Hand Throttle Attachment

Nordic

Nordic

TJ Enthusiast
Joined
Jan 21, 2019
Messages
138
Location
Monument, CO
Hey everyone,
I'm looking to piece together a hand throttle, and think I have it all worked out except for the attachment point at the throttle body. I have a manual so no cruise control, so I'll be routing it around where the cruise control cable normally sits and where it attaches at the throttle body. I'm thinking I can either try to sourse a OEM plastic connector, or simply make a loop in the hand throttle cable and try to find a way to keep it on the little knob on the throttle body. Anyone have any experience with either method?

Also, I'm going with a friction shifter. I read that it's good to keep some slack just incase I accidently engage it. Anyone know how many clicks they have to move the hand throttle until it starts to raise rpm? Obviously I know that there's no right number, just wondering what worked for you.

Thank you!
 
Go buy a small lead crimp for that size wire cable from your local hardware store, Home Depot, or Lowe's. Form a tight loop around the button on the lever and then use pliers to squeeze the crimp tight.
 
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Nordic said:
...

Also, I'm going with a friction shifter. I read that it's good to keep some slack just incase I accidently engage it. Anyone know how many clicks they have to move the hand throttle until it starts to raise rpm? Obviously I know that there's no right number, just wondering what worked for you.

Thank you!
Click to expand...

A friction shifter doesn't have clicks. I set mine up to have about 15-20 deg of lever movement before the cable engages.
 
I’d avoid a click type , get you into trouble.

The amount of movement to engage is determined by cable slack

Whats awesome is the amount of control you get over the first 1/4 of throttle

Jerry is correct, lead or aluminum crimps are excellent , don’t loop it .

I enjoy mine off road a lot .
 
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jjvw said:
A friction shifter doesn't have clicks. I set mine up to have about 15-20 deg of lever movement before the cable engages.
Click to expand...

Aren't they adjustable through the screw on the side to determine whether you want to engage the reference points or whether you want it to just return after you let it go, or does that just hold it through tension?
Screenshot_20191128-150935_Amazon Shopping.jpg
 
Jerry Bransford said:
Go buy a small lead crimp for that size wire cable from your local hardware store, Home Depot, or Lowe's. Form a tight loop around the button on the lever and then use pliers to squeeze the crimp tight.
Click to expand...

So nothing else besides a lead crimp and a tight loop? That will be easy enough. If you wanted to remove the throttle body or the cable, would you have to undo the crimp or would you still leave the loop large enough to slide over the knob?
 
Nordic said:
Aren't they adjustable through the screw on the side to determine whether you want to engage the reference points or whether you want it to just return after you let it go, or does that just hold it through tension?
View attachment 126955
Click to expand...
In the bicycle world, the rear shifter is indexed and matches the gear cluster. The front is not indexed, only friction, to allow fine adjustments to a front shift fork so it doesn't rub the chain as you move through the rear gear cluster.

For a hand throttle, you want a friction shifter.
 
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Also, the adjustment screw on the side of the friction shifter of to adjust how stiff the lever action is.
 
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Van said:
Here’s what I did. Just an electrical crimp ring terminal on the end of the cable. Works fine so far.

View attachment 126958
Click to expand...
That’s sensible .

Don’t over think it .

Keep it simple and safe . The key is to secure the black cable housing and not let the cable rub on anything and fray . To me , they are essential with a manual off road . When I get in the rocks , really crawling, I’m 100 percent on mine ..and also like it for stopping to adjust my approach angle ,etc , on an incline . Leaves your feet free for the clutch and brake .
 
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I just installed the Teleflex recently. It has the little lead crimp-on loop thing. Works really well. Even with Cruise control/5 speed setup.

Used on the boat ramp recently. Really comes in handy when you don't have enough feet to get it done.
 
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AndyG said:
That’s sensible .

To me , they are essential with a manual off road . When I get in the rocks , really crawling, I’m 100 percent on mine ..and also like it for stopping to adjust my approach angle ,etc , on an incline . Leaves your feet free for the clutch and brake .
Click to expand...

You how people say to drive the jeep and let it tell you what mods you need? My wheeling buddy drives a four door auto jk, and we've kinda figured out that I need better throttle control whereas he needs either a shorter wheelbase or 40s, so at least mine is easier to fix :LOL: Plus for winching, running my arb, and even warming the jeep up quicker in the morning, I can see why it'd be invaluable.
 
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Dbbd1 the second item he showed also let's you adjust the cable length. With a crimp it is where it is. Which is perfectly fine if you do it right the first time. But using those barrel nuts (at least that's what they called them on the helicopters I worked on) can be repeatedly adjusted to fine tune your cable length. They were common on older carb hand choke cables.
 
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I just had to disconnect mine the other day, yes, those keepers came in handy again.

Another reason why I use two back-to-back, so I don't have to really tighten one down, creating a flattening of the cable. Both are just enough to snug it down.
 
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