Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ radiator

Installing a no slip lunch box locker and having clearance issues with my Dana 30 carrier

GregBelleville

GregBelleville

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Yesterday I began the process of upgrading my front Dana 30 to the Powertrax No Slip lunch box locker.

PXL_20250303_013732970.jpg


I was feeling good about myself, got the carrier pulled out without too much fuss, but I ran into a problem while test fitting the locker in the carrier on my workbench. The locker is making contact as I rotate it (see video) with the inside of the carrier. What the heck? Has anyone else run into this installing one of these? I found a video of a guy on YouTube that had this issue and he had to use a Dremel tool to clearance the carrier until the locker no longer made contact with anything, so apparently this is a problem with some of these?

https://photos.app.goo.gl/yfgnsvMZAd6wsNWMA


PXL_20250303_015812476.jpg
 
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Not a big deal to clearance the sand casting part if you need to. A large tolerance margin in that part of any casting
 
Rickyd said:
Not a big deal to clearance the sand casting part if you need to. A large tolerance margin in that part of any casting
Click to expand...

The area I need to clearance would be in this area marked, top and bottom on both sides? Removing material in that area shouldn't be a problem?

Any suggestions on best method/tool to get in there and grind down the carrier? I don't own a Dremel (yet) but I did complain to Extreme Terrain about this and they credited me $55 for the trouble so I might need to invest in the best tool to make this work.

PXL_20250303_015812476~2.jpg


PXL_20250303_015500742.TS_exported_3840_1741020761915~2.jpg
 
GregBelleville said:
The area I need to clearance would be in this area marked, top and bottom on both sides? Removing material in that area shouldn't be a problem?

Any suggestions on best method/tool to get in there and grind down the carrier? I don't own a Dremel (yet) but I did complain to Extreme Terrain about this and they credited me $55 for the trouble so I might need to invest in the best tool to make this work.

View attachment 597806

View attachment 597807
Click to expand...

Dremel is a super useful tool if you have to buy one
 
GregBelleville said:
Yeah this might be the project that makes one a necessity. Are there grinding bits for them that would be better at making quick work of removing material from the carrier?
Click to expand...

I think the stone grinding bits are the ones specifically for metal? But there are also little drum sanders and a carbide bits. I believe my 3000 came with a little bit of each
 
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GregBelleville said:
The area I need to clearance would be in this area marked, top and bottom on both sides? Removing material in that area shouldn't be a problem?

Any suggestions on best method/tool to get in there and grind down the carrier? I don't own a Dremel (yet) but I did complain to Extreme Terrain about this and they credited me $55 for the trouble so I might need to invest in the best tool to make this work.

View attachment 597806

View attachment 597807
Click to expand...

Dremel is great but I'd probably sneak a die grinder in there and go to town. Not that a dremel wouldn't work but not as fast as my other tools
 
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They look similar, but the die grinders appear to be more powerful?

I bought a Ryobi 1.4a rotary tool today at HD to try out, it looks like the die grinders are much more powerful (and more expensive). This DeWalt is 4.2a for example and costs $150, whereas the Ryobi rotary tool was $60.

Screenshot_20250303-164303.png
 
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GregBelleville said:
Yesterday I began the process of upgrading my front Dana 30 to the Powertrax No Slip lunch box locker.

View attachment 597753

I was feeling good about myself, got the carrier pulled out without too much fuss, but I ran into a problem while test fitting the locker in the carrier on my workbench. The locker is making contact as I rotate it (see video) with the inside of the carrier. What the heck? Has anyone else run into this installing one of these? I found a video of a guy on YouTube that had this issue and he had to use a Dremel tool to clearance the carrier until the locker no longer made contact with anything, so apparently this is a problem with some of these?

https://photos.app.goo.gl/yfgnsvMZAd6wsNWMA


View attachment 597754
Click to expand...

I have had to clearance Dana 30 carriers for the exact same reason. Fairly common issue.
 
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Tonight I got a chance to take the rotary tool for a spin. None of the included bits with the kit were hardy enough for this kind of grinding. The tungsten carbide bit worked like a charm tho.

PXL_20250306_050518696.jpg


PXL_20250306_050458057.jpg


She's spinning good now.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/tmTimfY6YuYW9qaV6

I have another question. Before I removed the ring gear I paint marked the gear and the carrier so that I could reinstall the ring gear exactly as it was removed from the carrier. Unfortunately when cleaning up the carrier after the grinding I inadvertently cleaned off the paint mark as well. How big of a deal is it if the ring gear doesn't get reinstalled exactly in the position on the carrier it was removed from?
 
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macleanflood said:
Theoretically fine.

Ring gear should be the same thickness. Runout should be in spec.

-Mac
Click to expand...


Thanks Mac that's good to hear. I'm going to try to get the ring gear reinstalled tonight and torqued to spec. Hopefully I'll be able to finish the install this weekend. Really looking forward to seeing how this locker performs!
 
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So I went to the fsm for my 1999 and it's giving me a range of 70 to 90 ft lbs for ring gear bolt torque? Seems odd,I can't recall seeing a torque spec like this with a 20 ft lbs range?

Any advice here? Should I just aim to torque all bolts to the same spec and as long as I'm between 70 and 90 I'm good?

Screenshot_20250306-155314.png
 
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GregBelleville said:
So I went to the fsm for my 1999 and it's giving me a range of 70 to 90 ft lbs for ring gear bolt torque? Seems odd,I can't recall seeing a torque spec like this with a 20 ft lbs range?

Any advice here? Should I just aim to torque all bolts to the same spec and as long as I'm between 70 and 90 I'm good?

View attachment 598759
Click to expand...

Well F now I'm curious too. I've got this that says 55....

IMG_20250306_173254.jpg
 
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I was always taught if you have a range like that, just go to the middle (80 ft/lbs).

When I installed my Torq Locker up front on my 2006, the factory service manual called for 80 ft/lbs on the ring gear bolts. I used red loctite on my bolts when I installed them.

IMG_1244.jpeg
 
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