Help buying brakes

[Slaverson]

So I have 35s on my LJ and I just had my hopefully last close call on the highway due to my crappy oem brakes.

Anyone have suggestions for brake upgrades?

Ive seen black magic brakes and I can’t afford to spend over 1k on that big brakes kit

Would getting just these pads and rotors for the front help significantly?

https://www.shop.blackmagicbrakes.com/Front-Pads-477s-Front-Rotors-67045s-F-BMBP-47700067045.htm
And I’m not as familiar with brake parts, would that fit my 05 non rubicon LJ?

Would it be worth the 240$? And in the future I would upgrade the rear.

Thanks

 

[Sancho]

I have tried the pads and rotor upgrades... and they are ok. Definetly worth a try.

I had 31's and 33's at the time though.

Though the rotors and pads would be an improvement, 35's will probably need the whole setup, including the calipers upgrade for any significant improvement.

 

[Slaverson]

So I have 35s on my LJ and I just had my hopefully last close call on the highway due to my crappy oem brakes.

Anyone have suggestions for brake upgrades?

Ive seen black magic brakes and I can’t afford to spend over 1k on brakes when I hardly go over 70mph.

Anyone have any cheaper solutions for a brake upgrade?

Thanks

So I have 35s on my LJ and I just had my hopefully last close call on the highway due to my crappy oem brakes.

Anyone have suggestions for brake upgrades?

Ive seen black magic brakes and I can’t afford to spend over 1k on that big brakes kit

Would getting just these pads and rotors for the front help significantly?

https://www.shop.blackmagicbrakes.com/Front-Pads-477s-Front-Rotors-67045s-F-BMBP-47700067045.htm
Would it be worth the 240$? And in the future I would upgrade the rear.

Thanks

I have tried the pads and rotor upgrades... and they are ok. Definetly worth a try.

I had 31's and 33's at the time though.

Though the rotors and pads would be an improvement, 35's will probably need the whole setup, including the calipers upgrade for any significant improvement.

I mean I’m not expecting to feel like a brand new car but I definitely would like some sort of increase in power...

 

[Rubicon88]

I mean I’m not expecting to feel like a brand new car but I definitely would like some sort of increase in power...

Won't really help.

If you're comparing junk pads and crap rotors to those then yes...

Unfortunately the difference you seek will not change unless you get to bigger braking surfaces. The more surface you clamp the better it will stop.

 

[TheBoogieman]

I have the BM pads and Centric premium rotors with 35s. It's a huge improvement over stock brakes and I can lock them up if needed. You HAVE TO DO EXACTLY what the instructions tell you. Mrblaine sold me on these several years ago. DON'T baby them and they will keep working great.

 

[williambmac]

I've had both of the Black Magic kits. The pad and rotor kit is a big improvement as far as a stock configuration goes.
I upgraded to the big brake kit when I had my front end apart and found my knuckles had divots in them.
It's such a huge improvement over the stock setup, especially when you're running 35's

 

[Superjay5]

I have had the Black Magic pads and Centric rotors on my jeep for about 7 years now. I’m on 35’s. They made a huge difference for me. I can lock up my front brakes no problem. My rear I just went with Napa pads and rotors. I’m always impressed with them, always recommend them.

The harder you brake, the better they work. I DD a Super Duty, wife drives a Escalade, the jeep stops as good as either of those, or at least it feels that way.

 

[rasband]

I have the pads/rotors on mine and while they’re better than stock and workable they still lack the control. I’m putting on my BBK today; so hopefully I find what I’m looking for.

 

[mrblaine]

Won't really help.

If you're comparing junk pads and crap rotors to those then yes...

Unfortunately the difference you seek will not change unless you get to bigger braking surfaces. The more surface you clamp the better it will stop.

Why you always have to be that way? There is not one metric that determines braking force output. There are many and the combination is what makes it work better.

The 15/16" kits use a pad that has about the same amount of surface area as the stock pads. The caliper though, is phenomenally better. It has a robust bridge to slow down the amount the caliper flexes open which unevenly distributes the pressure from the pistons across the face of the pad where it contacts the rotor. That keeps the pad working as good as it is able when the pressure from the master goes up in a higher energy brake event.

