Nothing is going to rotate by loosening bolts. Removing them will allow the axle to rotate though.
Installing lift kit - control arms
- Thread starter Danarch
- Start date
Nothing is going to rotate by loosening bolts. Removing them will allow the axle to rotate though.
Yes, loosen the bolts, but do not remove, you’ll need to use ratchet straps and lot of swears if you do… Track bar you should remove at least one end, it sounds like you are replacing the front with adjustable, so just take it out to prep for the new, should not need a TB relocation bracket in front if you’re using adjustable. Rear, do the same, but if you are using stock TB, just remove the axle end or put the bracket on.
Is it okay to remove the lower front CA’s? I’ll be replacing with adjustable CA’s. The top TB will remain installed..
Thank you. I’ll be replacing the rear track bar with a adjustable too.
That is interesting though as the instructions state to remove each LCA from the axle then lower. Others here have said I may need to remove the axle side to get to drop enough to R&R the springs. I think I’ll leave them connected and if I run into an issue do one side and then move the other side if I can get them R&R that way. I headed out for some fun now
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For inquiring minds, I managed to the rear axle done. Loosened all the control arms, but didn’t need to remove any of them. Had plenty of room to get the coils in, those 6 ton jack stands are useful for things like this. I thought the upper shock bolts the corners were rounded till I realized I had put away the 14 and 13mm sockets in the wrong spot!
I am disappointed in the adjustable track bar. It is all the way in, but the axle is still offset about 3/4”. I think if it mounted at the original location at the axle it wouldn’t be too long. But I suppose I can live with 3/4” difference. Hopefully the front in isn’t like that. And the bolt marking stuff is great, torque the bolt and mark it. I use it all the time.
Now BBQ some T-Bones and baked potato for dinner. Back to the Jeep Monday.
I am disappointed in the adjustable track bar. It is all the way in, but the axle is still offset about 3/4”. I think if it mounted at the original location at the axle it wouldn’t be too long. But I suppose I can live with 3/4” difference. Hopefully the front in isn’t like that. And the bolt marking stuff is great, torque the bolt and mark it. I use it all the time.
Now BBQ some T-Bones and baked potato for dinner. Back to the Jeep Monday.
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This is perfect for the OP since he's already changing the track bar anyway, but just for anybody else seeing this, you can also disconnect ONE upper control arm to achieve the same. The limiter on the droop is the track bar fighting the triangulation of the UCAs, so disconnecting any one of those three links will free it up.
OR for shits and giggles, you COULD see how well the factory/oem bar does with the relocation bracket, and if it works well send the adjustable bar back.
but as DLA said, most lift kits send the relocation bracket, meant for usage with OEM track-bar.
Hence why adjustable track bars are usually NOT included in lift kits, but relocation brackets are common.
Seemed like most people suggested to install it to avoid issues with other components. The MFR recommended to install it.
All of those people do not understand how they are screwing up the steering geometry.
Judging by the fact that your rear axle is almost 1" out of spec, I would say that 'most people' and even the MFR were incorrect.
You'd be better off having some slight issues with other components, which can be alleviated by usage of adjustable control arms OR alternate bumpstops, versus your rear axle being that deep out of line.
We're talking some pretty serious geometry issues here.
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I am going to double check the dimensions. I think the concerns using the stock mounting point is the track bar hitting the fuel tank skid. I am also wondering if the TB will hit the exhaust pipe if connected to the stock location. After crawling around under there seems like stock setup doesn’t have a lot space between the TB and exhaust pipe.
Also why it's important to fully articulate your suspension without springs to see what it makes contact with...then you can adjust either bump stops or arm lengths to fix that issue.
-Mac
I did not see that you were putting in adjustable rear in, otherwise I would not ave recommended it.
In your application, the sole purpose of the rear relocation bracket is to center the rear axle when using the stock trackbar.
If the relocation bracket came with the BDS lift kit and is meant to be used with the stock track bar, then I'd leave it out as dla mentioned. If the bracket came with the adjustable track bar, and it is the type that angles the axle side mount toward the front, then you will want to install it as it will help to clear the gas tank skid.
Well this makes sense why some might be saying to use the relocation bracket. The bracket came with the lift kit, not the adjustable TB. I bought the adjustable TB thinking I would need it and figured bushing etc would b worn in the stock one.
I am going to double check the dimensions. But at 3/4” it seems like it is only 3/8” out of spec. I say 3/8” because it needs to move 3/8” to the passenger side to make each side equal.
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