cr0sh

Member
Joined
May 7, 2017
Messages
71
Location
Glendale, AZ, United States
Ok, all - this weekend I decided to install a few things on my 2004 TJ - all LED based. I recently got new tires, and a Smittybilt SRC classic tire carrier rear bumper (plus a rim to hold one of my old tires so I now have a full-sized spare and not the dorky factory spare - I only say that because the old spare was OEM, while my old tires were 33s on 17 inch Fuel rims - and it looked weird) - but I needed a replacement for the third brake light.

Long story short, I fabricated a bracket to mount into the holes on the vertical of the carrier, and mounted one of the oblong trailer LED lights; it actually looks pretty sweet. Got it all hooked up and it works great. In my opinion, it looks like something I bought (ok, parts were bought, but fabrication also happened).

I also decided to upgrade my turn signals and brake lights to LED as well. I started with the front side markers first. Swapped 'em out, and tested, blinking fine - all seemed ok. I then swapped out the front turn-signal lights for LEDs. Tested - and...hyperflash. I was aware that this was probably going to happen, so I had purchased a relay. Unfortunately, I think the relay I bought has led me to my current trouble.

I had bought a 4-pin flasher relay meant for LED lights; when I pulled the old relay from under the steering wheel cover, I noticed it had 5 pins. I wasn't sure if this was going to be an issue, so I popped in the new relay, and tested the signals. Well, everything seemed ok - left and right blinked properly, emergency flasher blinked properly, brakes still lit up right. All seemed ok...until later in the evening.

I went to turn on my headlights - and my turn signal indicators on my dash were both lit up! I found that this happened whether I had only the running lights on, or if I had my headlights on. Using my turn signal at this point would cause things to flash properly, but my side markers remained dark without the turn signal running (otherwise they'd flash properly). My front signal light would go from bright-to-dim when "flashing" (not sure if this is correct, but I think it is).

I think my problem is that flasher relay - I need a proper 5-pin relay. I ordered one on Amazon, plus (as a "just in case that don't work" move) some load resistors (to use the original relay). I also ordered some other LED tail lights because the originals I bought were red only, and I didn't realize that the bulb also served to light up the license plate at the same time, and so needed to be white in color. I had replace my reverse lights with LEDs as well (they worked ok), but they weren't very bright, so I bought some others to replace them too. All of that is supposed to come on Monday - so I'll swap it all out and hopefully that will fix my dashboard issue.

I guess my question at this point is whether anyone else thinks that was the issue - that the reason my side markers weren't working when my headlights or running lights were on, plus my dashboard indicators remaining on when no signaling happened, were because I didn't have a 5-pin flasher relay in place?

Also - one other question, if anyone knows the answer:

In the process of doing all of this, I didn't have handy any "answers" or a book, and was purely going on what I had remembered, that the flasher relay was either under the column panel, or under the upper panel (I had ended up removing both before finding it was under the upper one, oh well). As I was trying to figure things out, I ended up pulling something which I probably shouldn't have, but I got it back together ok. I was wondering if anyone knew what it was?

Basically, toward the right (toward the passenger side) next to the flasher relay socket, was another device. It had a cover on it, which came off as I removed the whole thing - which was some kind of circuit board attached using some spring clips, that slipped over pins (I didn't count 'em, but it seemed like there were about 8 pins) protruding from the column module. I noticed that when I used the turn signals, it was "clicking" as well. On the board was a smaller relay, plus a multi-turn potentiometer (IIRC).

My thought was that this module was the actual "flasher" and that the "flasher relay" was just that, a bog standard 5 pin Bosch automotive relay. Being electronic, this flasher uses some kind of current sensing (basically the resistance of the light bulbs) to determine flashing frequency. But I was wondering about the potentiometer? If this device is the actual flasher, does that potentiometer determine the flash rate? In other words, if this is true, could we just replace the bulbs with LEDs, leave the standard relay in place, then re-adjust the potentiometer to slow the hyperflash down?

Of course, I could be completely wrong in what this device is - but it was definitely a curious item (and covered with some kind of weird grease - I can only guess some form of dielectric compound). I just wanted to know if anyone else here knows, because I had read on other forums about modifying certain circuits to change the flash rate - and it seemed like this board was similar to the pictures I recall...

Thank you all for any light you can shed here!
 
If/when you do LED brake/tail lights on your TJ, you will need to also replace your flasher relay with one compatible with the low amperage LED bulbs for about $20.



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Ok, all - this weekend I decided to install a few things on my 2004 TJ - all LED based. I recently got new tires, and a Smittybilt SRC classic tire carrier rear bumper (plus a rim to hold one of my old tires so I now have a full-sized spare and not the dorky factory spare - I only say that because the old spare was OEM, while my old tires were 33s on 17 inch Fuel rims - and it looked weird) - but I needed a replacement for the third brake light.

Long story short, I fabricated a bracket to mount into the holes on the vertical of the carrier, and mounted one of the oblong trailer LED lights; it actually looks pretty sweet. Got it all hooked up and it works great. In my opinion, it looks like something I bought (ok, parts were bought, but fabrication also happened).

