Help with electrical 12 volt fridge

Plumber1

Tito's, Tacos and Trails
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So I am looking at a fridge and a bit confused on the electrical usage in the jeep

The Dometic shows this on there website

Input voltage (AC), [V]​

120

Input voltage (DC), [V]​

12/24

Rated input current (AC), [A]​

0.84A at 120V

Rated input current (DC), [A]​

8.9

The ARB Shows this

Built-in 12/24V DC and 100-240 AC power integrated battery protection system

Current Draw 0.85 amps/hour average power consumption tested at 37.4˚F cabinet temp. 78.8˚F - 87.8˚F ambient temperature range.

Test duration of 66 hours and supply voltage of 12V DC.

Is it me or am I not understanding it looks like the Dometic say s 8.9 amps when on 12 volts but ARB 0.85 amps I cant see that Dometic uses 10 times the amount of power
 
I have a Costway 54 and has served me well for 4+ years. I'm surprised it ranked well in a few categories. I have no issues with cracks, but I read about it's weakness and treat it accordingly. It looks identical to the Smittybilt and I use the insulated cover sold by SB. I'm a bit of a penny pincher or would have bought a Domestic.
 
I have the Dometic CFX375DZ Dual Zone Fridge-Freezer. It works well but definitely put a drain on your battery.
I can’t go more than a few hours in hot weather until the low voltage protection system kicks in and shuts down the fridge. If you plan to use any 12V fridge for an extended time with your vehicle off your going to need an additional battery or power supply. Currently I run my fridge full time on a Jackery 1000 and recharge the Jackery through the inverter in my Ford Raptor. Future plans call for an installation of a lithium battery.
 
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Specs you find are generally max surge and useless overall. Generally ask direct you'll get marketing bullshit. I'd test myself or find somebody that has done tests. Manufacturer data isn't much good. It's just a fuse rating they are telling you and has nothing to do with long term averages.
 
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So I am looking at a fridge and a bit confused on the electrical usage in the jeep

The Dometic shows this on there website

Input voltage (AC), [V]​

120

Input voltage (DC), [V]​

12/24

Rated input current (AC), [A]​

0.84A at 120V

Rated input current (DC), [A]​

8.9

The ARB Shows this

Built-in 12/24V DC and 100-240 AC power integrated battery protection system

Current Draw 0.85 amps/hour average power consumption tested at 37.4˚F cabinet temp. 78.8˚F - 87.8˚F ambient temperature range.


Test duration of 66 hours and supply voltage of 12V DC.

Is it me or am I not understanding it looks like the Dometic say s 8.9 amps when on 12 volts but ARB 0.85 amps I cant see that Dometic uses 10 times the amount of power

Swift Gazelle F61 2001. Can someone please describe in layman's (real) terms where exactly the fuse and the relay are for the fridge. I have a wiring diagram but that means nothing to me. Above the engine battery I have a black box with two square bits that pull out - are those relays? How do I know if they need replacing? I have a single 20A fuse floating about just by it with wires coming out of each side and then two more 20A fuses in a block with two empty spaces beneath a clear plastic cover. If anyone has the same setup can you please help me. Thank you.
 
I have a Costway 54 and has served me well for 4+ years. I'm surprised it ranked well in a few categories. I have no issues with cracks, but I read about it's weakness and treat it accordingly. It looks identical to the Smittybilt and I use the insulated cover sold by SB. I'm a bit of a penny pincher or would have bought a Domestic.

I have the same, but under a different name…

I run mine (when camping/traveling) always off of my Jackary 500, and connect the Jackary to the vehicle so it charges. When I get to camp, I’ll remove from vehicle, and connect my 120w solar panel. Doing this, I can keep food frozen for 3+ days in Florida summer… tested the cooler, and it ran 24 hours only connected to Jackary, and there was still 35% left.

in the TJ, I wired up a fused switch with a small panel volt meter to a 12v power port all in a project box… installed behind rear cage leg on drivers rear wheel well.
 
Swift Gazelle F61 2001. Can someone please describe in layman's (real) terms where exactly the fuse and the relay are for the fridge. I have a wiring diagram but that means nothing to me. Above the engine battery I have a black box with two square bits that pull out - are those relays? How do I know if they need replacing? I have a single 20A fuse floating about just by it with wires coming out of each side and then two more 20A fuses in a block with two empty spaces beneath a clear plastic cover. If anyone has the same setup can you please help me. Thank you.

A picture may help us help you.
 
If you are running it at 12v - at least mine needed a dedicated power line to the battery. 18 gauge had way too much voltage drop to keep it running.

I have a good one and a cheep one. The good one is great - but very heavy. I got a cheap chineese one by my desk (it is for the jeep technically) that has been ratting away for a year or so now. It fits my jeep a lot better (it will go under my rear sleeping platform) - and I think it was about $200.

It is not in my Jeep yet because while it does fit under the platform-I can not open the lid when it is there. Have not made a slider for it yet.
—-
as for how much power they draw, already mentioned there is surge, there is running, and then there is how often they are running. I had solar on my first overland build. My dying battery could not keep it running all night, but by 10am I would have enough solar to run it all day. It probably ran till 4am, but had enough thermal mass an insulation to not take much of a temp dive while it was idle. Especially since I did not open it during that time.
 
