Install Report: Yukon YA-WU-08 Manual Hub Conversion Kit and VANCO 16” Big Brake Kit

Had the driveshaft straightened, balanced, new u joints. Reinstalled it last night. Vibrations still present but reduced to about 1/3 of what they were originally. I’m going to keep investigating.
 
Not trying to revive old thread but rather recycle with different Qs. If I have an old Vanco 16 brake kit and NOS Warn hub kit, what parts would I need to make them work?
@mrblaine
 
Had the driveshaft straightened, balanced, new u joints. Reinstalled it last night. Vibrations still present but reduced to about 1/3 of what they were originally. I’m going to keep investigating.
I’ve now changed tie rod, drag link, track bar, and all related connectors, tie rod ends, etc. My suspension is very close to stock (H&R springs give maybe 1” lift). Control arms are stock so no adjustments for caster and camber can be made. I’ve tried multiple sets of tires and multiple balancings on each (spin then roadforce). I’m at a point where I’m about the pull the trigger on the Yukon locking hub conversion unless someone can suggest another area to investigate.
 
I’ve now changed tie rod, drag link, track bar, and all related connectors, tie rod ends, etc. My suspension is very close to stock (H&R springs give maybe 1” lift). Control arms are stock so no adjustments for caster and camber can be made. I’ve tried multiple sets of tires and multiple balancings on each (spin then roadforce). I’m at a point where I’m about the pull the trigger on the Yukon locking hub conversion unless someone can suggest another area to investigate.

What are your shaft and pinion angles? An inexpensive angle measuring tool will work. Something like this is what I used.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004T807/?tag=wranglerorg-20

If your angles are off, adjustable control arms may solve your issues.
 
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What are your shaft and pinion angles? An inexpensive angle measuring tool will work. Something like this is what I used.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004T807/?tag=wranglerorg-20

If your angles are off, adjustable control arms may solve your issues.
Not sure. I know my caster is 5.4 degrees, and I think that may relate to pinion angle? I don’t have any other relevant changes to stock other than the H&R springs (specifically, no transfer case drop, no body lift, no motor lift).

I’ll get a measuring tool and check out those angles.

I’ve seen a lot of posts from people adjusting the angles trying to eliminate vibrations, but they usually had higher lifts and the associated adjustable control arms.
 
I’ve seen a lot of posts from people adjusting the angles trying to eliminate vibrations, but they usually had higher lifts and the associated adjustable control arms.

I have a 3" lift, and had no vibration until I regeared. It was your regearing that triggered my response, and not the lift.

It was posted in another thread some time ago about what speeds and angles u-joints can tolerate. The higher the speed, the lower the angle tolerated. Regearing increases driveshaft speed. My take on what I read is CV joint driveshafts, like what is used on the front, need 0 degree angle between the shaft and pinion. This makes the front u-joint happy at higher speeds.

I figured a $10 angle measuring tool would give you more information before you dropped larger $ on a manual hub kit. Although the owners that installed manual hub kits seem happy.
 
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I have a 3" lift, and had no vibration until I regeared. It was your regearing that triggered my response, and not the lift.

It was posted in another thread some time ago about what speeds and angles u-joints can tolerate. The higher the speed, the lower the angle tolerated. Regearing increases driveshaft speed. My take on what I read is CV joint driveshafts, like what is used on the front, need 0 degree angle between the shaft and pinion. This makes the front u-joint happy at higher speeds.

I figured a $10 angle measuring tool would give you more information before you dropped larger $ on a manual hub kit. Although the owners that installed manual hub kits seem happy.

The angle measuring tool arrived today, so I went out and made the measurements.

I’m seeing about 2.5 degrees on the shaft and about 6.5 on the pinion.

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pinion measure (perpendicular)
1615952111036.jpeg
 
The angle measuring tool arrived today, so I went out and made the measurements.

I’m seeing about 2.5 degrees on the shaft and about 6.5 on the pinion.

I would try to get those angle closer to each other. Mine are within a degree of being the same. I don't know why mine are equal with OEM non-adjustable control arms and a 3" lift. I needed adjustable upper arms in the rear to get the angles equal.
 
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I would try to get those angle closer to each other. Mine are within a degree of being the same. I don't know why mine are equal with OEM non-adjustable control arms and a 3" lift. I needed adjustable upper arms in the rear to get the angles equal.

To get these closer, would i do adjustable on the upper and lower, or can i get away with just the lowers, or just the uppers?
 
To get these closer, would i do adjustable on the upper and lower, or can i get away with just the lowers, or just the uppers?
I'm sure the correct way is both upper and lower control arms, but with my rear driveshaft, I was able to get the correct angle with uppers only.
 
I'm sure the correct way is both upper and lower control arms, but with my rear driveshaft, I was able to get the correct angle with uppers only.


I’ve been working on it some more. I picked up some double adjustable control arms (front upper and lower). Installed those and tested various pinion angles (2.5, 1, 0 degrees above driveshaft angle). None of these helped at all. Oh well. At least I am one step ahead if (or when) I ever want to upgrade to a higher lift and bigger tires.

I did the alignment myself and squared the axle, taking plenty of measurements. To rule out any problems with that, I once again disconnected the front driveshaft, ran it out on the interstate up to 85mph and no vibrations.
 
I’ve been working on it some more. I picked up some double adjustable control arms (front upper and lower). Installed those and tested various pinion angles (2.5, 1, 0 degrees above driveshaft angle). None of these helped at all. Oh well. At least I am one step ahead if (or when) I ever want to upgrade to a higher lift and bigger tires.

I did the alignment myself and squared the axle, taking plenty of measurements. To rule out any problems with that, I once again disconnected the front driveshaft, ran it out on the interstate up to 85mph and no vibrations.
If you grab your front driveshaft while it's installed, is there any movement that can be felt if you push / pull on it? Most likely near the transfer case output yoke.
 
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If you grab your front driveshaft while it's installed, is there any movement that can be felt if you push / pull on it? Most likely near the transfer case output yoke.
Yes, movement straight up and down (not sideways) at the tcase output.
 

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Yes, movement straight up and down (not sideways) at the tcase output.
That front transfer case output yoke nut was not torqued to spec. Tightened it up, now no more movement!

That may have reduced some of the subtle vibration I was seeing around 40mph but it had no effect on the heavier vibration at 70+.