Having front and rear antisway bars makes a big difference on road and off road with weight transfer and overall stability. I think they are mandatory, not optional.
Because there is so much articulation and the track bar pushes the front axle so far over, the 3/8" TJ style antirock arms will bend, the nut will catch on the frame, and they'll start ripping things part. So the solution is to use the thicker 3/4" antirock arms such as from a rear application.
Front TJ AR arm vs 3/4" AR arm:
The issue with the thicker arms is that they don't clear the steering box bolt heads. To remedy this I needed to recess the bolt heads inside the frame.
I bought 2ft of each 1-1/4" OD 0.188 wall, and 7/8" OD 0.188 wall DOM tubing (reusing the stock mount tubing would also work). And 7/16"-14 x 4" alloy socket head bolts (it turns out that grade 8 hex head bolts would work just as well and be cheaper).
I cut the 1-1/4" OD tubing to 1.5" lengths and the 7/8 OD tubing to 2.68" lengths. I then lightly reamed the 1-1/4" OD tubing to an ID of just under 7/8" on one end. I then press fit them to 3.68" in total length to match the factory length and welded them together. These are the new steering gear box mounts.
I created a jig by taking 1/4" plate and clamping it to the frame, I then center punched the holes, removed the plate, and drilled them out to 1/2". I then replaced one mount at a time and welded 7/16" nuts to the plate centered on the holes as I replaced the mounts.
To cut the old ones out of the frame I inserted 1/2" OD 0.120 wall tubing into the old tubing to center a hole saw mandrel around it.
I dislike that they require a proprietary attachment mandrel, but I did find that the carbide hole saws from Diablo work great.
For the inboard side I used a 1-1/16" hole saw which the ID of the saw matches the OD of the mount. For the outboard side I used a 1-1/4" hole saw to match the OD of the new tubing.
When I was working on the khaki TJ a few months ago, I had to remove the steering linkages and track bar to drill a hole. After that project I bought a Milwaukee 12v right angle drill and small 12v drill to make it easier to drill in tight spaces. The right angle drill fit into the forward most mount. The other option is to just size up your hole saw and cut it at a slight angle. This was my first real project with this little drill, the feed rate is slow but all in all I'm impressed and will be keeping it.
I bolted the new mount to the plate and welded it to the frame. And repeated for the next 2.
I bolted the steering box back in to double check my work.