I would guess ARB is providing the current draw at 120V despite saying they ran the test at 12V. Try and find a comparison in watts instead. 0.85 amps at 12v is only like 10 watts - no way it is that efficient.

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ARB and Dometic's ratings are talking about two different things, but both are measured in amps (the "/hour" beside "amps" in ARB's rating is important). The difference is one is referring to draw at 12v while running and one is referring to draw at 12v over an hour period. A 12V fridge will pull around 10 watts per hour from a portable battery (more on those below).

Rated input current (DC), [A]​

8.9

This means that when the fridge is running, it draws 8.9 amps. If it drew this constantly you would need a battery rated to supply of 8.9 amp hours for every hour you wanted to run the fridge. However, the compressor cycles on and off, and will not draw nearly that much over an your. Over an hour period the dometic will likely draw about the same as the ARB:

Current Draw 0.85 amps/hour average power consumption

I've been running a 12v refrigerator with a portable battery for a couple years like Rubeyu and Artsifrtsi:

I have the Dometic CFX375DZ Dual Zone Fridge-Freezer. It works well but definitely put a drain on your battery.
I can’t go more than a few hours in hot weather until the low voltage protection system kicks in and shuts down the fridge. If you plan to use any 12V fridge for an extended time with your vehicle off your going to need an additional battery or power supply. Currently I run my fridge full time on a Jackery 1000 and recharge the Jackery through the inverter in my Ford Raptor. Future plans call for an installation of a lithium battery.

I have the same, but under a different name…

I run mine (when camping/traveling) always off of my Jackary 500, and connect the Jackary to the vehicle so it charges. When I get to camp, I’ll remove from vehicle, and connect my 120w solar panel. Doing this, I can keep food frozen for 3+ days in Florida summer… tested the cooler, and it ran 24 hours only connected to Jackary, and there was still 35% left.

in the TJ, I wired up a fused switch with a small panel volt meter to a 12v power port all in a project box… installed behind rear cage leg on drivers rear wheel well.

You don't want to use your vehicle's battery to run the fridge, it isn't designed for that type of draw. You're much better off getting a "portable power station" (sometimes called a "solar generator" as they are often used in conjunction with a portable solar panel). The ones with the newer Lithium Iron Phosphate (LiFePO4) batteries are ones to get. It will last 3x more cycles (~3000 vs ~1000) than lithium ion and is a "safer" battery tech. Jackery is one you see ads for, but they are only starting to use LiFePO4 batteries and there are other better value options. They are all advertised in watts, usually by AC inverter output such as "2000W" (with just the "W"), and then you'll see a separate rating for the battery capacity "1600Wh" (the "h" meaning hours). A device with those ratings would mean it can run an appliance that draws 2000 watts while in use, but it won't run it for an hour, as it only has 1600 watt hours of capacity. There are losses in the AC inverter as well so its not an exact conversion, but you won't be using the inverters for the fridge as you'll plug it into the 12V outlet on the power station. As a rough idea, you'll want 300-350 Wh of advertised capacity for every 24 hours you want to run the fridge without charging the battery, depending on the environmental temp you're working against. If you're running your vehicle every day for a several hours, and you pick one with a good charge speed, you might only need a 300Wh unit.

Ditching the cooler/ice when camping is simply amazing. The portable battery and fridge take up about the same space, so you don't need as large a fridge as you would a cooler (interior volume) as you don't need to leave room for ice. You also don't need to keep all the drinks cold for the weekend which cuts down on needed volume. Pull a cold drink out, put a warm one in, with a few as a "buffer".

What I think is the best part, when you get home you're not throwing away drowned food you had left swimming in the bottom of the cooler. Just put everything back in the fridge at home.

Dometic and ARB are big names and make good products. These fridges pretty much live and die by the refrigerant compressor, and there are other companies that use the same compressors as the big names for less dollars.

If you want to dive deep into the rabbit hole of 12v fridges, portable batteries, and the solar panels to charge them, check out this youtube channel:
https://www.youtube.com/@Jasonoid
 
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I have a Dometic CFX3 95 and a Norcold 45. I camped and wheeled 10 days in Moab with the Norcold running off the Jeep battery, had no issues. Maybe I got lucky. Good info in this thread. I’ll be looking into it. Thanks
 
Switching from a cooler with ice to a fridge is an absolute game changer 😃

I have an early 2000s ARB fridge which is really an Engel MT45. Draw with 12v is listed as .5- 2.35a, and on an average day its right in that window.

Parked somewhere for a full day, connected to a vehicles single battery, I have had it draw the voltage down to where I needed a jump to get started. With a dual battery setup it can run for days without having to recharge.

My setup now is to have it run off the vehicle battery. And when I stop for the day I connect it to a Jackery 240 and 60w solar panel. That setup easily keeps up with the fridge even charging phones and other things.

jackery.jpg
 
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