Input needed on KC HiLiTES

yes... I did this on my 1977 Grand Prix... when it was new. I put 100 watt halogens in the high beam location and had to add the relay breaker to handle the load off the high beam foot switch. The wiring had no issues.

Today you likely need to pull in new wires too. But using the fog switch on the multi function switch should be easy. Today I'd buy the KC harness for a start.

On the LED thing, I was a hater too. I was going to go with Warn halogens on the A Pillars but for simplicity, load, $$$ I went with 2 Kawell Side Shooter, $69.00. And I have a single LED bar for the roof. They all run thru the factory fog wiring. Took years to take the jump. Glad I did. They are a much stronger, smaller target for winter sand, salt.

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B071DQRQ5Y/?tag=tjforum-20
I had a '77 GP, too. Dark silver/gray with black leather interior, and T-tops. Fun car! But I digress. I never though about the "smaller target", as I believe the law here in Washington says they have to have covers on them when not in use off road (that is to say, must be covered when being driven on public roads). I'm not absolutely certain that's true, but it's what I've been told for years. Also, I like round lights better, though KC does make some round LED lights, as well. Thus far, my only experience with LED headlights was on my Mazda, and I loathed them. $100 for two "bulbs", and I swear my eyes never got used to them. I'd be afraid to spend the coin on some off road lights, only to hate them.
 
Judging from the massive mounts, I'd surmise that Zombicon has Daylighters, and the ones mounted on the yellow one's windshield frame are also Daylighters. But what are the one's on it's bumper? Are they Slimlights? Also, do you know what brand the windshield frame bracket mounts are? Are they also KC, or something else?

I think you guessed all of the lights right, I will look tomorrow, and see if I can find anything on the brackets her Jeep came like that.
 
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My '77 had the column shift and girl friend front bench seat.
I miss bench seats.
Yeah, mine was the buckets and console shift. I liked my '71 and '72 GPs better, for sure. The '79 GP I had was a totally different animal. For that matter, so was my '64. Crap, I didn't realize how many of 'em I've owned until just now!
 
This '76 is for sale down here in Seattle. It's also a bench seat car. $4,800...

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Judging from the massive mounts, I'd surmise that Zombicon has Daylighters, and the ones mounted on the yellow one's windshield frame are also Daylighters. But what are the one's on it's bumper? Are they Slimlights? Also, do you know what brand the windshield frame bracket mounts are? Are they also KC, or something else?

I found this on the bracket.

75648



Looks like these are them:
http://www.kchilites.com/tj-light-mount-brackets-97-06-jeep-wrangler-7311-black.html
 
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Cool. Thanks, Chief! KC's description never says which lights could be used with those brackets, and I was uncertain if the Daylighters had a larger mounting system that wouldn't allow them to be used on those brackets. Guess I should have known better. Thanks again!
 
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Cool. Thanks, Chief! KC's description never says which lights could be used with those brackets, and I was uncertain if the Daylighters had a larger mounting system that wouldn't allow them to be used on those brackets. Guess I should have known better. Thanks again!
You got it!
 
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Is there enough difference in the brightness between the 100W vs. 130W to justify the cost difference? $50 to $60 more for the 130W ones. What say you all?
 
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Is there enough difference in the brightness between the 100W vs. 130W to justify the cost difference? $50 to $60 more for the 130W ones. What say you all?
My suggestion, and I'm a total newbie on these things, would be check the listed lumens if possible. If vehicle lights are anything like tactical lights you'd want a good balance between candle light output and power draw. I reiterate though, I'm a total newbie on this subject.
 
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I ran them years ago on a pickup, except they were the 150W lights they no longer make. That included a 30 amp fuse if I remember correctly. If you run the daylighters I would use 10 gauge wiring (or even 8). The OE wiring harness for the foglights is pretty darn small, probably in the 16 gauge size if I had to guess.
They could be 16g, but no larger. I wouldn't run any of the 100w and larger stuff on any wire smaller than the size of the factory headlight stuff which is at least 14g and likely larger if memory serves from poking around in the connectors last night is any indicator.
 
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Regardless of what wattage I end up with, I'm buying the complete kit, and will use what they supply. I've decided not to run them of the original fog light wiring.
 
Is there enough difference in the brightness between the 100W vs. 130W to justify the cost difference? $50 to $60 more for the 130W ones. What say you all?

Go big or go home! You are not buying a flood light kit to pussy foot around! 130 All the way. If you are out in the BFE, and you want daylight, why not make daylight?
 
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Go big or go home! You are not buying a flood light kit to pussy foot around! 130 All the way. If you are out in the BFE, and you want daylight, why not make daylight?
I actually just found a site that is selling the 130W kit (black, spread beam) for $169 plus $9.95 shipping. $20 more if I want the stainless. Ordering now...
 
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So, after shopping between several different suppliers, I ended up with the KC Daylighters (full kit) 130W, spread-beam, in black. I also got the KC windshield frame mounts, and the KC 7" H4 halogen 60/55W headlights, all for $312.56. I found the 130W lights at Cross-Axled Customs for only $10-$20 more than I found the 100W Daylighters elsewhere. And finding the 130W lights in a spread-beam took some looking, let me tell you. Lots of suppliers sell them in a spot-beam, but the spread-beam is harder to find. Anyways, I'm really pleased with the cost.

Thanks, everyone, for your input. I really appreciate it!
 
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