Iron Rock vs Core4x4: Battle of the good enough control arms?

[mrblaine]

Sure not gonna get in a spitting war with you. But my understanding of what your rear 35 needs between the 33 to a 35 is significant. A 35 with 4.10's can live a fairly happy life running 33's. Up that to 35's and most internals are pushed pretty hard. Running 33's and stock brakes with perhaps a pad upgrade are common. Running 35's and once again the stock parts are pushed to the edge. This is what I have been reading on this forum day after day. This is what people FAR more knowledgeable than I will ever be have repeated over and over. Drive line angles, axle upgrades, brake upgrades, control arm upgrades, etc. And while I will always try to save a dollar when I can, I will never buy a crap part to save a nickel. To put Currie steering on a rig that has 31's and never leaves the road is a waste of money. Putting it on a rig with 35's pounding across the Rubicon and Johnson Valley is not. The guy with the first rig can stay with his stock parts. The guy with the second rig will need to spend more to remain safe.

Not sure where the cost to do it right is not that far apart between 33's and 35's doesn't apply.

 

[jjvw]

To add an example, 33s done right (or done well) does not end with the popular Zone 4.25" kit. However, many can get away with it because that kit is just barely adequate to survive well enough for most people's usage on 33s. Start pushing that rig to find the boundaries of 33s and other shortcomings will begin to show up long before the tire size itself becomes a limitation.

Once the limits of 33s have been identified, the next goal is to find an extra inch of tire clearance for a 35. At that point, the rest of the build isn't that fundamentally different, especially if we are focusing our attention at bolt on parts.