B00mb00m
The Church of Cutting Brakes of Atlas-Front Digs
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Ah so he is now just doing AN3 fittings and the nuts use sleeves??. So confused on fittings... Will go back to reading.
High travel, high clearance & high octane, a streetable adventure LJ story
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B00mb00m
The Church of Cutting Brakes of Atlas-Front Digs
Supporting Member
Ride of the Month Winner
MASTERCOOL 72475-PRC Blue and Silver Universal Hydraulic Flaring Tool Set with Tube Cutter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NCYKQSN/?tag=wranglerorg-20
This looks like a good option for flaring also for nearly same price. Did you find anytime you wish you had ability to flare on the vehicle? The hydraulic one would make it possible to flare in place when needed.
They have an add-on for 37deg.
This looks like a good option for flaring also for nearly same price. Did you find anytime you wish you had ability to flare on the vehicle? The hydraulic one would make it possible to flare in place when needed.
They have an add-on for 37deg.
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I have and use the MC purely so I can easily flare on the vehicle with both 45 and 37 degree dies.
It doesn't make any sense to convert back and forth from inverted flare to -3 AN male and female.
Start at the shortened line out of the combo block that goes to one of the front brake lines.
1st fitting at firewall, then in order down to the calipers.
-3 tube nut and sleeve on original hard line cut and flared.
-3 male bulkhead coupling in a tab at firewall right above control arm
-3 female swivel x -3 female swivel S/S flex hose from bulkhead couple to T at diff.
-3 male bulkhead T
To left and right sides -3 tube nut and sleeve for hard line.
hard line to each side near caliper hooked onto a -3 male bulkhead coupling mounted in a tab near the inner C
Short -3 female swivel x -3 female swivel flex hose from coupling to -3 male x 10mm banjo adapter on caliper.
That way everything winds up -3, no adapting, parts at caliper are modular. If you damage a banjo, replace it. Damage a flex line, just replace it.
OP
I fully bent up my lines and then removed them to flare but if you can still get a high quality flare on the Jeep that could save a step.
OP
Here's some of Blaine's work showing the -3 AN fitting bulkheads. Once you get in some parts I think it'll start making sense.
I do the same but once in awhile we have to cut and flare the long line along the frame to the rear brakes. I'm not removing that one.
OP
Once it's bundled in I agree. Having the opportunity to do a full build like I'm doing makes things like that significantly easier to do as long as it's done first.
OP
At full bump and articulation my tires go so high that they'd crash through the stock fenders and hood. To prevent this from happening I chose Genright aluminum fenders. The aluminum offers welcome weight savings over steel and are lighter than factory.
I figured out a way to make a perfect cut on the hood with no guesswork.
First mount the both fenders in their final positions. Take your time and do this right. Since my 37" tires will still be pushing into the flare by about 1/2" at full articulation I mounted the tub side on the higher end of the highline mark of the tub to get the most out of them and then aligned the front to the grill. Additionally, tighten down the center grill body mount and grill support rods. It's disappointing that Genright doesn't make the radius perfect where it meets the grill — I could slide a small stack of business cards between them.
Now put tape on the grill and tub and make a mark where the top of the fender is (needs to be the highest point). Take a laser level and line it up so that it draws a line between both of those markings and it should put the laser line straight across the top of the fender. This laser line will mark where you need to cut the hood.
Unless you have 2 lasers you'll have to repeat the steps above for the other side after cutting the first.
Remove both fenders leaving the grill supports tight and close the hood. There's 2 rubber bumpers on the bottom side of the hood that need to be in contact with the grill. Remove the spring from the hood and/or have a friend hold the hood down firmly. Check the gap between the hood and the grill is even. With the friend still holding down the hood put tape along the side of the hood where you will be cutting and trace the laser line onto the tape.
Cut off the bottom of the hood. I used a cut off wheel on an angle grinder which created some heat so I had to move quickly so the heat wouldn't mess up the paint. I found that making the cut in a single pass made the smoothest line but don't worry at this step if you mess up, it's the "practice" cut.
Repeat the cut on the other side and mount both fenders back up to their correct alignment. Both of mine aren't exactly the same cuts, even if you look at a clean TJ the hoods don't sit perfectly symmetrical on them either.
If the hood rubs the fender when closed use a flap disc to remove just enough to slide a sheet of paper between the fenders and hood. Remember, this is practice so don't worry if you cut a little too much off.
Replace the tape with fresh and run a marker with a 1/2" body along the top of the fenders so you have a straight line on the hood 1/4" off the fender. This is the final cut line.
After making the final cut I removed the burr on the bottom edge of the hood by hand so that I wouldn't remove too much material. If any of the paint is damaged sand that off with finer sandpaper. I got some music playing and enjoyed cleaning it up for the next few hours.
