Hey you MTBers, let's talk

[Offline246]

Much like our "used" TJ's, there is great value to be found in used MTB's. Pinkbike.com has a great listing for bikes & parts.

 

[The shuggs]

@randy328 brought up a good point, helmets. If there is one thing to not cheap out on, it's a helmet. Even the best helmet out there isn't a guarantee that you won't get hurt, it will reduce the severity of injuries. Brains are pretty hard to replace. A good MTB helmet will have more coverage than road helmets, specifically at the back and sides. MIPS, especially if it's integrated is worth considering. But most importantly, a helmet that is comfortable, and reasonably light will be worn more often.

Used bikes can be a great deal, but I've also seen people get burnt too many times because they didn't know what to check when buying used (just like with TJs). I would recommend buying new if it's a first bike, or first in a while. It gets you out on the trails quicker, and more reliably. But when it comes time to upgrade or try a different style, then absolutely consider used.

 

[1J4FY]

X2 on a GOOD helmet. I successfully ‘tested’ my newest MIPS helmet a few weeks ago Also good advice on gloves and some butt padding

You can save money on used bikes as mentioned, but beware. There is a lot of junk out there and it seems people think their broken heaps are made of gold. The current bike shortage has really screwed with pricing. My advice when you find a bike you like, move quickly or it may be gone. My current bike wasn’t even in the shop for 24-hours when I snatched it. Other shops I went to told me it would be Sprint or Summer before they started catching up on stock.

 

[gasiorv]

I didn't read everyone's response so this may have been covered already. You really need to know what type of riding you are going to be doing.

You can basically break it down into three categories, of course this could probably be debated and is just a generalization.
*XC (long distance, mostly singletrack with some technical climbing and descending, but nothing too chunk or gnarly)
*Trail (shorter distance, mostly climbing up to go back down, downs are fun, fast, flowy, can be chunky, drops, jumps, etc..)
*Downhill (shuttle or lift to top of hill and bomb back down, most of the trails back down you would question if a normal person actually rides that shit on purpose)

*XC - hardtail - 29" most likely, 27.5" is fine. Full Suspension - shorter travel front and rear
*Trail - Full Suspension - Longer travel front and rear. More Slack front which allows you to point and shoot without much issue. You can get by with a hardtail, but you will have more fun on a longer travel full suspension.
*Downhill - Long travel, slack front end, can suck up large hits, but will be a bitch to pedal uphill.

I ride a 29+ hardtail with a 140mm travel front fork and most of my riding is what I would consider a mixture of XC and Trail riding. I usually do 4+ hour rides over singletrack and I love technical rocky descents and will climb up multiple times to hit a sweet flowing trail back down. I am typically riding with others on shorter travel full suspension bikes and we are all mostly into more endurance type riding and events; however, I do ride with a few friends who are on longer travel bikes and jump off of anything that we come across.

The frame geometry is critical as far as how it reacts and feels. However, the real money and weight savings is in the wheels and fork. Buy the lightest and best wheels and fork that you can afford. But a good set of rolling tires and set them up tubeless.

I am not a big fan of 27.5 or 27.5+ hardtails, I would rather have the 29 or 29+ on a hardtail because the 29" seems to roll better; however, I have a friend with a 27.5 hardtail running 2.6" wide tires and he loves it and has no problem keeping up on the flats or climbs and he has a blast on the descents. I believe he is running a Fox Fork set up at 130mm.

 

[qslim]

am not a big fan of 27.5 or 27.5+ hardtails, I would rather have the 29 or 29+ on a hardtail because the 29" seems to roll better; however, I have a friend with a 27.5 hardtail running 2.6" wide tires and he loves it and has no problem keeping up on the flats or climbs and he has a blast on the descents. I believe he is running a Fox Fork set up at 130mm.

I really enjoy my 27.5 hardtail for the tight twisty technical stuff, it's nice & light, super easy to flick around. I much prefer my full suspension 29 for rocks, bumps, & extended riding.

 

[CybrSlydr]

Would it be better to buy a frame and part it together myself?

 

[randy328]

Would it be better to buy a frame and part it together myself?

