How tall do jack stands need to be to cycle suspension?

Mo' info, direct from AccuTune:

We can do a DSC swap on 2.0” shocks with the 7/8” shaft, it just will get expensive…see below for pricing estimates:

Fox 2.0 x 12” Smoothie shock 980-02-045 $329.95
DSC reservoir assembly 810-03-000-KIT $330.00
Hose assembly 023-08-0__ $83.00
Total Per shock $742.00

OR…

Fox 2.0 x 12” Coilover w/DSC 980-06-010 $649.95
Fox 2.0 x 12 Smooth cylinder body 204-27-004-A $40.00
Total Per Shocks $689.95

For reference, I inquired about the second option; also, good response time on their part. Prices on those parts look relatively stable across the board, give or take $10 here and there.
 
Sundowner said:
Okay, that makes sense. So it ends up being a $335-ish coilover body-only, plus a $50 smooth body...so it should be less than $400 by the time it's done, excerpting labor. That's not bad at all, considering what you're getting...and then all you have to add is the DSC option. At first I was thinking that it would be cheaper than the 2.5's, but the coilover with the DSC is $650-ish right out of the gate...so it's similar in price. Are the 2.0's really that much easier to fit than the 2.5's?
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Fitment is determined by travel, diameter, tire size, axle width, and effective backspacing.
More travel means the axle swings further under articulation. The further the swing, the more room the shock needs to move between the tire and the frame.

Increase the diameter of the springs and or the diameter of the tire and the effective backspacing needs to change by moving the tire out via axle width or rim offset or both.

The shock can be leaned front or back of the tire's apex to get some more room, but only so far.

And, like I pointed out above, the ride height length of the 2.5 is more than the fully extended 2.0. More length means it is higher above the frame. To keep it off the frame under articulation and the tire off the body of the shock means it has to have less frame in the way, lean out further at the top, wider distance between the tires, or some combination thereof.
 
Sundowner said:
Mo' info, direct from AccuTune:

We can do a DSC swap on 2.0” shocks with the 7/8” shaft, it just will get expensive…see below for pricing estimates:

Fox 2.0 x 12” Smoothie shock 980-02-045 $329.95
DSC reservoir assembly 810-03-000-KIT $330.00
Hose assembly 023-08-0__ $83.00
Total Per shock $742.00

OR…

Fox 2.0 x 12” Coilover w/DSC 980-06-010 $649.95
Fox 2.0 x 12 Smooth cylinder body 204-27-004-A $40.00
Total Per Shocks $689.95

For reference, I inquired about the second option; also, good response time on their part. Prices on those parts look relatively stable across the board, give or take $10 here and there.
Click to expand...
Yep, pretty much what we came up with. The high speed adjuster needs the 7/8" shaft for the higher fluid displacement into the reservoir so it can be metered for it to be as effective as possible. (if I am understanding how it all works correctly)

Once you toss in the option of the 7/8" shaft, a normal 2.0 has few common parts.
 
I started going over it in my head, and it seemed like it could get pretty tight in there with the 2.5's...but thinking about it in three dimensions makes it seem really tight. This is why drawings (preferably in crayon) help me out so much.
 
mrblaine said:
Agreed that the hassle isn't worth it but when you started, the DSC wasn't available on a 2.0 and we didn't know anyone that had used them even if they had been.
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For sure.

mrblaine said:
The further the swing, the more room the shock needs to move between the tire and the frame.
Click to expand...

Having a 4 link rear helps "cheat" with a narrower axle or less body intrusion since the axle doesn't swing to one side.

mrblaine said:
Essentially you take a 2.0 threaded coil over body and swap a smooth body onto it to get rid of the threads.
Click to expand...

Aside from looks is there any other differences of the smooth body?
 
Sundowner said:
I started going over it in my head, and it seemed like it could get pretty tight in there with the 2.5's...but thinking about it in three dimensions makes it seem really tight. This is why drawings (preferably in crayon) help me out so much.
Click to expand...

At one point I thought I could fit 16" COs in instead of 14". Aside from other complications, there is no way I could have fit them; they would have allowed too much articulation and the tire would be rubbing. Once you actually start building and cycle the suspension 10-20 times you will start to understand how everything is effected, after cycling the suspension 100 times you start to understand how to make it fit.
 
mrblaine said:
Had to marry a gal with very small hands, eh?
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Oh, it was a choice; necessity had nothing to do with it. See, her evil twin sister's hands were actually a bit larger - and far less nimble, while we're on the subject - but I liked this one a lot better as a person, and that's not entirely based on her dexterity. Furthermore, this one likes me better than the evil twin likes me, but that might be somewhat due to me having ditched the evil twin for the good one; I don't think she's ever forgiven me for that.
 
@mrblaine Chris told me some time ago the Jeep has a TT and raised motor mounts. I don’t know if they’re 1” or more/less. The previous owner installed a teraflex 4” longarm 4 link.

Along with the engine/trans skid we’re talking about I would like to get rid of the heavy ass skid plate and go with savvy’s aluminum. But I need help knowing if it’s a direct bolt on or will it screw with anything else?

If I have time I will be meeting with Chris on Tuesday about installing the coilovers discussed above.
 
The factory motor mounts will measure about 2-2.25" from the frame side mounting surface to the center of the engine bolt. Anything more is your lift.
 
Had to wait for the wife to tell me where the paperwork was but from previous invoices they installed 1” body lift and 1” of motor lift. Unfortunately when googling the part# nothing comes up.
01005BK motor mount
04508BK body lift
 
@mrblaine

What is this?
InkedDSC_4706_LI.jpg
 
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