Just another locker and gear thread

SvtLdr suggested Revolution Gear & Axle, but what about other manufacturers like Alloy USA, Yukon and Motive Gear.
I fount an interresting Kit on Ebay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/2737519141...d=link&campid=5337789113&toolid=20001&mkevt=1
Ebay takes all the hassle with the custumer duty and taxes from me, but I didn´t find any Revolution Gear kit with international shipping on ebay.

The Grip Pro should have the Partnumbers GT443027 and GT443527.
That is an interesting kit, but are you wanting a posi rear? I would suggest limited slip if you are mainly on the road; or a selectable locker. I'm getting ready for a regear and have chosen the Eaton Detroit Truetrac. Please be careful when purchasing complete kits like that; you may not get the quality that you'd expect, which isn't a good compromise for the convenience.
 
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That is an interesting kit, but are you wanting a posi rear? I would suggest limited slip if you are mainly on the road; or a selectable locker. I'm getting ready for a regear and have chosen the Eaton Detroit Truetrac. Please be careful when purchasing complete kits like that; you may not get the quality that you'd expect, which isn't a good compromise for the convenience.
Posi (from the GM trade name positraction) and limited-slip are one in the same. The Powertrax Grip Pro is a limited-slip differential - definitely not a locker. @michi mentioned that he was mostly dealing with muddy and snowy trails. The Powertrax (or Detroit Trutrac) would help provide better traction in those scenarios.
 
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I'm gonna throw this out there, Don't even think about doing your own regear, its a very complicated job, that is Very easy to mess-up and is disastrous if you do

here's a VERY helpful thread on the subject what-gear-ratio-should-i-install-in-my-jeep-wrangler-tj-lj-and-other-re-gearing-faqs.17063
I'm gonna throw this out there...

This is stupid advice and we need to stop making it. Regearing is really no more or less complicated than any other major mechanical repair. Yes, it takes some understanding and some additional tools, but contrary to popular belief it is not very complicated. I learned how to do gears from a guy who built axles for other people. He wouldn't get started on the gears until he was halfway through a case of Bud Light. In decades of knowing him, I don't think he's ever had a setup come back as being done wrong.
 
I'm gonna throw this out there...

This is stupid advice and we need to stop making it. Regearing is really no more or less complicated than any other major mechanical repair. Yes, it takes some understanding and some additional tools, but contrary to popular belief it is not very complicated. I learned how to do gears from a guy who built axles for other people. He wouldn't get started on the gears until he was halfway through a case of Bud Light. In decades of knowing him, I don't think he's ever had a setup come back as being done wrong.
Wait.... are you saying that none of his gear setups have EXPLODED?... and no one has DIED?!
Simply shocking.
 
Wait.... are you saying that none of his gear setups have EXPLODED?... and no one has DIED?!
Simply shocking.
Yeah, it's crazy - be it a mud truck, 9" in an Outlaw car, or sitting behind a Rat motored street car on cheater slicks - his gear's haven't killed a single person!

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I'm gonna throw this out there...

This is stupid advice and we need to stop making it. Regearing is really no more or less complicated than any other major mechanical repair. Yes, it takes some understanding and some additional tools, but contrary to popular belief it is not very complicated. I learned how to do gears from a guy who built axles for other people. He wouldn't get started on the gears until he was halfway through a case of Bud Light. In decades of knowing him, I don't think he's ever had a setup come back as being done wrong.
Dammit! That’s why my last regear was such a pain. I didn’t start with half a case of Bud Light!

Well, live and learn…
 
I'm gonna throw this out there...

This is stupid advice and we need to stop making it. Regearing is really no more or less complicated than any other major mechanical repair. Yes, it takes some understanding and some additional tools, but contrary to popular belief it is not very complicated. I learned how to do gears from a guy who built axles for other people. He wouldn't get started on the gears until he was halfway through a case of Bud Light. In decades of knowing him, I don't think he's ever had a setup come back as being done wrong.
I admitted I was wrong, I just took what I said from Chris's writeup on regearing...
 
Posi (from the GM trade name positraction) and limited-slip are one in the same. The Powertrax Grip Pro is a limited-slip differential - definitely not a locker. @michi mentioned that he was mostly dealing with muddy and snowy trails. The Powertrax (or Detroit Trutrac) would help provide better traction in those scenarios.
Thank you for clarification on both points.
 
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I'm gonna throw this out there...

This is stupid advice and we need to stop making it. Regearing is really no more or less complicated than any other major mechanical repair. Yes, it takes some understanding and some additional tools, but contrary to popular belief it is not very complicated. I learned how to do gears from a guy who built axles for other people. He wouldn't get started on the gears until he was halfway through a case of Bud Light. In decades of knowing him, I don't think he's ever had a setup come back as being done wrong.
I kinda chuckle when I hear about all the negatives that people throw out when others discuss doing gear set-ups for the first time. A lot of times, those same people will tell a complete newb to "go ahead and change your own brakes, its easy!"

Sure, brakes might be easier, but the consequence for failure is MUCH higher than having a bad ring and pinion set-up. Its not voodoo, just requires patience, some special tools, and a little math
 
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I thought about going back and editing my original post when I said don't regear yourself... that was when @SvtLdr first corrected me, welp, to late now...

Sorry to cause trouble y'all
No need to apologize. If we've gotten you to think about it in a different light then our work here is done.
 
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I know a regearing job is not like changing a lightbulb. With all the help from you guys it is a possible task.

While watching some videos and reading some how-to guides I came up with an other question:

Sometimes the shims are between the carrier and the bearing, so you need some setup bearings to get the right wear pattern and backlash. But some guys are putting the shims between the bearing and the differentialhousing. The second way eliminates the need for setup bearings but I am worried that the shims could get loose.

Which is the proper way?
 
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I know a regearing job is not like changing a lightbulb. With all the help from you guys it is a possible task.

While watching some videos and reading some how-to guides I came up with an other question:

Sometimes the shims are between the carrier and the bearing, so you need some setup bearings to get the right wear pattern and backlash. But some guys are putting the shims between the bearing and the differentialhousing. The second way eliminates the need for setup bearings but I am worried that the shims could get loose.

Which is the proper way?
In many instances the shims are inboard shims, meaning they go between carrier and bearing. In some cases, like the later TJs, and on the JK D44s, the shims are outboard shims (between bearing and housing).

What you need depends on what you have. However in some instances, like with some ARB models, you actually end up converting from one style to another. This is model specific and not a rule of thumb.
 
...but I am worried that the shims could get loose.
Don't worry about this happening. The carrier will be installed with a decent amount of preload on the bearings. This will end up holding those shims in place. With the proper preload, those shims aren't going anywhere.
 
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