Help me identify my steering setup

[marksnapmark]

I have a 97 SE 2.5l with what i suspect to be a 4" lift with 35s. My tie rod came off the passenger side tie rod end last night and I want to replace the tie rod and the drag link now that this has happened but can not find this setup anywhere; my tie rod is on the top of the knuckle and my drag link is on the bottom.

 

[Jerry Bransford]

A quick Google search produced their website.... http://www.rockkrawler.com/. Maybe they still have the parts needed for it. Personally I'd replace it, that's a bad design. Wouldn't be cheap.

 

[jjvw]

Looks like the drag link was attached below the knuckle and the tie rod above. Is that what RK intended? Seems odd and maybe why it broke.

 

[marksnapmark]

I have looked at that website and they have nothing on the site. I was going to call on Monday. When you say it will not be cheap what else besides the tie rod and drag link would I need to replace? I understand I am looking at 300-500 just for those parts.

 

[Jerry Bransford]

What you'd need in addition to a replacement drag link and tie rod is a new steering knuckle and, most likely since we can't see it, to replace its dropped Pitman arm with the OE factory Pitman arm. The steering setup most commonly installed that has no steering issues like bump steer which yours likely has, is Currie's Currectlync HD Steering Kit which includes a drag link, tie rod, and steering stabilizer mount.

You'd also need at least a passenger-side steering knuckle, maybe the driver's side too. Whoever installed your present steering system could have done a lot better with a different product.

 

[TJ Hunnicutt]

That is a truly odd setup. It would have to have different geometry from the OEM style design. Also, judging from the rust on the drag bar, it looks like it may have a clearance problem between it and the tie-rod. Good call to replace it.

@Jerry, I'm not certain he will need a new steering knuckle, if the (very strange) heim joint mount was manufactured to properly fit into the tie-rod end mount point (i.e. has the proper taper), then it may have not caused any damage.
I'd get it all off and make that call when you can see everything and check for damage.

Put up a shot of you pitman arm and we can tell you if it's a "drop" style (not desirable).

 

[Jerry Bransford]

You could be right on the knuckle in his photo but I'd be very surprised if its taper wasn't effed up/drilled out by whoever installed that RK kludge.

 

[TJ Hunnicutt]

Your probably right. But, taking it all off (you're already disabled anyway) will tell that story.

 

[marksnapmark]

So took everything off and got some pictures. I think that the tie bar is not rock krawler because its just a sticker. The knuckles are looking from the top side.

 

[David Kishpaugh]

Similar to oro, and iron rock. I seem to recall another brand but can't remember the name at the moment that made that configuration

The reason the drag link is under the knuckle is to keep the stock steering and track bar geometry.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

 

[TJ Hunnicutt]

It's a bit difficult to see in the pics but it does look to me like that knuckle's tie-rod end mount hole is janked. You should be able to confirm in-person; is the bore of the hole smooth and tapered (it looks like it may have a wider ridge worn out in it about a third of the way down the bore.

And that's definitely a drop pitman arm. A standard one looks like this:

Looks like Jerry nailed it (not a big surprise ).

I have stock tie-rod components on my '01 so no help on suggestions there. The '06 has the Rugged Ridge heavy duty setup but the only experience I have with it is the 200 mile highway trip home after buying it...so, again, no help. I'd trust the other guys on here with more experience with aftermarket tie-rod setups.

 

[marksnapmark]

Yes the knuckles have been reamed out. I am looking at the iron rock setup now to see I don't have to change out knuckles.

 

[TJ Hunnicutt]

If you would rather go with an OEM knuckle, they can be had from salvage yards for less than $50 (usually). Crown automotive, and probably Omix ADA have new replacement parts for under $90. I think I'd go that route if your handy with a wrench.

 

[marksnapmark]

So after looking at everything and pricing out everything I have come down to the JCR UTK or the CavFab. Both of these are bolt on for what I have currently on the Jeep. I understand the faux pas of having any of these systems but I am playing the hand that was dealt. SO which is the lesser of two evils.

https://www.jcroffroad.com/product/1TS-UTK.html
http://cavfab.com/CavFab-Jeep-CrossOver-Steering-XJTJZJMJ_p_105.html

 

[ranger101]

It looks like the tie-rod/drag link were binding up there at the knuckle. That’s why there’s that big rust spot at the end of the tie rod. As long as your new setup doesn’t have that same binding I’d say you’re going to be fine.

 

[tworley]

The knuckle was reamed out as stated. For the passenger side I would get a new knuckle. If you are leaning towards the currie currectlync and depending on the size of the ream and if the driver side was also reamed out, you could install the currie steering without replacing the driver side knuckle. The good news is that the tie rod could potentially be higher (currie tie rod flip is the mod)

 

[jjvw]

The knuckle was reamed out as stated. For the passenger side I would get a new knuckle. If you are leaning towards the currie currectlync and depending on the size of the ream and if the driver side was also reamed out, you could install the currie steering without replacing the driver side knuckle. The good news is that the tie rod could potentially be higher (currie tie rod flip is the mod)

Good option. In addition to a new passenger side knuckle, the sway bar links needs to be raised, and the wheels need at least 4.5" of backspace. My knuckle insert needed a 3/4" hole. To save money up front, the flip can be done with ZJ steering, too.

I also can help but wonder if the passenger side knuckle couldn't be fixed with an insert. But that may be getting into too crude of a fix.

 

[Allstar424]

I also can help but wonder if the passenger side knuckle couldn't be fixed with an insert. But that may be getting into too crude of a fix.

Teraflex does make an insert, but I'm not sure that's the best route to go. Assuming the hole is 7/8" this would work:
https://teraflex.com/shop_items/tj-passenger-side-high-steer-kit-stock-tapered-insert-sleeve

 

[TJ Hunnicutt]

Of the two you listed, the CavFab looks like it would be a lot easier to install IF your knuckles are properly reamed out (i.e. parallel with the original holes). Bonus if they are already the size CavFab says to make them.

I am completely unfamiliar with either option so certainly could not give any personal recommendation.

 

[Hammer_c]

Old thread but it’s the Rockkrawler Xfactor steering that’s no longer made. It uses 3/4 16 TPI Heims. I ran this set up for years in a 2000 Tj with little issues beside having to replace the Heims a few times. I had zero bump steer and had no wandering at all.