Ideal setup for 32s?

psrivats said:
....

What prevents you from other more serious mods (outboarded shocks/custom arms/geometry correction) I mentioned? Budget or you don't see the need for these with 32s or a bit of both? Just curious.
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A big build around 32s would have about a 2" spring and a small body lift for the raised skids. At 2", the control arm geometry isn't screwed up enough to matter much during a climb steep where these things can be a problem.

Regarding the outboard, the benefits would be real. Just be aware that the shock travel closely matches the shock travel. Meaning it may not be feasible to get 11-12" of useful travel the way we can with a good 4" spring. The value comes from the ability to run a nicer tunable shock, splitting the travel evenly, the wider stance of the shocks and the increased opening under the axle from moving the lower mounts behind the control arms. Similar improvements and limitations apply to the front as well.
 
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I've said before that if I do another TJ build I would start with:

A TJ Rubicon (5 or 6-Speed)

2" OME
1" Currie BL
JKS Disconnects
JKS Front Trackbar
Rear CA's upper and lower
Tom Wood DC
JB SS SYE
Original Clearance UCF TT and Engine Skid
Gas Tank Skid Lift
Diff Guards
Half doors
32's

If it's Impact Orange or White that is a plus

Call it done...
 
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jjvw said:
Regarding the outboard, the benefits would be real. Just be aware that the shock travel closely matches the shock travel. Meaning it may not be feasible to get 11-12" of useful travel the way we can with a good 4" spring. The value comes from the ability to run a nicer tunable shock, splitting the travel evenly, the wider stance of the shocks and the increased opening under the axle from moving the lower mounts behind the control arms. Similar improvements and limitations apply to the front as well.
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This is just what I gathered after reading and talking to Dave.
 
Well not knowing shit about Jeeps except how bad ass they look, my father in law steered me to get a Rubicon, then we added a 2 inch BB and that’s all I had to do. No rub.
Bought it with 31’s and then got the 32’s.
Knowing what I know now, I don’t have to change a lot to get real maxed out for 32’s, BL, CA’s (I’m sure I could cheap out and do uppers or lowers but at this point I’d probably save for both F/R)
My bump stops; I’d say they get about as close to touching as possible without actually touching at full stuff.
Oil pan Skid, ZJ tie rod, AR; all worked out great for me.
 
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Mild build is anything under a 33'' tire size with 4 inch of lift in my personal opinion. In those words I love my "mild build" but as always it is a work in progress. As someone who runs 32's I can definitely say it is a slept on build style, as most "hardcore jeepers" only run 35's with crazy money dumped into their drivetrains look down upon the workhorse of a sizing. For best balanced utility 32'' build a 2.5 inch coil lift, lockers, 32x11.5 BFG KO2's, 4.10 gear ratio, and a Currie Anti-Rock Sway Bar would be very solid. That is assuming that the TJ is a 4.0 L manual, because if you're building a 2.5 or 2.4 L the first part of the build should be to find a TJ with a 4.0 and buy that.
Im currently working my build towards my own applications, so my ideal build would be
4.0 L, 5 speed, dana 30 front 44 rear
3.5 inch Long (or mid, personally I cant decide yet) lift
32x15.5 BFG KO2's, aluminum wheels with bead-locks
SYE, Tummy tuck, 1'' motor lift, oil pan skid plate, rock sliders
4.10 gear ratio
Lunchbox locker front, posi-track rear
Currie anti-rock front sway bar, rear sway bar delete
of course theres the different bumpers and whatnot but that just comes down to personal preference and isn't vital to performance.

Heres some pictures to sorta give an idea of what I use 32s on, View attachment 127649View attachment 127651View attachment 127652View attachment 127650
 
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Matchsticks said:
Mild build is anything under a 33'' tire size with 4 inch of lift in my personal opinion. In those words I love my "mild build" but as always it is a work in progress. As someone who runs 32's I can definitely say it is a slept on build style, as most "hardcore jeepers" only run 35's with crazy money dumped into their drivetrains look down upon the workhorse of a sizing. For best balanced utility 32'' build a 2.5 inch coil lift, lockers, 32x11.5 BFG KO2's, 4.10 gear ratio, and a Currie Anti-Rock Sway Bar would be very solid. That is assuming that the TJ is a 4.0 L manual, because if you're building a 2.5 or 2.4 L the first part of the build should be to find a TJ with a 4.0 and buy that.
Im currently working my build towards my own applications, so my ideal build would be
4.0 L, 5 speed, dana 30 front 44 rear
3.5 inch Long (or mid, personally I cant decide yet) lift
32x15.5 BFG KO2's, aluminum wheels with bead-locks
SYE, Tummy tuck, 1'' motor lift, oil pan skid plate, rock sliders
4.10 gear ratio
Lunchbox locker front, posi-track rear
Currie anti-rock front sway bar, rear sway bar delete
of course theres the different bumpers and whatnot but that just comes down to personal preference and isn't vital to performance.

Heres some pictures to sorta give an idea of what I use 32s on, View attachment 127649View attachment 127651View attachment 127652View attachment 127650
Click to expand...
These are just questions.
Why a rear ANTIsway bar delete? Why the Dana and "ideal"? Why a long arm for 32" tires? Curious.🤔
 
Jumping onto this thread because I have a similar setup and I'm considering a regear. PO installed 32x11.5.15 BFG KM2s, and a 2" lift. I'm running the 4.0 6cy sport, 5speed manual. From what I can gathered from all of the info on gearing, it looks like I have stock Dana 30/35 axle and 3.07 gears.

For my purposes, this is not my daily driver. While I do plan on taking it off road, it's a fair weather vehicle that will probably never see extreme trails or rock crawling. We're talking drive to and on the beach, camp roads, etc. What I do find is that it struggles at higher highway speeds (65mph and up) especially when on an incline. Up until I started reading about gearing, I just assumed it was due to the mud tires and the fact that the TJ is basically a giant cinderblock. I would just downshift and move on.

-For my purposes would I benefit from a regear and if so, to what ratio?
 
thank you...I did see that thread and still had some questions as it pertains to how I would be driving...

is there a limit to what size I can put in the existing axles? Also, what's the difference between the various gear sizes - for example, would something like a 4.88 be better suited for rock crawling or should the gears solely match the expected tire size?
 
I'm new to this too and haven't done my re-gear (yet), but my understanding is that gear choice is driven by tire size (diameter) + transmission (gears and shift points). If you go with the recommendation in the table, your manual transmission should be dialed in for both crawling and highway.
 
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