It just happened!

I had a rough idle, so the injectors were removed and cleaned. Several were fouled badly. While I was in there I installed a Chinese knockoff of the DEI hot start kit. Suffice it to say the Chinese kit is junk and had to be modified to fit correctly. The DEI kits I've installed were better quality and fit perfectly.

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I had a rough idle, so the injectors were removed and cleaned. Several were fouled badly. While I was in there I installed a Chinese knockoff of the DEI hot start kit. Suffice it to say the Chinese kit is junk and had to be modified to fit correctly. The DEI kits I've installed were better quality and fit perfectly.

View attachment 315502

View attachment 315503
What do you do to clean the injectors once they are removed? Is it just cleaning up the exterior or is there some way of running cleaner through the inside?

(I‘ve never tried to clean one, only replaced one in the Saturn I have)
 
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What do you do to clean the injectors once they are removed? Is it just cleaning up the exterior or is there some way of running cleaner through the inside?

(I‘ve never tried to clean one, only replaced one in the Saturn I have)
Once you remove them you're able to spray carb cleaner into the part that goes inside the fuel rail. You can also spray and clean the bottom part that goes into the intake manifold. In my case the tips were fouled worse than I expected, given the jeep only has 103K on it. After cleaning, it now idles smoothly, with no stumbling.

FWIW, if you haven't pulled them before, it can be a pain to separate the fuel rail and injectors from the intake manifold. You just have to start at one end and pop them loose one at a time. Also, note that sometimes the O-rings stay on the injector, sometimes they don't. All the O-rings, 12 total, should be replaced, in the event you remove them.
 
Made some good progress Friday and part of Saturday. New parts included:

CONTINENTAL66692Radiator Hose
CONTINENTAL62394Radiator Hose
CONTINENTAL64418Heater Hose / Pipe
CONTINENTAL64419Heater Hose / Pipe
CONTINENTAL49256Belt Tensioner
CONTINENTAL49039Idler Pulley
FEL-PRO35630Thermostat / Thermostat Housing / Water Outlet Seal
GATESCO34741Thermostat Housing / Water Outlet
STANT45359Thermostat
STANT10334Radiator Cap
MOPAR5503 7653ABRadiator
OMIX17105.12Fan Clutch
MOPAR5012366AFWater Pump
RED HOUND‎2946079Valve Cover Grommet
DORMAN47128PCV Rubber Hose Connectors

Also installed new rubber transmission lines and the u-Box fuel rail kit, which is a poor quality fit Chinese knockoff of the DEI kit.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08TTT8GVM/?tag=wranglerorg-20
 
Happy birthday late, and thanks for posting great information and parts lists. It is very helpful to those of us with less experience working on our rigs.
 
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Once you remove them you're able to spray carb cleaner into the part that goes inside the fuel rail. You can also spray and clean the bottom part that goes into the intake manifold. In my case the tips were fouled worse than I expected, given the jeep only has 103K on it. After cleaning, it now idles smoothly, with no stumbling.

FWIW, if you haven't pulled them before, it can be a pain to separate the fuel rail and injectors from the intake manifold. You just have to start at one end and pop them loose one at a time. Also, note that sometimes the O-rings stay on the injector, sometimes they don't. All the O-rings, 12 total, should be replaced, in the event you remove them.
Great, thanks. I may have to give this a try sometime.
 
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Great, thanks. I may have to give this a try sometime.
I should also mention that I use a piece of vacuum hose, adapted to a shop vacuum, to clean debris from around the injector intake ports. Then I use alcohol and Q Tips to clean the carbon buildup on each port. This helps make sure the new O-rings seal properly.
 
Dude, you can eat off of everything you work on….
He has a sickness.
Part of it is nothing more than pride in work, but you both know this! I just wish others shared the same sentiment. While I was doing the job I found the following:

- Driver side radiator seal was missing (This is the rubber piece that connects to the fender and grill)
- Three of the metal hats that the valve cover bolts get inserted into (not sure what they're actually called) are missing and just had washers sitting on top of the rubber seal
- Plastic Cover on the wiring harness for the fuel rail is broken
- PCV elbows had been replaced, but both were the large orifice openings (one is supposed to be small, one large)
- Ground strap on the back of the engine was not connected and the nut was missing

I fixed the PCV elbows, radiator seal, and ground strap, but still have to source the:

- plastic cover for the injector harness
- three valve cover bolt hats (seen in the picture)

:(

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Part of it is nothing more than pride in work, but you both know this! I just wish others shared the same sentiment. While I was doing the job I found the following:

- Driver side radiator seal was missing (This is the rubber piece that connects to the fender and grill)
- Three of the metal hats that the valve cover bolts get inserted into (not sure what they're actually called) are missing and just had washers sitting on top of the rubber seal
- Plastic Cover on the wiring harness for the fuel rail is broken
- PCV elbows had been replaced, but both were the large orifice openings (one is supposed to be small, one large)
- Ground strap on the back of the engine was not connected and the nut was missing

I fixed the PCV elbows, radiator seal, and ground strap, but still have to source the:

- plastic cover for the injector harness
- three valve cover bolt hats (seen in the picture)

:(

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I think they are called grommets. If I recall correctly, that’s what the Fel-pro packaging called it when I replaced my gasket.
 
The metal hats are hard to find. I lost 2 when I was replacing the valve cover gasket and had to source 2 from Daveys.
 
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Part of it is nothing more than pride in work, but you both know this! I just wish others shared the same sentiment. While I was doing the job I found the following:

- Driver side radiator seal was missing (This is the rubber piece that connects to the fender and grill)
- Three of the metal hats that the valve cover bolts get inserted into (not sure what they're actually called) are missing and just had washers sitting on top of the rubber seal
- Plastic Cover on the wiring harness for the fuel rail is broken
- PCV elbows had been replaced, but both were the large orifice openings (one is supposed to be small, one large)
- Ground strap on the back of the engine was not connected and the nut was missing

I fixed the PCV elbows, radiator seal, and ground strap, but still have to source the:

- plastic cover for the injector harness
- three valve cover bolt hats (seen in the picture)

:(

View attachment 315856

I'm guessing that means someone had replaced the valve cover before, which explains the occasional oil drip that I never could quite track down.

I'm also glad you got rid of that damn idle stumble, I chased that forever trying to fix it because it was so random when it would happen.
 
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I'm guessing that means someone had replaced the valve cover before, which explains the occasional oil drip that I never could quite track down.
Yes, she had work done that I hope she didn't pay for! :rolleyes:
I'm also glad you got rid of that damn idle stumble, I chased that forever trying to fix it because it was so random when it would happen.
I knew, well, was at least confident, what the problem was. Especially, after you told me the plugs were changed. You'd be happy, it runs so much better. It does need a bath though! ;)
 
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I finally got a chance to drive the LJ after the coolant system update. Happy to report all is well and there are no issues/leaks. I'm not happy to report I'm an idiot. The A/C wasn't working, so I broke out the gauges to check the system. After a little bit of trouble shooting, I discovered that I had neglected to plug back in the connector for the clutch cycling switch that goes into the accumulator drier. I had removed the connector when replacing the heater hoses, due to needing better access to the spring clamps. :oops:

Apparently, now I have an issue with the backup camera. Every time I press on the brakes, the backup camera comes on. As soon as I get off the brakes, the camera goes out. More trouble shooting time! :(