I've tested many pads over the years and there are pads that will absolutely render the monster pad and caliper in the Super 16 and 17" kit virtually useless with no other change.

Compounds in pads are not something to be overlooked. Ours is the highest friction level I can find that doesn't require the heat to start working. There may be a track pad that is ultimately grippier but we'll crash before we get them hot enough to start working.

 

[ColoJeep]

Why you always have to be that way? There is not one metric that determines braking force output. There are many and the combination is what makes it work better.

The 15/16" kits use a pad that has about the same amount of surface area as the stock pads. The caliper though, is phenomenally better. It has a robust bridge to slow down the amount the caliper flexes open which unevenly distributes the pressure from the pistons across the face of the pad where it contacts the rotor. That keeps the pad working as good as it is able when the pressure from the master goes up in a higher energy brake event.

I've tested many pads over the years and there are pads that will absolutely render the monster pad and caliper in the Super 16 and 17" kit virtually useless with no other change.

Compounds in pads are not something to be overlooked. Ours is the highest friction level I can find that doesn't require the heat to start working. There may be a track pad that is ultimately grippier but we'll crash before we get them hot enough to start working.

It is always good to hear a qualified opinion, @ Mrblaine is very correct regarding the multiple factors in a brake system can effect the outcome. Simply increasing braking surface alone likely will not decrease stopping distance, but it should make the pads last longer.?

Slaverson, something to consider is what is the cost of a wreck to your LJ and more importantly to other vehicles / people , legal issues? Perhaps an adequate braking system is more affordable than you realize. In the mean time temporarily put on some smaller tires that have less leverage against the current brake system. Stay Safer.

 

[Slaverson]

It is always good to hear a qualified opinion, @ Mrblaine is very correct regarding the multiple factors in a brake system can effect the outcome. Simply increasing braking surface alone likely will not decrease stopping distance, but it should make the pads last longer.?

Slaverson, something to consider is what is the cost of a wreck to your LJ and more importantly to other vehicles / people , legal issues? Perhaps an adequate braking system is more affordable than you realize. In the mean time temporarily put on some smaller tires that have less leverage against the current brake system. Stay Safer.

I will definitely take all that into consideration and I’ll use my wife’s car for the time being to stay out of trouble.

 

[Slaverson]

Why you always have to be that way? There is not one metric that determines braking force output. There are many and the combination is what makes it work better.

The 15/16" kits use a pad that has about the same amount of surface area as the stock pads. The caliper though, is phenomenally better. It has a robust bridge to slow down the amount the caliper flexes open which unevenly distributes the pressure from the pistons across the face of the pad where it contacts the rotor. That keeps the pad working as good as it is able when the pressure from the master goes up in a higher energy brake event.

I've tested many pads over the years and there are pads that will absolutely render the monster pad and caliper in the Super 16 and 17" kit virtually useless with no other change.

Compounds in pads are not something to be overlooked. Ours is the highest friction level I can find that doesn't require the heat to start working. There may be a track pad that is ultimately grippier but we'll crash before we get them hot enough to start working.

Thank you for that opinion, I secretly new it was going to help much more. Maybe @Rubicon88 didn’t bed them in properly. Anyways thanks.

 

[jjvw]

The BMB pads worked well when I was on 33s. I ran those for many years and could just about lock up the tires if I tried hard. That wasn't the case on 35s.

The 16" BBK is a whole different experience. Locking up is far easier, but the best part is the improved brake modulation. I find it much easier to control what the brakes are doing.

 

[mrblaine]

The BMB pads worked well when I was on 33s. I ran those for many years and could just about lock up the tires if I tried hard. That wasn't the case on 35s.

The 16" BBK is a whole different experience. Locking up is far easier, but the best part is the improved brake modulation. I find it much easier to control what the brakes are doing.

If you couldn't lock up 33's, you either didn't keep them broken in or you have a glaring flaw in the brake system.

