How good is a Savvy / Currie lift really?

[astjp2]

I'll stick with what mrblaine uses and I did follow his recommendation to use anti-seize (not liberally but conservatively).

After having to remove thousands of galled stainless screws, no such thing as just enough or conservative…they need to be dripping with it…I hate engineers who spec stainless and especially stainless on stainless, most horrible thing to ever have to disassemble. Most stainless hardware is softer than grade 8 and a good passivated zinc will last decades.

 

[L J]

After having to remove thousands of galled stainless screws, no such thing as just enough or conservative…they need to be dripping with it…

To each his own. That hasn't been my experience but we live in different climates.

I hate engineers who spec stainless and especially stainless on stainless, most horrible thing to ever have to disassemble.

What are your thoughts about stainless on aluminum on zinc?

 

[mrblaine]

Stainless…ugh, I will stick with zinc. But my experience with stainless is less than ideal. All grades of stainless can gall if antisieze is not liberally used.

Not sure why you keep doing this and forgetting that I do know exactly what I am doing. Quality stainless fasteners do not gall even without anti-seize on the threads if you use zinc plated nuts. Where you get in trouble with stainless is using stainless nuts and the worst are Nyloc style.

All those threads we see with folks having to drill off the heads to get something removed, yeah, that's zinc.

 

[mrblaine]

Most stainless hardware is softer than grade 8 and a good passivated zinc will last decades.

Post up your link to grade 8 equivalent zinc plated alloy steel flat head #4 Phillips in 5/16-18 x 1" and 1 1/4" please.

 

[Good Hope]

But, did you get a sticker?!!

LOTS of Currie stickers. I probably have 10 of various sizes from the multiple orders.

 

[BlueC]

What are your thoughts about stainless on aluminum on zinc?

No reason to leave out copper and brass. What if I want to use a stainless bolt to ground a copper wire into an aluminum trailer using brass washers and a random zinc nut that I found on the bench?

On a serious note, I've been under the impression that stainless and aluminum don't play well together, especially when in a salty, wet environment, something like a boat trailer, for example, or maybe a Ford driving on a Northeastern road in the winter. Something about electrolysis where the metals contact and nylon washers are used to separate the two. Just what I've been told and/or read, with no actual experience here.

 

[Mike_H]

No reason to leave out copper and brass. What if I want to use a stainless bolt to ground a copper wire into an aluminum trailer using brass washers and a random zinc nut that I found on the bench?

On a serious note, I've been under the impression that stainless and aluminum don't play well together, especially when in a salty, wet environment, something like a boat trailer, for example, or maybe a Ford driving on a Northeastern road in the winter. Something about electrolysis where the metals contact and nylon washers are used to separate the two. Just what I've been told and/or read, with no actual experience here.

Stainless and aluminum will corrode, badly, in a salty environment. To be fair though, zinc doesn't last very long either.

Think about an outboard motor. They have GIANT pieces of solid zinc on them, because zinc is higher on the galvanic scale than aluminum. They are sacrificial anodes. When they wear out, you replace them to protect the aluminum. Now, apply that same theory to the very, very thin layer of zinc on most fasteners. It goes away in a hurry. It would be fine, if you replaced the zinc all the time...but who does that? That is why bolts get so rusty in the Midwest and Northeast where road salt and winter is a thing.

 

[NashvilleTJ]

…

Only because you don't know what you don't know. At no point is Allen drive better in that situation.

…

Well, allen maybe better if you don’t have a #4 phillips….



I run 1/2 counter sunk allen heads in a few places on the rig - and every time I pull one I have to treat them like they are made of glass. I’ve stripped many - but have become quite proficient at welding on a nut...

Never thought about a big phillips. Learn something every day. I’ll give those a shot. Thanks for that, Blaine.

 

[srimes]

All I can say Yes it's worth the extra $$

I installed the 4" Currie Lift along with a 1" BL running 35's. I also installed the Currie Steering and it drives and performs great. I have driven a few other short arm lifted TJ's with other brands of lift kits and none ride anywhere close

View attachment 386953

View attachment 386954

View attachment 386961

So is it arms or springs that make the ride good?

j/k. Nice jeep!

 

[srimes]

btw if you don't have an electric impact driver get a manual one first. They're cheap and even better than electric on stuck screws. Get one that has PH4 bits. I rarely use mine but when I need it it's a lifesaver.

Personally, I think standard slotted handles torque better than phillips. But they aren't self-centering so kinda annoying that way.

 

[mrblaine]

Well, allen maybe better if you don’t have a #4 phillips….



I run 1/2 counter sunk allen heads in a few places on the rig - and every time I pull one I have to treat them like they are made of glass. I’ve stripped many - but have become quite proficient at welding on a nut...

Never thought about a big phillips. Learn something every day. I’ll give those a shot. Thanks for that, Blaine.

1/2 countersunk so the head sticks out a bit or 1/2" flat head screws.

 

[Plumber1]

So is it arms or springs that make the ride good?

j/k. Nice jeep!

.