I’ve now changed tie rod, drag link, track bar, and all related connectors, tie rod ends, etc. My suspension is very close to stock (H&R springs give maybe 1” lift). Control arms are stock so no adjustments for caster and camber can be made. I’ve tried multiple sets of tires and multiple balancings on each (spin then roadforce). I’m at a point where I’m about the pull the trigger on the Yukon locking hub conversion unless someone can suggest another area to investigate.Had the driveshaft straightened, balanced, new u joints. Reinstalled it last night. Vibrations still present but reduced to about 1/3 of what they were originally. I’m going to keep investigating.
Machine new rotors to fit the bearing hub and go from there.Not trying to revive old thread but rather recycle with different Qs. If I have an old Vanco 16 brake kit and NOS Warn hub kit, what parts would I need to make them work?
@mrblaine
I’ve now changed tie rod, drag link, track bar, and all related connectors, tie rod ends, etc. My suspension is very close to stock (H&R springs give maybe 1” lift). Control arms are stock so no adjustments for caster and camber can be made. I’ve tried multiple sets of tires and multiple balancings on each (spin then roadforce). I’m at a point where I’m about the pull the trigger on the Yukon locking hub conversion unless someone can suggest another area to investigate.
Not sure. I know my caster is 5.4 degrees, and I think that may relate to pinion angle? I don’t have any other relevant changes to stock other than the H&R springs (specifically, no transfer case drop, no body lift, no motor lift).What are your shaft and pinion angles? An inexpensive angle measuring tool will work. Something like this is what I used.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004T807/?tag=wranglerorg-20
If your angles are off, adjustable control arms may solve your issues.
I’ve seen a lot of posts from people adjusting the angles trying to eliminate vibrations, but they usually had higher lifts and the associated adjustable control arms.
I have a 3" lift, and had no vibration until I regeared. It was your regearing that triggered my response, and not the lift.
It was posted in another thread some time ago about what speeds and angles u-joints can tolerate. The higher the speed, the lower the angle tolerated. Regearing increases driveshaft speed. My take on what I read is CV joint driveshafts, like what is used on the front, need 0 degree angle between the shaft and pinion. This makes the front u-joint happy at higher speeds.
I figured a $10 angle measuring tool would give you more information before you dropped larger $ on a manual hub kit. Although the owners that installed manual hub kits seem happy.
Is this rotor something I can purchase from you?Machine new rotors to fit the bearing hub and go from there.
I'm not gonna go look up the context, what are you asking?Is this rotor something I can purchase from you?
Warn hub conversion kit to be added to old Vanco 16" BBK.I'm not gonna go look up the context, what are you asking?
I do not. I can likely get a set done with a reasonable level of accuracy if you tell me which hub kit you are using.Warn hub conversion kit to be added to old Vanco 16" BBK.
You have mentioned machining the rotor to start with. Was wondering if you sell those rotors machined already.
The angle measuring tool arrived today, so I went out and made the measurements.
I’m seeing about 2.5 degrees on the shaft and about 6.5 on the pinion.
I would try to get those angle closer to each other. Mine are within a degree of being the same. I don't know why mine are equal with OEM non-adjustable control arms and a 3" lift. I needed adjustable upper arms in the rear to get the angles equal.
I'm sure the correct way is both upper and lower control arms, but with my rear driveshaft, I was able to get the correct angle with uppers only.To get these closer, would i do adjustable on the upper and lower, or can i get away with just the lowers, or just the uppers?
I'm sure the correct way is both upper and lower control arms, but with my rear driveshaft, I was able to get the correct angle with uppers only.
If you grab your front driveshaft while it's installed, is there any movement that can be felt if you push / pull on it? Most likely near the transfer case output yoke.I’ve been working on it some more. I picked up some double adjustable control arms (front upper and lower). Installed those and tested various pinion angles (2.5, 1, 0 degrees above driveshaft angle). None of these helped at all. Oh well. At least I am one step ahead if (or when) I ever want to upgrade to a higher lift and bigger tires.
I did the alignment myself and squared the axle, taking plenty of measurements. To rule out any problems with that, I once again disconnected the front driveshaft, ran it out on the interstate up to 85mph and no vibrations.
If you grab your front driveshaft while it's installed, is there any movement that can be felt if you push / pull on it? Most likely near the transfer case output yoke.
Yes, movement straight up and down (not sideways) at the tcase output.If you grab your front driveshaft while it's installed, is there any movement that can be felt if you push / pull on it? Most likely near the transfer case output yoke.
That front transfer case output yoke nut was not torqued to spec. Tightened it up, now no more movement!Yes, movement straight up and down (not sideways) at the tcase output.