I would say no. Stick to one already built for a starter. The Roscoe 8 you were looking at is a great bike.

 

[The shuggs]

I would say no. Stick to one already built for a starter. The Roscoe 8 you were looking at is a great bike.

I second this, it'll be more expensive, and navigating all the different standards can be a nightmare for even an experienced individual.

 

[gasiorv]

As stated, it is cheaper to buy a complete bike. The Roscoe 8 appears to be a decent build. Once you get to riding and you determine that you will keep riding, you will find out what you want to upgrade and then when when you break or wear an item out, just upgrade then.
i would recommend going tubeless and getting a good set of pedals and shoes ASAP. I have been riding clipless for 25+ years and I recently tried to ride flats and believe me a good set of pedals and a good set of shoes that have a flat sole and grip will save your shins.

Check out Trailforks for trails near you.

When/If you do go to buy a bike rack, check out the 1UP, they are very expensive but well worth the money.

 

[Rec_Rider]

As stated, it is cheaper to buy a complete bike. The Roscoe 8 appears to be a decent build. Once you get to riding and you determine that you will keep riding, you will find out what you want to upgrade and then when when you break or wear an item out, just upgrade then.
i would recommend going tubeless and getting a good set of pedals and shoes ASAP. I have been riding clipless for 25+ years and I recently tried to ride flats and believe me a good set of pedals and a good set of shoes that have a flat sole and grip will save your shins.

Check out Trailforks for trails near you.

When/If you do go to buy a bike rack, check out the 1UP, they are very expensive but well worth the money.

Agreed that tubeless is the way to go but carry and extra tube in case you get a cut. I only ride clipless as well but I don't do extreme downhills. I couldn't imagine doing long technical climbs without them.

 

[qslim]

Agreed that tubeless is the way to go but carry and extra tube in case you get a cut. I only ride clipless as well but I don't do extreme downhills. I couldn't imagine doing long technical climbs without them.

I went tubeless this spring and absolutely love it. Took me about 30 mins.

 

[DoOver]

I didn't read everyone's response so this may have been covered already. You really need to know what type of riding you are going to be doing.

You can basically break it down into three categories, of course this could probably be debated and is just a generalization.
*XC (long distance, mostly singletrack with some technical climbing and descending, but nothing too chunk or gnarly)
*Trail (shorter distance, mostly climbing up to go back down, downs are fun, fast, flowy, can be chunky, drops, jumps, etc..)
*Downhill (shuttle or lift to top of hill and bomb back down, most of the trails back down you would question if a normal person actually rides that shit on purpose)

*XC - hardtail - 29" most likely, 27.5" is fine. Full Suspension - shorter travel front and rear
*Trail - Full Suspension - Longer travel front and rear. More Slack front which allows you to point and shoot without much issue. You can get by with a hardtail, but you will have more fun on a longer travel full suspension.
*Downhill - Long travel, slack front end, can suck up large hits, but will be a bitch to pedal uphill.

I ride a 29+ hardtail with a 140mm travel front fork and most of my riding is what I would consider a mixture of XC and Trail riding. I usually do 4+ hour rides over singletrack and I love technical rocky descents and will climb up multiple times to hit a sweet flowing trail back down. I am typically riding with others on shorter travel full suspension bikes and we are all mostly into more endurance type riding and events; however, I do ride with a few friends who are on longer travel bikes and jump off of anything that we come across.

The frame geometry is critical as far as how it reacts and feels. However, the real money and weight savings is in the wheels and fork. Buy the lightest and best wheels and fork that you can afford. But a good set of rolling tires and set them up tubeless.

I am not a big fan of 27.5 or 27.5+ hardtails, I would rather have the 29 or 29+ on a hardtail because the 29" seems to roll better; however, I have a friend with a 27.5 hardtail running 2.6" wide tires and he loves it and has no problem keeping up on the flats or climbs and he has a blast on the descents. I believe he is running a Fox Fork set up at 130mm.

What frame are you using? I have a Mach 429 trail but, I miss my hard tail. Most of the trails around me are perfect for hard tails. Search Bond Fire and that’s where I used to ride (before today). Thinking of building one and would appreciate insight from someone with experience.