Is there something wrong with my shifter?
- Thread starter Midtenn
- Start date
I’ve had this issue with the NSG-370 transmission. I lifted 2.5” and did a MML. At that time I was fine. Later I did a BL and that’s when my shifter started contacting the console and my lower shifter boot tore and heat started rushing into the cab. There is nothing wrong with removing the shifter and bending it with a brake. My solution was more complicated and difficult, but I didn’t have access to a brake. Ultimately my solution will be a tummy tuck.
Bending the shifter is just treating a symptom, I doubt that a boot will allow that much movement without tearing eventually. The previous owner even cut part of the tranny tunnel to clear the increased throw from the drop, when you fix the problem you might want to seal the front of the lower boot. The proper way to fix it would be install upper adjustable control arms possibly a slip yoke eliminator and a double cardan driveshaft. The motor mount lift is just a simpler solution To get the proper driveline angle and get rid of the drop.
So I don’t need a complete tummy tuck (the different skid) just most of the parts? Do I need a body lift too or just the motor mount lift, slip yoke eliminatior, control arms, and driveshaft?
I would try the motor mount lift first since it's the easiest and least expensive. This type is the preferred as it keeps the factory motor mounts.
https://savvyoffroad.com/product/sav-mmltj/
You don’t have or need a body lift but you do have an 1-1/2” TC drop that needs to go, a body lift would make it worse. As @someguysjeep pointed out there is a relocation bracket that would also need to be removed. Shifter relocation bracket in red, the cut in the tub to clear the shifter is circled in blue.
First you need to decide what you want from your TJ? Then how much you’re willing to spend.
First you need to decide what you want from your TJ? Then how much you’re willing to spend.
are you saying I already have a body lift?
I’ll take some pictures of the motor mounts to see if a prior owner already accomplished this as well
You do not have a body lift or there would be a spacer here.
ya, good catch, the bracket is there but those mounts look like stock.
no is does not appear to have a BL. but it does have a bracket associated with a BL (the thing he circled in red, is a drop bracket). if the TC case shifter works fine then it's probably a nonissue. but you'd need to mind it too if your gonna try and get rid of the belly drop, and be sure it's gonna function correctly.
it was used to cover the new distance, from body to drive is gonna change whether it's a BL or TC drop.
my general habit is to spend as if I’m going to keep the vehicle forever, but sell it in a year.
The SYE, control arms, and new driveshaft are a given at this point. I’m just seeing what else I have to do.
you do the SYE & DC shaft and some adjustable CA's, you'll be able to pull that drop out completely.........so if you have dreams of any kind of tuck or shallow skid, now's the time to do that as well. (but most of those require a BL). so you got some deciding to do
most would recommend the Savvy shifter cable and ditch the crappy bracket, but that's up to you.
most would recommend the Savvy shifter cable and ditch the crappy bracket, but that's up to you.
looks stock, and pretty dry.
if your set on the parts you listed above, you can get by without the MML.
the point of the MML is to either angle the drive line down, or to work along with a BL.
with those new parts you'll require no tilt, and you have no BL to require the MML as a companion piece.
if your set on the parts you listed above, you can get by without the MML.
the point of the MML is to either angle the drive line down, or to work along with a BL.
with those new parts you'll require no tilt, and you have no BL to require the MML as a companion piece.
Not set but seems like a much better solution than bending the arm, tearing the boot, etc.
I think like you mentioned earlier is for me to decide to full on tummy tuck or just a partial because if skid plate clearance becomes an issue I’ll potentially have to buy another driveshaft.
I think like you mentioned earlier is for me to decide to full on tummy tuck or just a partial because if skid plate clearance becomes an issue I’ll potentially have to buy another driveshaft.
Start by deciding what “FINAL” size tire you plan on running, in other words the tallest tire you will ever run, then build accordingly.
a new double cardan drive shaft is part of the SYE conversion, they go together and is a must to run the SYE.
adjustable CA's will allow you to align and control pinion angles.
be warned tucking the belly usually involves the MML and BL as well as pushing the drive line up at the TC.
but those parts would set you up to be able to do all that later, if your undecided
once you start to price all this stuff you might get skittish, prying $ from pockets always does it.
but it's those parts ^ or an MML and play with the TC drop spacing. this is the cheap way to net maybe 1/2 that drop back.
adjustable CA's will allow you to align and control pinion angles.
be warned tucking the belly usually involves the MML and BL as well as pushing the drive line up at the TC.
but those parts would set you up to be able to do all that later, if your undecided
once you start to price all this stuff you might get skittish, prying $ from pockets always does it.
but it's those parts ^ or an MML and play with the TC drop spacing. this is the cheap way to net maybe 1/2 that drop back.
Thanks for all your help (and the others) these past couple days. The ball is clearly in my court now. I think I’ll swap shocks to the ranchos and see if they remedy some of the harsh driving I’m assuming is being caused by the 35” tires. If it does, I’ll keep the 35s, if not I’ll move down to 33s. Just like every other project, one step at a time.
You know, just a couple minutes with a tin snip and then you will be able to shift fine. Total cost $0. If your goal was just to fix the shifting issue then this would seem the way to go. Otherwise you are spending a whole lot to fix a very minor problem.
If you are intending to redo the entire suspension and this just gives you the reason to pull the trigger, then drive on!
If you are intending to redo the entire suspension and this just gives you the reason to pull the trigger, then drive on!
You know, just a couple minutes with a tin snip and then you will be able to shift fine. Total cost $0. If your goal was just to fix the shifting issue then this would seem the way to go. Otherwise you are spending a whole lot to fix a very minor problem.
If you are intending to redo the entire suspension and this just gives you the reason to pull the trigger, then drive on!
I considered that but since I have these 35s and don’t see a reason to drop them, I figure it may be best to build the Jeep around the 35s, one step at a time.
I think if I started with 33s, I’d be content but now that I have 35s it will be hard to go back. I like the look. If this was a daily, it would be different. It’s a family friendly convertible.
Similar threads