When the bottom of the hood is removed the spot welds holding the front hood brace onto the hood are also removed and allow the rubber bumpers to move in. To firm it up I used 3M Rigid Piller foam. It's pricey stuff and requires a special "double barrel caulk gun" to use but I haven't seen anything else like it for cheaper. I already had the tool from working with body panel adhesive and seam sealer. The foam is runny when it first comes out so seal the gap with duct tape and leave only a small hole for the tip of the mixing tool end to fit in. Also put down something over your engine and fenders in case it leaks out.
I got a little excited on the first side and used too much. You only need somewhere between 1/8 and 1/4 of the tube per side to just get enough in that it expands past the indentation of the support (see arrow in picture below).
Let the foam cure over night with pressure removed from the crossmember.
The next part is the retaining latches, the factory OEM latches with the rubber is best since it allows the hood to move with the body just like it was designed to from the factory.
The bottom piece has a bump that recesses into the factory fender this needs to be cut out so it sits flush to the fender.
OEM fender mounting holes:
Figure out where you want the latch along the hood, measure carefully, and drill the 3 holes into the fender.
Fasten the lower latch piece to the fender. This will allow you to position the top onto the hood. For right now loosely place the oval hood to fender spacer to gap the hood. There should be a slight gap between the 2 hard pieces of the latch assembly with the hood fully closed. Align the pieces, mark and drill the hood. And bolt everything together and repeat for the other side.
Test your latches to make sure everything is working properly. The latches should be just as easy to use as from the factory.
Lastly, place the hood to fender spacer, mark and drill for it. This will hold the hood to the 1/4" gap. Because I couldn't fit mine in the same direction as factory I rotated it perpendicular to the hood.
I used touch up paint to prevent rust.
I figured out a way to make a perfect cut on the hood with no guesswork.
First mount the both fenders in their final positions. Take your time and do this right. Since my 37" tires will still be pushing into the flare by about 1/2" at full articulation I mounted the tub side on the higher end of the highline mark of the tub to get the most out of them and then aligned the front to the grill. Additionally, tighten down the center grill body mount and grill support rods. It's disappointing that Genright doesn't make the radius perfect where it meets the grill — I could slide a small stack of business cards between them.
Now put tape on the grill and tub and make a mark where the top of the fender is (needs to be the highest point). Take a laser level and line it up so that it draws a line between both of those markings and it should put the laser line straight across the top of the fender. This laser line will mark where you need to cut the hood.
Unless you have 2 lasers you'll have to repeat the steps above for the other side after cutting the first.
Remove both fenders leaving the grill supports tight and close the hood. There's 2 rubber bumpers on the bottom side of the hood that need to be in contact with the grill. Remove the spring from the hood and/or have a friend hold the hood down firmly. Check the gap between the hood and the grill is even. With the friend still holding down the hood put tape along the side of the hood where you will be cutting and trace the laser line onto the tape.
Cut off the bottom of the hood. I used a cut off wheel on an angle grinder which created some heat so I had to move quickly so the heat wouldn't mess up the paint. I found that making the cut in a single pass made the smoothest line but don't worry at this step if you mess up, it's the "practice" cut.
Repeat the cut on the other side and mount both fenders back up to their correct alignment. Both of mine aren't exactly the same cuts, even if you look at a clean TJ the hoods don't sit perfectly symmetrical on them either.
If the hood rubs the fender when closed use a flap disc to remove just enough to slide a sheet of paper between the fenders and hood. Remember, this is practice so don't worry if you cut a little too much off.
Replace the tape with fresh and run a marker with a 1/2" body along the top of the fenders so you have a straight line on the hood 1/4" off the fender. This is the final cut line.
After making the final cut I removed the burr on the bottom edge of the hood by hand so that I wouldn't remove too much material. If any of the paint is damaged sand that off with finer sandpaper. I got some music playing and enjoyed cleaning it up for the next few hours.
When the bottom of the hood is removed the spot welds holding the front hood brace onto the hood are also removed and allow the rubber bumpers to move in. To firm it up I used 3M Rigid Piller foam. It's pricey stuff and requires a special "double barrel caulk gun" to use but I haven't seen anything else like it for cheaper. I already had the tool from working with body panel adhesive and seam sealer. The foam is runny when it first comes out so seal the gap with duct tape and leave only a small hole for the tip of the mixing tool end to fit in. Also put down something over your engine and fenders in case it leaks out.
I got a little excited on the first side and used too much. You only need somewhere between 1/8 and 1/4 of the tube per side to just get enough in that it expands past the indentation of the support (see arrow in picture below).
Let the foam cure over night with pressure removed from the crossmember.
The next part is the retaining latches, the factory OEM latches with the rubber is best since it allows the hood to move with the body just like it was designed to from the factory.
