High travel, high clearance & high octane, a streetable adventure LJ story

[toximus]

Let's take a moment to talk about keeping focus on the end goal and reality.

You guys may have noticed that I only installed 1 washer fluid pump. I've strongly considered keeping my hard top since I prefer it for daily driving and in the winter. However I've come to realize that I really don't want to get this Jeep salted up daily all winter long after how much work I've put into it. I'll drive through salt to get to trails but for going to the grocery store that seems pointless. I also can't find a decent snow tire in a 37. My wife's Jeep is setup very well for winter adventures and snow wheeling so I can see taking it on trips more often during that season.

On wheeling trips I'll almost always want the soft top on for the weight savings and in case I put the top against a tree/rock it's easier to drive home with a bent soft top than a cracked hard top.

This also ventures into other areas of my build. I had been planning an elaborate shallow fuel cell so the Jeep could still be filled with the hard top on, but if I'm only going to be using the soft top I don't see a benefit of spending a lot more time and money to do that. It also will make shock tuning more practical since I won't be varying the weight much.

So on that note, I'm only building for the soft top. I'm leaving the wiring harness in tact for the hard top should I ever change my mind, but it's tied to the side.

 

[toximus]

At full bump the upper control arm has been hitting the lower radiator hose I think it's a matter of time before it'll wear through. I tried modifying it to clear but ended up cutting too much off one end and needed to start over. The solution would have been to remove the 45* bend in the middle of the hose. My research found that there's many variants of the TJ 4.0L hose from the factory and aftermarket, instead of gambling on what I'd get and if it'd work I bought silicone hose sections from Pegasus Auto Racing to make my own.

Shopping list:

1 3/4 x 1 1/2 inch Straight Reducer: https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=11161
1 1/2" I.D. 90 degree Elbow, 6" Legs: https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=20708
Black Silicone Hose, 1 1/2" I.D. 45 degree Elbow, 6" Legs: https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=20686
(Qty 2) 38mm (1 1/2 inch) Pegasus Pro Design Aluminum Hose Joiner: https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=25712
(Qty 4) Lined Hose Clamp, 1.31 to 2.25 inch diameter: https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection.asp?Product=3613
(Qty 4) 1/2" Rubber Hose Clamp Jacket: https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection.asp?Product=3615

I used the OEM internal spring to prevent the hose from collapsing and the OEM constant tension clamps on both ends.

 

[toximus]

Since the end is in sight I started thinking through my final checklist. 2 years ago (0 miles ago) I know I changed the oil since I had replaced the engine oil pan. The weather is getting cold here and I can't remember if I put in 5w30 synthetic (what I use in the winter) or 10w30 (what I use in the summer) so I'll have to change the oil once I get to the point of doing overnight trips. What I can't remember is if I had changed the filter at the same time or how many miles would be on it. While I had the fenders off I changed the filter out and poured a little fresh oil into the top end to make sure everything would be well lubricated after sitting for so long.

 

[toximus]

Something I've enjoyed about getting everything in place under the hood is that I don't need a big chunk of time to work on it. Even if I have 15 minutes I have something I can do. Or if I'm waiting for something to come in I've still got other things I can work on without derailing the other thing.

Circling back to the air filter, the silicone adapters for that came in. Also from Pegasus.

To prevent water from getting into the intake I used a 135* elbow at the end much like the factory snorkel. It's cut at an angle to prevent it from sucking onto the hood.

If water ingestion off the tires is a problem I can place rubber flaps over the innerfender cutouts where the coilovers are.

 

[toximus]

I made a custom bracket for mounting the PDC. All of the edges are rounded to prevent it from cutting into wires.

And in place:

 

[toximus]

For my aux fuse block I'm using a Blue Sea Systems SafetyHub 150. As I previously had mentioned when I was doing wiring: all non-factory circuits will be run off of this block.

The block is mounted on 3/16" aluminum plate to prevent the contacts from moving and touching the metal fender should a rock move or dent the fender. I do have some concerns about arcing so I will be placing a spacer under the block made of UHMW (non-conductive plastic).

 

[toximus]

I replaced all of my OEM battery cables with new from Custom Battery Cables and ordered custom cables for my fuse blocks.