 

[jjvw]

If you couldn't lock up 33's, you either didn't keep them broken in or you have a glaring flaw in the brake system.

I may not have been trying hard enough. I'm a lot more comfortable driving the jeep hard now than I thought I was in the past.

 

[mrblaine]

I may not have been trying hard enough. I'm a lot more comfortable driving the jeep hard now than I thought I was in the past.

Don't forget that all manual owners always lie about downshifting to slow down which ruins the break in on the pads.

 

[Superjay5]

I can lock up my 35’s with ease. I am an aggressive brake user, which I think with the Black magic pads is a plus. I also do not have ABS, which I’m not sure how that plays into it. I feel very confident in my braking ability with these pads.

I do have a manual, I can see how having a auto in low range might exceed the pads alone and might require the Big Brake kit, but I’m very happy with just the pads on my rig.

I have read a lot how jeeps vary for whatever reason in their braking power. Maybe I got lucky and have an extremely good braking jeep…. Cause my jeep can stop in a hurry

 

[jjvw]

Don't forget that all manual owners always lie about downshifting to slow down which ruins the break in on the pads.

Some of us are also highly skilled in the limousine stop.

 

[cache valley]

I installed BM pads and rotors on my LJ and it was a huge improvement, I couldn't lock the tires up but at least it didn't scare the crap out of me when I came to stop sign. My Jeep is heavy with armor, tool box, 35" tires etc. I recently installed 17" KMC Machete bead locks that were on a JKU that I recently purchased and they weigh about 40#s more per wheel and tire. I new that it would be an even bigger problem stopping so I bought a 17" BBK from and Mr. Blaine and I am grateful I did, about two weeks after installation I had a lady run a stop sign in front of me. There is no question in my mind I would have T-Boned her if not for the new brakes. It was awesome to here the squealing noise from my tires coming to a stop about five feet from her passenger door. BEST PRODUCT EVER in my opinion.

 

[Rubicon88]

Why you always have to be that way? There is not one metric that determines braking force output. There are many and the combination is what makes it work better.

The 15/16" kits use a pad that has about the same amount of surface area as the stock pads. The caliper though, is phenomenally better. It has a robust bridge to slow down the amount the caliper flexes open which unevenly distributes the pressure from the pistons across the face of the pad where it contacts the rotor. That keeps the pad working as good as it is able when the pressure from the master goes up in a higher energy brake event.

I've tested many pads over the years and there are pads that will absolutely render the monster pad and caliper in the Super 16 and 17" kit virtually useless with no other change.

Compounds in pads are not something to be overlooked. Ours is the highest friction level I can find that doesn't require the heat to start working. There may be a track pad that is ultimately grippier but we'll crash before we get them hot enough to start working.

I'm not sure why you insist on selective comprehension.?.
I was rather crystal on all things being equal....
Are you suggesting bigger brakes don't make a difference?
Moreover what you are in fact suggesting is NOT what the OP listed. The OP listed a simple new pad and new rotor. Thats it.

I echo again...all things being equal...

The OP appeared to be looking for a significant/decent improvement....no?
I believe I was crystal clear that if doing a lateral change there wouldn't be the improvement he's hoping for unless the current components he's running are significantly inferior.

I mentioned that because I know how Joe buying public operates. They want the cheapest pads and rotors possible and slap them on as they "just did a brake job".
Parts houses have catered to those as well by selling garbage material.
Hence the reason nobody turns rotors any longer. (Yes there might be that one garage)..but really now nobody cuts rotors any more because why the hell would you get a lathe all set up to cut a pair of rotors for $15-20 each when they can just put new on for $22 each?

You bring up your 15/16" kit which is NOT a lateral change and that's not what the OP listed/asked about. Seemed the OP was very clear about not being able to afford that kit right now.
You state a similar braking surface but more importantly you're changing the calipers from a single piston to a dual piston...(not what the OP asked about) and that absolutely positively is a change to the size of the braking surface because you're now getting evenly applied brake pressure across more of the pad rather than just the center.