Ok before everything if I was to get it around 2-3000 rpm it would have a super aggressive jolting almost like I was slamming the gas then letting off and that had popped up 2 days before I started working on . 83000 miles on it with new transmission in the second owner the first wasn’t very good to it and I don’t know if the timing chain was ever replaced
Fuel pump issue
- Thread starter Jwatts
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- 2005 tj 4.0 engine 6 speed
Ok before everything if I was to get it around 2-3000 rpm it would have a super aggressive jolting almost like I was slamming the gas then letting off and that had popped up 2 days before I started working on . 83000 miles on it with new transmission in the second owner the first wasn’t very good to it and I don’t know if the timing chain was ever replaced
I wouldn't expect the timing chain to be at play here. They should be significantly longer lasting than 83k.
Well, that could either be limp mode RPM limiting, if the check engine light was on, or the fuel pump not keeping up.
I'm at nearly 300K on the original chain and pump.
I'm at nearly 300K on the original chain and pump.
that’s about all the info I can think of. Did just look at my injectors and 2 of them are pretty shot
Run the PCM checks I asked about earlier. It will take you 5 mins.
05, 06 PCMs are known problems.
05, 06 PCMs are known problems.
The WORST thing that you did was throw the parts cannon at it,you most likely replaced good hard to find mopar parts,if it fires off of carb cleaner,you have spark.you could send the pcm to @Wranglerfix to have him test it.
Swap the relay, check the fuses, then look for chaffed wires.
You can clear the codes with a reader or battery disconnect and see if they return.
The FSM is available under Resources.
Before any changes all you had was a p0300 and now these two?
Checking your wiring harness isn't a bad idea, but it seems like you're just tossing the kitchen sink at one code only to find others. I mean this respectfully, slow down and change a single thing at a time.
Let's say for now, start tracing the wiring harness. The loom on these is garbage and by now is barely hanging on. Watch for any bare wire or rubbing. The bottom of the firewall near the transmission tunnel is one common spot. Another is at the back of the block before it corners down toward the transmission.
Swap the ASD relay as well. You don't have to get a new one. If the horn works swap the horn relay to ASD slot.
Last time I helped someone with a fuel pump issue the wire was broken 18 inches down the harness from the fuel pump.
-Mac
-Mac
Always. Used to get calls from the field, "hey we swapped all the blk boxes and the system still doesn't work. what do you think?" I think you're going to be ohming out the wiring harness bulkhead to bulkhead.
Put every part back on to the point where it is running.....running poorly but running. Once you are there, we can help you try to figure it out.
You're just throwing parts at it. You are actually making it harder for us to help you diagnose the problem.
We are asking certain questions that need special tools to get an answer. If you want to diagnose problems, you have to have diagnostic tools.
You're just throwing parts at it. You are actually making it harder for us to help you diagnose the problem.
We are asking certain questions that need special tools to get an answer. If you want to diagnose problems, you have to have diagnostic tools.
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