I basically ordered their TJ kit for military terminals with slight adjustments to the lengths due to my relocated parts and larger fuseable link for my alternator. I also requested all of my cables be marine grade so they'd be self extinguishing (I'm not entirely sure if this would help stop an electrical fire from happening or not. Anyone know?). They up size the cables compared to factory which I'd actually suggest not doing when working on an already crammed build... ...but I made them fit.

If your factory cables are still in good shape an alternative solution is to crimp lugs onto the ends so you can use military terminals on the battery.

The stud on my starter busted off when replacing that cable (notice the trend?) so I ordered a new starter to replace my otherwise perfectly good one (yay...).

The grounding stud on the engine also was frozen to the lug (awesome...). It had to be ground off and replaced with a grade 8 bolt with a stainless washer on each side to hopefully prevent that issue in the future.

To power my aux block I'm using 1/0 cable. This stuff is thick:

On the starter and alternator I have caps over the lugs/studs. It seemed like an easy safety feature to have in place should a metal part move where it's not supposed to be.

After several iterations this is the wiring layout I settled on (the ARB compressors aren't wired in for this picture):

 

[toximus]

I assembled the air lines to the lockers using -4 AN stainless steel lines (used in case they get too close to the exhaust) and replaced the control arm links with ones cut 2" longer from Summit Machine to account for my stretch. It's not entirely necessary however if I ever need to replace them in the future I'd be replacing them with this corrected longer length and if the threads on the JohnnyJoints get messed up in the meantime (they will) I'd need to also buy new JJs. The other concern is that the exposed JJ shaft is a weaker OD compared to the 7075 OD so this strengthens up those ends. So this basically saves me the hassle and expense in the long run if something happens to a link.

 

[toximus]

While my Jeep has been sitting the last 2 and a half years the brake master cylinder has drained out. I pulled it off for a bench bleed before bleeding the brakes and then bleed the brakes. Because I have brand new dry lines and calipers I think the brake fluid ended up getting aerated and a little foamy looking. I did a second bleed after letting it sit for a day which cleared more air out.

The method I used for bleeding brakes was taught to me by non-other than the wizard of brakes himself:

Modern masters like are in the TJ do not respond well to the 3 pump and hold method. All that does is aerate the fluid more than just a single pump with the bleeder already open. And, you don't have to take my word for it. Do it with clear tubing and after a couple of those, watch the fluid. You'll see all the tiny bubbles in it. Has to do with how the fluid gets into the bore from the reservoir. Always open the bleed screw first, have helper push the pedal down ALL THE WAY with some enthusiasm. We are trying to use some turbulence to try and flush as much crap out of the caliper bore as possible.

Even with the single pump with the screw open, that still gets some small bubbles in the fluid which we go back and get out with a couple of bleeds at each corner the next day. Also, any bleeding needs to be done with the key on and parking brake off so watch the dash light for the brakes. If it turns on, close the bleeder, pump the pedal until it goes off and start again with the bleeding.

 

[jjvw]

... and replaced the control arm links with ones cut 2" longer from Summit Machine to account for my stretch. It's not entirely necessary however if I ever need to replace them in the future I'd be replacing them with this corrected longer length and if the threads on the JohnnyJoints get messed up in the meantime (they will) I'd need to also buy new JJs. The other concern is that the exposed JJ shaft is a weaker OD compared to the 7075 OD so this strengthens up those ends. So this basically saves me the hassle and expense in the long run if something happens to a link.

View attachment 125130

Did you even get a reliable answer for the minimum thread engagement into the arms?

 

[toximus]

Did you even get a reliable answer for the minimum thread engagement into the arms?

Yes, it's fine. The minimum engagement needed is the width of the jam nuts. That's for them to be retained. If you're bashing them (which includes the upper) the aluminum is more likely to crack and the JJ shafts to bend.

 

[BuildBreakRepeat]

It's fine. The minimum engagement needed is the width of the jam nuts. That's for them to be retained. If you're bashing them (which includes the upper) the aluminum is more likely to crack and the JJ shafts to bend.

I didn’t really understand why aluminum was used until I held my savvy arms in hand and realized how heavy solid 2” aluminum stock is...I wonder how they handle impact as opposed to 1/4” wall dom

 

[toximus]

I plumbed and installed the coolers for my transmission and steering.

I had previously installed a different cooler. I decided to replace it with different coolers which should cool more appropriately especially now that I've supercharged my engine I'll be putting more heat into my transmission (I hadn't tested the previously coolers so I can't speak scientifically here).

