Front track bar: Currie or JKS?

Jeeptundra

Jeeptundra

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May 17, 2020
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Tacoma,WA
Looking for some input on a track bar. I have a 4in lift with adjustable CA’s, HD from my diff cover. I have a rear track bar with the relocation bracket on already. I want to hear some opinions about modifying or installing a different mount for the front. I’m in the market for a track bar and want to ensure I do it right once. I’m looking at the JKS or the Currie. I know everyone is inclinated to respond with Currie but those with a JKS I would like to hear your inputs. Or even the Clayton track bar. Thanks again
 
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From reading on here, I don’t believe you need to relocate the front bracket, but putting in an adjustable is a good move.
My understanding is the angled bracket rear is necessary with an SYE because you need to angle the pinion up toward the TC.

I may be totally off and not followed correctly, but if you alter the bracket for the front trac bar, then you’re changing the relationship with the drag link which will alter steering.
 
cpwolf said:
From reading on here, I don’t believe you need to relocate the front bracket, but putting in an adjustable is a good move.
My understanding is the angled bracket rear is necessary with an SYE because you need to angle the pinion up toward the TC.

I may be totally off and not followed correctly, but if you alter the bracket for the front trac bar, then you’re changing the relationship with the drag link which will alter steering.
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I did install the rear bracket to gain clearance from adjusting the pinion angle.

I was wondering if an aftermarket bracket for the front has its benefits?
 
It’s at 4” of lift. You shouldn’t need anything but the stock track bar location brackets on that size.
Kits include them and a drop pitman arm, and I’ve read all over that it just caused problems and isn’t necessary for a 4” lift.
 
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A good track bar is worth the money ...but I don't gauge a bar by the bar..it's the bushings that make the connections. I avoid any 2 piece polyurethane set ups , and like the JKS design for the money. Any thing by Currie is well designed.

I run a Rough Country and switch out the bushing for a Moog K7252 3/4 ton Dodge for the denser rubber, heftier center and bigger bolt to torque down.

Any bracket should be avoided unless you just have to do that for some wild reason... dropping the track bar and drag link are redundant....keep the angles of those 2 stock if possible. For sure don't change one without the other.
 
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I would not change anything with the stock mounting. It’s not necessary with the right trackbar. It introduces changes in geometry. Best to avoid.

As far as front trackbar. I have an MC at 3” of lift and a RockHard 4x4 hard hat with no issues. However, the heim joint is not the best, JKS is better, Currie is the best. Main thing you are wanting to accomplish is Long life for the frame side joint and clearance for the diff.
 
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I have run the rough country with a 2" lift, it took some clearancing of my diff cover at how low I am but it will probably work great at 4" of lift. AndyG had a nice tip about the bushing in it, I also noticed the bushing it comes with is way too soft, but its hard to beat at $130 and my local shop had it in stock.
 
Feralkid said:
What’s the functional difference? I got the jks, it’s cheaper and causes no interference when I cycle the suspension.
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Is the JKS frame side pushed forward at the (not a) Johnny Joint?
20200216_132937.jpg
 
Does anyone have a Currie track bar close up picture of the frame side?
 
jjvw said:
Different than mine?
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Weird. I originally saw your post but no image. Now I see both. For the bolts, they show a 5/8" on the frame side. However, they don't mention what the passenger side is?
 
Irun said:
Weird. I originally saw your post but no image. Now I see both. For the bolts, they show a 5/8" on the frame side. However, they don't mention what the passenger side is?
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Depends on which one you buy. I'm running the smaller stock size axle bolt in a drilled mount because I wanted the rubber bushing.
 
TJS track bar uses a 10mm bolt. It can be drilled out to 7/16 but not needed.
TJJ track bar uses a 1/2" bolt but a poly bushing.
Moog k7252 bushing can be installed and uses a 9/16" bolt but does not have a lot of rubber between the sleeve and the barrel.
 
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jjvw said:
Depends on which one you buy. I'm running the smaller stock size axle bolt in a drilled mount because I wanted the rubber bushing.
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I've got a MC TB I'll be replacing at some point. If I remember correctly it uses a 9/16 bolt. Good to hear I can still run the smaller bolt. Any issues with having to recheck the stock bolt size torque?
 
Irun said:
I've got a MC TB I'll be replacing at some point. If I remember correctly it uses a 9/16 bolt. Good to hear I can still run the smaller bolt. Any issues with having to recheck the stock bolt size torque?
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Just once, right after install this last spring. It's been tight for several thousand miles since then. I had the MC bar before as well. Good riddance.
 
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Lou said:
TJS track bar uses a 10mm bolt. It can be drilled out to 7/16 but not needed.
TJJ track bar uses a 1/2" bolt but a poly bushing.
Moog k7252 bushing can be installed and uses a 9/16" bolt but does not have a lot of rubber between the sleeve and the barrel.
Click to expand...
Bingo...good description. I have that axle side bushing on both my Rubicons .....Stout but not harsh, excellent choice to handle the moving energy large tires can transmit and fight back the wider tire footprint to keep the axle centered.

To me, it's a matter of scale.. with 2 ends of the equation..tires/wheels and chassis weight....the track bar is in between the two using lever action to keep the axle centered, and all the stress is on each end, given the rod is basically a big steel shaft that isn't going anywhere.

I may be dead wrong, but I wonder if the prevalence of track bar/bump related death wobble on TJs is also exaggerated by large tires versus the bushings density and the vehicles weight in proportion to all that as the counter force.

Don't get me wrong ...slop is slop, and worn parts are going to move.. but my 3/4 ton Fords both have taken much more speed to exhibit track bar related shakes or death wobble than my TJ's.

We rarely see a stock tire/rim-death wobble scenario.

I'm talking over my head some here, but I try to understand things conceptually.
 
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