Iron Rock vs Core4x4: Battle of the good enough control arms?

Educatemepls

Educatemepls

TJ Enthusiast
Joined
Aug 31, 2019
Messages
105
Location
Salt Lake, Utah
Hey eveyone, been reading and reading and reading here for days now that I'm finally getting my Tj next month, as such I'm doing my research to find the best lift system (FOR ME, MY BUDGET AND MY NEEDS).

I'm going for a budget build, since I rather spend my money on the trips I'm building my jeep for than on my jeep, the jeep is just the means to and end... Having fun. So I'm looking to get the best bang for my money without buying crap, 80-20 rule, law of diminishing return and all that.

From what I've read I'll be setting my lift with 3ish" suspension lift+ 1.25 body lift, a frankenstein of Rancho 5000x that everyone seems to love, on springs im a bit torn between 3"Teraflex/saavy or 3.5" by rock krawler... Rock Krawler is the cheapest oltho not by much and the tallest lift, and seem to be a good brand.

But I'm having some issues finding the perfect Adjustable control arms for my needs, wanting to spend around $800 for the full set, so far I've found Iron Rock which people seem to like as a brand kfr other builds but haven't heard much of them from the tj community, and they have a 3" kit with 3" springs, all adjustable arms, break lines, adjustable trackbar (double sheer), rear trackbar relocation, extended front sway bar, pretty much all I need plus my Ranchos, my other option... Core 4x4 tier 2, this comes with Johnny joints on one side, saw them mentioned here and for the price they look great.


What are yalls general opinions on this arms? What other options do I have for a reliable adj cas that it's not the full premium of saavy/currie cas?
 
Core 4x4 are fine. Are you planning on doing an SYE and CV driveshaft?
You probably should do it.
 
A Johnny Joint is always superior. However, is it always necessary? No, not by any means.

What do you want to do with your Jeep, that's the number one most important thing you're leaving out here.
 
Chris said:
A Johnny Joint is always superior. However, is it always necessary? No, not by any means.

What do you want to do with your Jeep, that's the number one most important thing you're leaving out here.
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Well this is my first off road rig, so to be honest... I don't know.

it will be a lot of camping and "overlanding" but I might want to give the harder trails a try, that's why I'm trying to get some mid of fbe line build, somewhat reliable for dd ans camping but a bit over built in case I want to give the more advance stuff a try, and maybe I'll like it.
 
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Educatemepls said:
Well this is my first off road rig, so to be honest... I don't know.

it will be a lot of camping and "overlanding" but I might want to give the harder trails a try, that's why I'm trying to get some mid of fbe line build, somewhat reliable for dd ans camping but a bit over built in case I want to give the more advance stuff a try, and maybe I'll like it.
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In that case, I would put 31s on it, a 2.5" lift and keep the stock control arms.

Drive it like that and wheel it until you find out you need more... which there's a very good chance you'll find that you won't :)
 
Not an option 🤣 I can't drive a jeep on 31, even tho I know I probably should and like you said, it's probably all I need but... They look so nice on 33"-35".

Also PO installed a crappy 4" procomp and God knows what else. Ill be going to see the jeep again next weekend and will have mode info on it.
 
You're in UT, keep doing what you're doing. Stay at 3" SL and 1.25" BL, stock control arms and 33's. The rest sounds perfect. YOu can go almost anywhere with that setup, even in UT.

Nice screen name.
 
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I'm with JMT on this one. And I'm in NY. No big granite mountains or gator infested swamps. No desert whoops or glacier passes. So a good well rounded Jeep is perfect. And it seems that going past 33's can get a whole lot spendier. If you haven't even got it home yet I would not start rebuilding everything. First drive it and use it until spring. Then you may find you like those crappy springs. And that cheesy spare tire cover, etc.
 
Educatemepls said:
Not an option 🤣 I can't drive a jeep on 31, even tho I know I probably should and like you said, it's probably all I need but... They look so nice on 33"-35".

Also PO installed a crappy 4" procomp and God knows what else. Ill be going to see the jeep again next weekend and will have mode info on it.
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Make sure they didnt add a drop pitman arm when they installed that kit.

alignment01.jpg
 
Goatman said:
And it seems that going past 33's can get a whole lot spendier.
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Very common misconception from the "do it as cheap as possible regardless of anything else" folks.

