Fusible links and wire upgrade

Slicknick630

Slicknick630

Member
Joined
Apr 4, 2021
Messages
41
Location
New port Richey, Florida
So today I replaced all my negative wires with 2ga wire to clean things up a bit and I needed new battery terminals and all that. I am making all the wires and connections myself as opposed to buying the kit since I have most of everything anyway. I am now doing the positive wires now and I ran into the whole debate about fusible links. I see in some of the big upgraded wire kits that you can buy they come with an actual fuse to replace the fusible link. I have the 117 amp alternator and I want to upgrade all the positive wires but I am torn as to whether or not I should install a 150 amp fuse or just leave the fusible link alone. Please let me know your input.
A5221B62-7201-4790-B78F-5083B7A7EDE0.jpeg


C96A1D7D-4829-44F2-AEC2-DA45D093E6DB.jpeg
 
The '01 Sport 4.0L that I purchased 1/20 had battery cables and clamps were in need of replacing. The 8 ga cables (course) had more than 1" of wire showing indicating the insulation was receding due to age (original OEM cables) and the battery clamps were gouged badly. The positive clamp has the beginnings of a crack that would not allow you to tighten the clamp without finishing the crack.
I had 2 ga and 8 ga fine stranded cabling left over from a battery cable project on my '98 XJ 4.0L along with fusion copper terminals and military battery clamps. I fabricated all new positive and negative cables and grounding, but since I was not upgrading the 117A alternator; I decided to reuse the charging cable with fusible link from the alternator to the PDC.
 
I always use a “slow-blow” fuse for the alternator. I run a 136 amp alternator so I use a 150 amp bolt on fuse in a holder. Not the best pictures but it gives you an idea…

D2DEA0E3-09AF-43DE-AEC5-34B4A41D244E.jpeg
AC8D3DED-937D-4B1F-9299-AA0BC1FCD6CA.jpeg
669C40D9-A3DB-4624-B478-BACCD54306C9.jpeg
 
tagging on to this topic, my battert recently died on me and because it was less than 2 yrs old and would easilt start on jump, I suspected that my alternator was bad. I replaced it today with an Ultima 136 Amp unit, jumped the jeep which started right up and held steady at 12-13volts on the gauge. I then went to do a freeway drive to ensure a good charge but my check gauges light came on before I got to the freeway (1/2 mile from house). Drove to O’Reilly’s which was another half mile and by the time I got there the jeep was dying. Turned off and wont start. O’reilly is charging it up now for a test but in the meantime I am suspecting that it may be this fuse (this is a fuse, yes?). I did not perform the install of the updated cabling but I suspect this is 5-6 yrs old. My question is how do I isolate if it is this fuse?

IMG_9414.jpeg
 
Unbolt the wires or the fuse and use a multimeter to check for continuity.

Alternatively you you use a test light and lean the fuse on one battery terminal or the other and connect that polarity to said fuse.

Don't completely discount that new alternator...plenty of brand new shit parts out there.

-Mac
 
  • Like
Reactions: bucky and imactj2004
Top Bottom
Back