How tall do jack stands need to be to cycle suspension?

I would cut the inner rear fenders but don’t want the cross bar that Genrights hoops require.

Look at my red LJ build thread. If you set it up with the bracket on the inside the forces cancel out and you don't need the bar.

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And with a supercharger the bar will not fit on the front.

You will need to have a bend in the bar to get around the SC.

I’ve been back and forth with coilovers vs just outboarding. I’ve come to the conclusion that if I’m going to relocate the front and rear towers may as well just go with coilovers.

They're a pain. You're going to end up spending more money to get the same results. But if you keep at it you can end up with slightly better results.

You won't get much out of a 2.5" coil over with that axle width. The back ones will go all the way through the frame plus another 1.5", maybe more and then you will either have to lean them back so far it will look very odd or you'll running rims with an effective back spacing of 1.5-2" by the time you get spacers on there to move the tire out.

To further illustrate this, here is a 65wms axle (or is it 64.5 in the rear? I don't remember...), 14" coilovers, 37" tires, 4" of back spacing, at full articulation. There is barely enough room for the coil to sit in there with minimal rubbing.


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Maybe I will ask Chris to call you.
I'll just tell him to get the Fox 2.0 with the DSC adjusters and go have fun. You can tell him the same thing and there is not a doubt in my mind that they will do all you need and then some. In fact, I am installing them on a TJ Unlimited with stock 44's right now just so you know this is not a "do as I say, not as I do" type thing.
 
I'll just tell him to get the Fox 2.0 with the DSC adjusters and go have fun. You can tell him the same thing and there is not a doubt in my mind that they will do all you need and then some. In fact, I am installing them on a TJ Unlimited with stock 44's right now just so you know this is not a "do as I say, not as I do" type thing.

Even for me now that I've seen what 2.0s can do with the DSCs (and now that they're available), I think I would have gone with them instead of the 2.5s. Just way easier to package and I'm not sure that I'll actually do enough high speed (aside from bumpy highways) to justify them (then again there's a lot about my Jeep that I can't justify in rational terms) Don't get me wrong, I'm happy with the 2.5s and I'm extremely happy with my build, but I would do that differently if I were starting all over because it's not worth the hassle.

If I were sticking with stock width axles and didn't ever expect to go to 37s (or didn't want to deal with that rabbit hole) I'd go with a nice 2.0x12 smoothy and build for that. That's more than enough to wheel anywhere in the country and have loads of fun.
 
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Originally I was going with Kings 2.5 with adjusters and outboarding the rears and raising the front towers. But the spring combination of coilovers and the fact that relocating the brackets anyway made me rethink it.

I haven’t found the pic yet the SC I will be installing takes up the area where the oem air box sits. I will keep digging so you can see what I’m talking about.
 
I thought the DSC reservoir would work on a 2.0 smooth body.

It will. Blaine and I were referring to the "2.0 with DSC" which in this case meant the coilover (I know the LJ he's talking about so I feel comfortable answering for him in this case). The 2.0 smoothy referred to the smooth body. I should have been more clear.
 
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I thought the DSC reservoir would work on a 2.0 smooth body.

Are there part numbers for that configuration or do they have to be assembled, special ordered, etc? The only adjustable 2.0's I saw were LSC-only; the DSC-equipped reservoirs only seem offered on the 2.5's...and the 2.5's are a substantial price increase.
 
I thought the DSC reservoir would work on a 2.0 smooth body.
It will. As of now or a few weeks ago, the cost to convert a smooth body shock to run them was right at or slightly higher than a coil over. The only part you keep from your 2.0 smooth body is the body itself. The DSC has to be run with a 7/8" shaft. The top cap, piston assembly, shaft, bottom cap, and shock eye have to be swapped to make it a DSC smooth body. I'm still not 100% on the length of the body being the same, but I think it is.

Essentially you take a 2.0 threaded coil over body and swap a smooth body onto it to get rid of the threads.
 
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Are there part numbers for that configuration or do they have to be assembled, special ordered, etc? The only adjustable 2.0's I saw were LSC-only; the DSC-equipped reservoirs only seem offered on the 2.5's...and the 2.5's are a substantial price increase.
Special order I believe. I haven't seen one yet but I don't spend a lot of time digging through sites trying to find them either.
 
Magnum
Here’s the pic. I have not installed it yet. It’s still sitting in the garage.
View attachment 81839
You won't get a hoop in there with any reasonable amount of up travel or overall travel. Stick with springs and shocks, get some Fox or similar with a good tune and call it a day with something like the Poly towers.

Generally, that grill support rod is not far above the top of the hoop. That or close enough that we have to tweak it around or over something to get it put back on.
 
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Even for me now that I've seen what 2.0s can do with the DSCs (and now that they're available), I think I would have gone with them instead of the 2.5s. Just way easier to package and I'm not sure that I'll actually do enough high speed (aside from bumpy highways) to justify them (then again there's a lot about my Jeep that I can't justify in rational terms) Don't get me wrong, I'm happy with the 2.5s and I'm extremely happy with my build, but I would do that differently if I were starting all over because it's not worth the hassle.

If I were sticking with stock width axles and didn't ever expect to go to 37s (or didn't want to deal with that rabbit hole) I'd go with a nice 2.0x12 smoothy and build for that. That's more than enough to wheel anywhere in the country and have loads of fun.
Agreed that the hassle isn't worth it but when you started, the DSC wasn't available on a 2.0 and we didn't know anyone that had used them even if they had been. The main reason I've never put coil overs on any of my stuff is I disliked many things about the 2.0 C/O and didn't want the expense and hassle of the 2.5's.

It wasn't until we got a set installed and tested them that they became a viable option.

The easiest way to compare the hassle other than the larger diameter that requires more room, is a 14" 2.5 C/O with 50/50 travel is the same length as a fully extended 12" 2.0.
 
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It will. As of now or a few weeks ago, the cost to convert a smooth body shock to run them was right at or slightly higher than a coil over. The only part you keep from your 2.0 smooth body is the body itself. The DSC has to be run with a 7/8" shaft. The top cap, piston assembly, shaft, bottom cap, and shock eye have to be swapped to make it a DSC smooth body. I'm still not 100% on the length of the body being the same, but I think it is.

Essentially you take a 2.0 threaded coil over body and swap a smooth body onto it to get rid of the threads.

Okay, that makes sense. So it ends up being a $335-ish coilover body-only, plus a $50 smooth body...so it should be less than $400 by the time it's done, excerpting labor. That's not bad at all, considering what you're getting...and then all you have to add is the DSC option. At first I was thinking that it would be cheaper than the 2.5's, but the coilover with the DSC is $650-ish right out of the gate...so it's similar in price. Are the 2.0's really that much easier to fit than the 2.5's?