Done correctly with all the same things in mind that make a build a good build, the difference in price is the delta between 33 and 35" tire cost and a body lift.

Steering cost is the same.
Swaybar disconnects cost the same.
Springs cost the same.
Front and rear trackbars cost the same.
Control arms cost the same.
Bump stops cost the same.
Raised belly, same cost, 33's or 35's.
Optional cable shifter, same cost.
Traction aiding devices, same cost.
Gears cost the same.
SYE and CV driveshaft costs the same.
 
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mrblaine said:
...
Done correctly with all the same things in mind that make a build a good build, the difference in price is the delta between 33 and 35" tire cost and a body lift.
...
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This is very correct.
 
mrblaine said:
Very common misconception from the "do it as cheap as possible regardless of anything else" folks.

Done correctly with all the same things in mind that make a build a good build, the difference in price is the delta between 33 and 35" tire cost and a body lift.
Click to expand...


I'm trying real hard to convince myself to stay ar 33" mostly due to on road drivability gas and all, I might take it around through latin America.. So lots of highway miles. You not making it easier lmao

But thsts what I've always thought only thing id need to add to 35" although I should regardless, it's the big break upgrage.
 
Y
Goatman said:
I'm with JMT on this one. And I'm in NY. No big granite mountains or gator infested swamps. No desert whoops or glacier passes. So a good well rounded Jeep is perfect. And it seems that going past 33's can get a whole lot spendier. If you haven't even got it home yet I would not start rebuilding everything. First drive it and use it until spring. Then you may find you like those crappy springs. And that cheesy spare tire cover, etc.
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Eah I plan on leaving it as is and endure the shitty drive and start with shit that breaks or hasn't been done. I'll probably start by beefing up the axles with better internals and super 35 conversion, gears and lockers, even if it's a shitty suspension, and the ride is crap, it's already there so I'll prioritize fixing other stuff, and like you said maybe I don't think it's that bad 😁
 
Rancho 5000x are definitely not the best shock for a TJ but ok...

I also wouldn’t run 35s and a zj tie rod.
 
Educatemepls said:
I'm trying real hard to convince myself to stay ar 33" mostly due to on road drivability gas and all, I might take it around through latin America.. So lots of highway miles. You not making it easier lmao

But thsts what I've always thought only thing id need to add to 35" although I should regardless, it's the big break upgrage.
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There is no reason not to leave it on 33's. My only point was to correct the misconceptions about the economics of doing it right.
 
Lou said:
Rancho 5000x are definitely not the best shock for a TJ but ok...

I also wouldn’t run 35s and a zj tie rod.
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You need to get out of your own skin for a minute. For what he sounds like he is trying to do, nothing wrong with the ZJ stuff at all. He certainly doesn't need the expense of the Currie.
 
mrblaine said:
Very common misconception from the "do it as cheap as possible regardless of anything else" folks.

Done correctly with all the same things in mind that make a build a good build, the difference in price is the delta between 33 and 35" tire cost and a body lift.

Steering cost is the same.
Swaybar disconnects cost the same.
Springs cost the same.
Front and rear trackbars cost the same.
Control arms cost the same.
Bump stops cost the same.
Raised belly, same cost, 33's or 35's.
Optional cable shifter, same cost.
Traction aiding devices, same cost.
Gears cost the same.
SYE and CV driveshaft costs the same.
Click to expand...
Sure not gonna get in a spitting war with you. But my understanding of what your rear 35 needs between the 33 to a 35 is significant. A 35 with 4.10's can live a fairly happy life running 33's. Up that to 35's and most internals are pushed pretty hard. Running 33's and stock brakes with perhaps a pad upgrade are common. Running 35's and once again the stock parts are pushed to the edge. This is what I have been reading on this forum day after day. This is what people FAR more knowledgeable than I will ever be have repeated over and over. Drive line angles, axle upgrades, brake upgrades, control arm upgrades, etc. And while I will always try to save a dollar when I can, I will never buy a crap part to save a nickel. To put Currie steering on a rig that has 31's and never leaves the road is a waste of money. Putting it on a rig with 35's pounding across the Rubicon and Johnson Valley is not. The guy with the first rig can stay with his stock parts. The guy with the second rig will need to spend more to remain safe.
 
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