The steering cooler is a Derale 13253 cooler mounted in Black Magic Brake's V-brace mount and for the transmission I'm using a Setrab 53-10748-01.

To mount the Setrab I welded 2 flat bars to the grill support V.

I cut and snapped off the section of fins on the steering cooler to get it over the V:

On the OEM radiator I replaced the factory 5/8-16 fitting adapters with Summit part number SUM-220667B to adapt to -6 AN.

I used Aeroquip socketless for all of these low pressure hoses.

I'm not into gimmicks, but the Koultools EZ-On Hose Press made fitting all sizes of hoses on a breeze. I lubed them with power steering or transmission fluid before pressing.

To splice in my transmission temp sensor I used a tee and had to use a 1/4 NPT to 1/8 NPT reducer. I accidentally over did it and broke the hex off. To save my mistake and not have to rebuy expensive fittings I ground the rest off and rolled with it.

Checking to make sure everything clears:

 

[mrblaine]

I didn’t really understand why aluminum was used until I held my savvy arms in hand and realized how heavy solid 2” aluminum stock is...I wonder how they handle impact as opposed to 1/4” wall dom

It takes about 13,500 lbs of force to just bend a 12" long piece of 2" x .250 wall DOM
It takes 16,200 for the same size 4130.
It takes 18,800 to just bend 7075 T6.

The .250 wall steel tube weighs 4.6 pounds per foot.
The 2.0 solid aluminum weighs 3.7 pounds per foot.

 

[BuildBreakRepeat]

It takes about 13,500 lbs of force to just bend a 12" long piece of 2" x .250 wall DOM
It takes 16,200 for the same size 4130.
It takes 18,800 to just bend 7075 T6.

The .250 wall steel tube weighs 4.6 pounds per foot.
The 2.0 solid aluminum weighs 3.7 pounds per foot.

Simple. Thanks Mr. Blaine!

 

[toximus]

My supercharger previously nicked the engine coolant res hose so I replaced and rerouted it.

I had hoped to fill my radiator with water only to save a few bucks before flushing but since we're getting into freezing temps I decided to use mixed coolant instead just to play it safe if the garage were to freeze or my Jeep not start on the side of the road.

I hooked up a funnel (Lisle 24680) because once I start the engine I'm going to have enough fluids to worry about topping off that I don't want to have to worry about engine coolant too.

 

[toximus]

It takes about 13,500 lbs of force to just bend a 12" long piece of 2" x .250 wall DOM

I suspect the required force would be lower if the force were applied at a single point so as to dent the tubing like smacking a rock offroad?

 

[BuildBreakRepeat]

I suspect the required force would be lower if the force were applied at a single point so as to dent the tubing like smacking a rock offroad?

Yes impulse (or the measurement of force applied to a area very fast) could probably dent the tube much easier than the force measurements used by Mr. Blaine - which I assume are accurate but apply to non-shock loads. Impulse is where ductile materials fair better as they deform instead of shatter.

 

[toximus]

I replaced the pulley on the power steering pump with a size smaller.

Between replacing that and the alternator my existing 117.75" belt would no longer fit. I hunted down belts a few sizes smaller and thanks to @Steel City 06 I landed on a super rare Dayco 5061159 belt. I had to special order it through a Dayco retailer directly from the manufacture — no warehouses stock this belt. If I stick with this belt size I'm going to have to order several spares just in case they stop making them.

 

[mrblaine]

Yes impulse (or the measurement of force applied to a area very fast) could probably dent the tube much easier than the force measurements used by Mr. Blaine - which I assume are accurate but apply to non-shock loads. Impulse is where ductile materials fair better as they deform instead of shatter.

I suspect the required force would be lower if the force were applied at a single point so as to dent the tubing like smacking a rock offroad?

Shit like this is why I fully regret answering stuff sometimes. It doesn't fucking matter. You have numbers that you can use to compare the various strengths of different materials. I'm not going to go find a god damn rock and start hitting chunks of fucking tube with it at various god damn speeds to figure out which color rock with what fucking shape will hurt a lower control arm in 3 types of material. One is clearly more resistant to bending with less weight than the other two. That is all that matters. The force was applied in the middle. If you move it 3.2875 millimeters away from center, that will affect the numbers to. Do we really need to get a millimeter by millimeter force calculator away from center to figure this shit out? Really???