I appreciate all the help, have you guys had any decent luck with piecing together lifts. Rather than buying one companies whole kit, just piecing them together from companies that you may like certain things from or should I just go with a kit?
How would I find out what lift I have on my Jeep Wrangler TJ?
- Thread starter Michaelp3257
- Start date
I
l’ll have to scour the threads and see if I can find it! I appreciate your help! I’ll probably be starting a build thread after December of everything I do and plan to do with the Jeep.
The lifts on mine have always been pieced together. Though over time, the rebuilds and refinements have naturally gravitated towards certain parts that might be mistaken for a kit. Piecing together through research can be a nice pathway to understanding why the Jeep is put together the way it is.
Are there certain parts that must be bought together? Or certain parts that must be installed together? I assume once the actual lift goes in that the drive shaft and SYE as well as the control arms have to go in as well.
I guess a better example might be-can I buy say the front control arms separate than buying all the adjustables at once?
Yes, I personally think that in most cases piecing a lift together is the way to go. I've bought a number of kits, but I often find that while one kit is near perfect (i.e. Currie), I find that it's missing something I'd rather have (i.e., the Currie kit doesn't come with double adjustable control arms for all of the arms, which I've found to be a very useful feature of control arms).
Adjustable control arms and track bars can happen earlier and at lower heights. The SYE and double cardan rear drive shaft need to happen together and both require adjustable arms.
Bump stops are largely dependent on the specific tires and shocks.
Shocks are largely decided by a combination of lift height and available clearances for wheel travel.
Axle gearing is specific to the tire size and transmission.
In the earlier stages, most parts from different brands can be mixed and matched fairly well. Though, track bars and diff covers are common trouble areas for people. The deeper you get into the fitting stages, you more you start to care about cramming components together into confined spaces. Some things work better together than others.
In both of your independent opinions, if you could go back and change anything on your Jeep-parts, the order you did things etc in regards to your lift. To do it over with the knowledge you have now, what would you guys do in regards to the lift. I’ve read many forums and both of your opinions seem to be valued by the community.
Secondly I have a Dana 44 rear but the Dana 30 up front, should I look into upgrading that if I plan on 35s. Whether that be building the 30 or swapping to a different axle. I know most people will say it depends on the skinny pedal which I agree with.
Thank you both!!
Secondly I have a Dana 44 rear but the Dana 30 up front, should I look into upgrading that if I plan on 35s. Whether that be building the 30 or swapping to a different axle. I know most people will say it depends on the skinny pedal which I agree with.
Thank you both!!
The dumbest thing I did early on was hang heavy bumpers and carries on mine. Add weight slowly and work to keep the Jeep light.
The other best thing you can do is learn how to set the bump stops by removing the coils and cycle the axles with a floor jack. Doing so will eliminate nearly all the mystery of how the suspension works. And it will help you make more informed decisions when selecting and assembling parts.
The other best thing you can do is learn how to set the bump stops by removing the coils and cycle the axles with a floor jack. Doing so will eliminate nearly all the mystery of how the suspension works. And it will help you make more informed decisions when selecting and assembling parts.
A 1" motor mount lift will compliment the 1.25" body lift. Wheel backspacing will also factor into the fitment and clearance equation.
89grand
TJ Addict
That's a standard slip yoke. A SYE replaces the t-case tail section and drive shaft with a CV driveshaft, and then you'd need at least rear upper adjustable control arms to get the pinion angle correct.
It looks like you have some weird fixed lower control arms. I'd probably replace those with factory style units.
It looks like you have some weird fixed lower control arms. I'd probably replace those with factory style units.
Last edited:
Definitely not that kind. People do put a yoke on the back of the 241 and gain about 3/8" of drive shaft length. That would certainly help my situation. But the story is that doing so can create harmonic vibration. I'm not opening that door when I addressed the problem with a strap. Keep in mind that we are talking about 5"+ of down with the last 3/4-1" still available through flex on a 4" spring lift and highly raised skid. I'm not losing useful travel unless start jumping the Jeep.
Honestly, I suspect more people have a similar problem, but don't realize it.
Last edited:
Similar threads
