And a hush falls over the crowd as no one knows where the gears are...
I still think you're gonna want more than 4.56 gearing on 33"s in the sand, but you do you...I'm excited to say I have the budget to make this happen now. However, I'm running into some road blocks. See below build list and questions/concerns.
Front locker
Torq locker (already own)
Yukon 3.54 and up carrier - available on Amazon for $80.
Rear Locker
Eaton 27 spline Trutrac 912A569 - available on Amazon for $532. Seems to be the cheapest and readily available but everything else seems out of stock.
Rear Axles
Since I'm keeping my spline count the same I don't have to have these to complete this process but would like to do it to get stronger axles and gain a spare set in the process. 1541H axles seem to be impossible to find in stock. Suggestions?
4.56 master kit
I was seeking the Yukon master kit but it's out everywhere. Anyone know of a comparable quality/price kit that is in stock?
Are you suggesting 488?I still think you're gonna want more than 4.56 gearing on 33"s in the sand, but you do you...
And if I'm waiting on gears and MIK, I'd be waiting for a set of Revos rather than Yukons (based on my install of 3 Yukon sets the past 2 years).
That would be my choiceI'd be waiting for a set of Revos rather than Yukons
I use Timken, Koyo and SKF and all have been solid. Just make sure you get a duplicate set if you're going to make set-up bearings (you don't want to use a different MFG bearing for a setup than the bearings you're going to use in your final install).I'm not familiar with the koyo bearings that come in the Revo kits. I'm assuming they are comparable to Timken? Lift kits for less has the 4.88 Revo kit on the shelf.
I'm paying a shop to do it. I'm a good mechanic but everytime I review the process of setting up axles I get nervous and go look at the shop prices again. Plus they have a guarantee for 5 years.I use Timken, Koyo and SKF and all have been solid. Just make sure you get a duplicate set if you're going to make set-up bearings (you don't want to use a different MFG bearing for a setup than the bearings you're going to use in your final install).
Nothing at all wrong with that, BB. Sometimes descretion is the better part of valor.I'm paying a shop to do it. I'm a good mechanic but everytime I review the process of setting up axles I get nervous and go look at the shop prices again. Plus they have a guarantee for 5 years.
I agree about the market for the 44s. I'm not doing a full blown super 35. I'm doing 27 spline 1541H shafts so I can keep the stock units as spares. I went with a truetrac in the rear and Torq locker up front. 456 ratio.I did a ton of research on all the Jeep forums before I made any mechanical upgrades to my 2002 TJ (4.0 and 32RH). After considering cost, quality and how I'm going to wheel it I went with the Revolution Super 35 Kit in the rear (uses 1541H alloy vice 4340 chromoly which I read is better because it takes the bearing riding directly on the axle better) with a Eaton e-locker. Replacing with a Dana 44, 60 or 8.8 rear end at this point in the economy was futile because it would have cost way more to buy a used axle that I have no idea its condition internally. I made sure in my 4.10 re-gear (only doing 33's) that I didn't get any china R&P gears. Tons of mainstream Jeep retailers that sell china stuff and from all I read if not U.S. made either Japanese or Korean gears are your best choice. Left the front diff open for now but later when I save up the money and wheel it a bit I will probably upgrade the front axles and another e-locker.
I'm running 33s with plans possibly going smaller. I have no plans for 35s or a taller lift in any of my plans.The beauty about jeeps is that their is so many different options you can choose to fit your budget and use but IMO your upgrade plans should have a ultimate goal in mind. What size tires you running with those 4.56 gears? I was dead set on all mechanical with a Detroit locker in the rear and a True-trac LSD up front because I didn't want to mess with either air compressors or electrical harnesses, rocker switches and having to remember to lock them in. After lengthy talks with the gear and axle shop they talked me into a rear selectable locker and open front because when making tight turns on some trails lockers both front and rear can work against your steering. So for now they said wheel it and see if I really need something up front. What made the deal easy was they happen to have a Eaton e-locker brand new in the box for a job that fell through that they gave to me for $800. Later I might think about some type of Lunchbox locker or an LSD up front but I'll have to see how my present setup works.
Everyone I talked to on here or at the gear shop suggested either 4.56 or 4.88 if I was going to stay in the 32-33 tire range. They suggest 5.13 if I had any plans of 35s. I also used a gear ratio calculator to see what my crawl speed would be at idle and at 70mph to help as well.Just curious why the 4.56 gear ratio?
4.0L with AX-15Do you have the 2.5 or 4.0 and manual or auto trans?