fixing up the jeep, got some questions

YoungMechanicAlex

YoungMechanicAlex

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May 30, 2017
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Michigan, United States
Hey fellow jeep owners! i'm new to the forum so bare with me!

I Just have some questions regarding my jeep and some issues I came across. Any help/Advice is very much appreciated.

2000 Jeep Sahara TJ 4.0 I6

Issue #

ONE: my clutch {recently} completely gave out/fried. I am currently dropping the tranny and I ordered the well known LuK clutch set on amazon, it was on a price cut for $93. I dropped the skid plate to find that 3/6 bolts had to be cut off and the bottom side of the frame that is pressed up against the skid plate has rusted through, the frame is sturdy on all other sides but how should I go upon fixing this? I do have access to my friends welder but I myself have never welded and i'm sure he will help me weld on reinforcements. I'm very mechanically inclined and can fix/rig a solution if I want but some opinions on what to do would be awesome.

TWO: I also dropped the gas tank to replace the fuel pressure sensor, while disconnecting wires and hoses the metal EVAP hose/system snapped. Would automotive heat shrink tubing be enough to reconnect the broken area? (obv. dis. it from the gas tank. it's not fourth of july.... yet ;)

THREE: The last thing I have to disconnect to drop the tranny is the E12 bolt on the passenger side. Whats the best/most effective way to disconnect the SOAB?

FOUR: There is a black substance at the front of the tranny and U-joint connections of the front and rear drive shaft? what could it be?...

FIVE: I'm using a wire brush to get rid of surface rust on my frame, then using krylon rust tough enamel primer then a layer of rubberized frame undercoat I picked up, anything else I should do?

Thanks for any input :)
 
One: Have someone else weld replacement pieces of steel into the frame. This is not the time to learn how to weld. What those bolts thread into are threaded inserts that are 'set' into holes kind of like pop-rivets but obviously a lot stronger.
Two: I can't imagine heat shrink tubing holding up long there, I use it all the time for electrical connections but.... I'd look for replacement parts.
Three: Go buy an E-12 torx adapter at your local auto parts store. I bought mine at NAPA but was very surprised to see that Autozone now carries them too. It is just a female E-12.
Four: That black tarry substance could be old oil that came out of the engine's rear main seal. It is not uncommon for that seal to leak oil.
Five: I'd spray couple coats of Krylon paint over the Krylon primer. I've never trusted rubberized coatings over just a single layer of primer. Make sure to adhere to the curing time instructions on the paint/primer cans. Spraying additional coats at the wrong times, after an hour or before several days have gone by, will result in the paint crazing/wrinkling.
 
Jerry Bransford said:
One: Have someone else weld replacement pieces of steel into the frame. This is not the time to learn how to weld. What those bolts thread into are threaded inserts that are 'set' into holes kind of like pop-rivets but obviously a lot stronger.
Two: I can't imagine heat shrink tubing holding up long there, I use it all the time for electrical connections but.... I'd look for replacement parts.
Three: Go buy an E-12 torx adapter at your local auto parts store. I bought mine at NAPA but was very surprised to see that Autozone now carries them too. It is just a female E-12.
Four: That black tarry substance could be old oil that came out of the engine's rear main seal. It is not uncommon for that seal to leak oil.
Five: I'd spray couple coats of Krylon paint over the Krylon primer. I've never trusted rubberized coatings over just a single layer of primer. Make sure to adhere to the curing time instructions on the paint/primer cans. Spraying additional coats at the wrong times, after an hour or before several days have gone by, will result in the paint crazing/wrinkling.
Click to expand...

thanks for the response, I appreciate it. I already have the E12 Socket, it's just really tight up at the passenger side bolt. im going to try to get it to loosen with a torch like I did for some other bolts.
 
I concur w Jerry.

In regards to your rusted frame rails, if they're really bad, I would suggest 'safe-t-caps' by autorust.com - they can also be purchased (i believe free shipping) via various websites such as Quadratec or ebay, Morris4x4 and others.

As for painting your frame, follow the cans preparation steps. Prep is everything when it comes to paint holding up strong and well.

And nix the 'rubberized' stuff. It tends to traps moisture and hides the rust as it works its way from beneath.

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fourpointzero said:
I concur w Jerry.

In regards to your rusted frame rails, if they're really bad, I would suggest 'safe-t-caps' by autorust.com - they can also be purchased (i believe free shipping) via various websites such as Quadratec or ebay, Morris4x4 and others.

As for painting your frame, follow the cans preparation steps. Prep is everything when it comes to paint holding up strong and well.

And nix the 'rubberized' stuff. It tends to traps moisture and hides the rust as it works its way from beneath.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

this is the stuff I bought as a final cover, should I use something else? thanks

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003CT49AI/?tag=wranglerorg-20
 
The only place I'd put that stuff is on the inner wheel wells to deaden sound. Use a good quality frame topcoat for the frame. Rust is teh debil!
 
I agree w Bob in regards to the rubberized spray.

In the past, I've use petroleum based paints to fend off rust. Not sure if your rubberized paint contains petroleum. It typically doesn't really dry, as it seems from some of the reviews. Eventually, I discovered a product called, Fluid Film. It's not a paint product but a type of oily organic film that prevents, can stop and slows down rust.

If your rust is only surface and in fact very minimal, I'd stick w Rustoleum primer an top coat, as you initially posted. Sans the rubberization.

If your rust is more extensive but not compromising the metal, I'd suggest a product called POR-15. Come Fall (NE snow + salt) I apply Fluid Film to my frame and it's truly been amazing. Not pretty, but amazing in terms of rust prevention.

Do some searching and see how they may apply for your use.


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YoungMechanicAlex said:
TWO: I also dropped the gas tank to replace the fuel pressure sensor, while disconnecting wires and hoses the metal EVAP hose/system snapped. Would automotive heat shrink tubing be enough to reconnect the broken area? (obv. dis. it from the gas tank. it's not fourth of july.... yet ;)
Click to expand...
This part is usually corroded pretty badly toward the rear, I replaced my line without dropping the tank at all, and it took me under a half hour. The cost was about $25-$30 for the new line and can be found here:
https://www.4wd.com/p/jeep-fuel-vap...=JEP52127601&gclid=CLbK8_bJmNQCFQ9bhgodImYIcA
 
fourpointzero said:
I agree w Bob in regards to the rubberized spray.

In the past, I've use petroleum based paints to fend off rust. Not sure if your rubberized paint contains petroleum. It typically doesn't really dry, as it seems from some of the reviews. Eventually, I discovered a product called, Fluid Film. It's not a paint product but a type of oily organic film that prevents, can stop and slows down rust.

If your rust is only surface and in fact very minimal, I'd stick w Rustoleum primer an top coat, as you initially posted. Sans the rubberization.

If your rust is more extensive but not compromising the metal, I'd suggest a product called POR-15. Come Fall (NE snow + salt) I apply Fluid Film to my frame and it's truly been amazing. Not pretty, but amazing in terms of rust prevention.

Do some searching and see how they may apply for your use.


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Click to expand...

Will do. Thanks!


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