The bottom piece has a bump that recesses into the factory fender this needs to be cut out so it sits flush to the fender.
OEM fender mounting holes:
Figure out where you want the latch along the hood, measure carefully, and drill the 3 holes into the fender.
Fasten the lower latch piece to the fender. This will allow you to position the top onto the hood. For right now loosely place the oval hood to fender spacer to gap the hood. There should be a slight gap between the 2 hard pieces of the latch assembly with the hood fully closed. Align the pieces, mark and drill the hood. And bolt everything together and repeat for the other side.
Test your latches to make sure everything is working properly. The latches should be just as easy to use as from the factory.
Lastly, place the hood to fender spacer, mark and drill for it. This will hold the hood to the 1/4" gap. Because I couldn't fit mine in the same direction as factory I rotated it perpendicular to the hood.
I used touch up paint to prevent rust.
B00mb00m
The Church of Cutting Brakes of Atlas-Front Digs
Supporting Member
Ride of the Month Winner
I like the laser level for hood line, great application!
Did you go with zinc plated bulkhead fittings to avoid galling or just use a little antisieze?
Did you go with zinc plated bulkhead fittings to avoid galling or just use a little antisieze?
OP
Both. Also note that AN fittings seal on the face and not the threads.
OP
Thanks for asking! Lots of updates actually. I've been all consumed with finishing my build and haven't had the time to write. But I will be sure to cover everything once I do!
I'm days away from finishing and starting it up. Then it comes (a little bit) apart again to tune shocks and get some work done on my steering box.
It's likely I'll have an update later this week or next once things settle down.
I’m gonna have to go and read this build. I just found it. From skimming looks amazing.
I’ve Been using soldering connectors for my wiring harness. They have the solder in a ring and you apply a heat gun. Melts the solder and heat shrink.
I’ve Been using soldering connectors for my wiring harness. They have the solder in a ring and you apply a heat gun. Melts the solder and heat shrink.
OP
I am using Genright's inner fender to keep junk out of my engine bay and to mount stuff on inside. To be honest, Genright's fenders are a really bad design. They don't puzzle together well, the rear most hole in the fender doesn't even line up with the inner fender, they have holes that don't make sense how they're supposed to be used, etc. The only thing worse than the fenders are the instructions. There's nothing straight forward about them and you need to figure out what works for you. But once you make them work they'll function just fine.
Because my hoop is in the middle of it, I traced the inner fender onto a large cardboard sheet and cut around where the hoop is. I started at the grill and worked my way back.
The fenders and frame move independently and a lot so I left about a 3/8" gap between the fender liner and the hoops. The steering bracket also needed to be notched around.
I cut the top piece enough to install and fit the coilover in and then I cycled the suspension and traced around where the coil will move out to (plus a little extra). I made a template so both fenders would match giving an extra 3/8" gap.
At the bottom of the fender I had noticed that my antisway bar had been rubbing at full bump so I cut the bottom few inches off and repeated on the other side so they match.
So that I can line up both fenders exactly the same every time they are installed I made a small mark on the grill that is covered up when the fender is installed.
Instead of using the supplied rivets to attach the inner fender to the outer fender I drilled and tapered the holes for #6 flat head screws with serrated nuts on the underside. By using a phillips head I'm able to apply more torque without stripping tiny hexes.
I oversized the holes on the inner where the hood bumpers go so that the material wouldn't be too thick for them to attach to. And cut around where the latch bolts down.
Because my hoop is in the middle of it, I traced the inner fender onto a large cardboard sheet and cut around where the hoop is. I started at the grill and worked my way back.
The fenders and frame move independently and a lot so I left about a 3/8" gap between the fender liner and the hoops. The steering bracket also needed to be notched around.
I cut the top piece enough to install and fit the coilover in and then I cycled the suspension and traced around where the coil will move out to (plus a little extra). I made a template so both fenders would match giving an extra 3/8" gap.
At the bottom of the fender I had noticed that my antisway bar had been rubbing at full bump so I cut the bottom few inches off and repeated on the other side so they match.
So that I can line up both fenders exactly the same every time they are installed I made a small mark on the grill that is covered up when the fender is installed.
Instead of using the supplied rivets to attach the inner fender to the outer fender I drilled and tapered the holes for #6 flat head screws with serrated nuts on the underside. By using a phillips head I'm able to apply more torque without stripping tiny hexes.
I oversized the holes on the inner where the hood bumpers go so that the material wouldn't be too thick for them to attach to. And cut around where the latch bolts down.
How does genright address the battery tray location? Do they provide a slimmer mount/bracket like my MC fenders or does it require relocating the battery?
OP
Very poorly. I'll be posting it up within an hour or two. Currently writing!