fixed it but looking for replacement connectors.

-Mac

Turns out it's even worse than that. Failed right off the bat! And I had somewhere to be. Fortunately, it's a manual transmission (AX15), and I know what the tach ought to be, so that worked. Looks like the plastic molding doesn't hold the pins very well, so a slight misalignment (which is also easy) pushes the pin back so that it never makes contact.

A trip to my local O'Reilly's got me this, which looks like the exact same thing except it's made with bigger wire (probably a few more differences than just that), and it does work:
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...ct-tite-14-gauge-pigtail-connector/cti0/91442

While I was there, I also got some of their uninsulated crimp connectors with pre-cut heat shrink, loose in the same package:
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...-gauge-black-silver-butt-connector/cti0/90905
That seems to to work better than Harbor Freight's version with adhesive-lined heat shrink already on it...which squishes out into my crimper and prevents it from closing all the way:
https://www.harborfreight.com/10-pack-18-22-gauge-watertight-heat-shrink-butt-connectors-66595.html
Now if O'Reilly/Dorman would add adhesive lining to theirs...

So anyway, I got my speedo back, with a readily available connector inline now, and ready to insert a correction module later. Back to oil pressure again, and I *think* I might have a spot to pull power from: an aftermarket cruise control that rarely worked right, so I disabled it but left it in there. Maybe there's enough left of that that I can trace...
 
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After about 2 weeks of driving, it seems that the O'Reilly connectors are working perfectly. Both speedo and oil pressure. Now to get some other projects out of the way, and then put the mods in...
 
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