I also decided to upgrade my turn signals and brake lights to LED as well. I started with the front side markers first. Swapped 'em out, and tested, blinking fine - all seemed ok. I then swapped out the front turn-signal lights for LEDs. Tested - and...hyperflash. I was aware that this was probably going to happen, so I had purchased a relay. Unfortunately, I think the relay I bought has led me to my current trouble.

I had bought a 4-pin flasher relay meant for LED lights; when I pulled the old relay from under the steering wheel cover, I noticed it had 5 pins. I wasn't sure if this was going to be an issue, so I popped in the new relay, and tested the signals. Well, everything seemed ok - left and right blinked properly, emergency flasher blinked properly, brakes still lit up right. All seemed ok...until later in the evening.

I went to turn on my headlights - and my turn signal indicators on my dash were both lit up! I found that this happened whether I had only the running lights on, or if I had my headlights on. Using my turn signal at this point would cause things to flash properly, but my side markers remained dark without the turn signal running (otherwise they'd flash properly). My front signal light would go from bright-to-dim when "flashing" (not sure if this is correct, but I think it is).

I think my problem is that flasher relay - I need a proper 5-pin relay. I ordered one on Amazon, plus (as a "just in case that don't work" move) some load resistors (to use the original relay). I also ordered some other LED tail lights because the originals I bought were red only, and I didn't realize that the bulb also served to light up the license plate at the same time, and so needed to be white in color. I had replace my reverse lights with LEDs as well (they worked ok), but they weren't very bright, so I bought some others to replace them too. All of that is supposed to come on Monday - so I'll swap it all out and hopefully that will fix my dashboard issue.

I guess my question at this point is whether anyone else thinks that was the issue - that the reason my side markers weren't working when my headlights or running lights were on, plus my dashboard indicators remaining on when no signaling happened, were because I didn't have a 5-pin flasher relay in place?

Also - one other question, if anyone knows the answer:

In the process of doing all of this, I didn't have handy any "answers" or a book, and was purely going on what I had remembered, that the flasher relay was either under the column panel, or under the upper panel (I had ended up removing both before finding it was under the upper one, oh well). As I was trying to figure things out, I ended up pulling something which I probably shouldn't have, but I got it back together ok. I was wondering if anyone knew what it was?

Basically, toward the right (toward the passenger side) next to the flasher relay socket, was another device. It had a cover on it, which came off as I removed the whole thing - which was some kind of circuit board attached using some spring clips, that slipped over pins (I didn't count 'em, but it seemed like there were about 8 pins) protruding from the column module. I noticed that when I used the turn signals, it was "clicking" as well. On the board was a smaller relay, plus a multi-turn potentiometer (IIRC).

My thought was that this module was the actual "flasher" and that the "flasher relay" was just that, a bog standard 5 pin Bosch automotive relay. Being electronic, this flasher uses some kind of current sensing (basically the resistance of the light bulbs) to determine flashing frequency. But I was wondering about the potentiometer? If this device is the actual flasher, does that potentiometer determine the flash rate? In other words, if this is true, could we just replace the bulbs with LEDs, leave the standard relay in place, then re-adjust the potentiometer to slow the hyperflash down?

Of course, I could be completely wrong in what this device is - but it was definitely a curious item (and covered with some kind of weird grease - I can only guess some form of dielectric compound). I just wanted to know if anyone else here knows, because I had read on other forums about modifying certain circuits to change the flash rate - and it seemed like this board was similar to the pictures I recall...

Thank you all for any light you can shed here!
When I bought my 2001 TJ someone's had put just one led turn signal in the front driver side, worked fine until night time and I had to use my head lights.

I figured the led didn't have enough resistance to let the state know all was ok.. so out it came, replaced with normal and all was ok.

I do have the led brake lights, turn signals though and all is fine, maybe they put a new relay in at the same time as it was how I bought it.

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Well, after my initial attempt, I tried some changes last night to try to fix my issues. First, I ordered some new LED bulbs for the rear - all white, 2x 1156 and 2x 1157; the original reverse lamps (1156) I had weren't bright enough, and the brake lights (1157) I had gotten were red, and needed to be white for illuminating the license plate.

I had also purchased a different flasher relay - one with 5 pins:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06Y1XKBFZ/?tag=wranglerorg-20

When I installed it with my new rear LED bulbs (1157) - here's how things went with the new 5-pin flasher unit (spoiler alert: not well):

1. With only one rear brake lamp in place, leaving the other lamp with a regular bulb - everything worked fine: No hyperflash, signal indicator lights on dash stayed off, hazards worked ok. Signal with brakes, though, didn't change anything - the LED turn signal continued to blink; not dim-bright-dim-bright but on-off-on-off (I'm not certain if this is how the original bulbs worked?), while the non-turn signal lamp stayed solid and bright "braking".

2. So I added the second LED bulb to the other side. This is where things went wonky:

No hyperflash, and the signal indicator lights on the dash stayed off, but when the left signal flashed, every other flash the right signal would "pulse" a few times flashing the lights on that side; signalling in the opposite direction did the same, just opposite. If I tried to turn on the hazard lights, the relay would just buzz, and no lights came on at all.

So - I re-installed the old replacement relay. This is where it is interesting to me: @Chris mentioned that I needed to get this relay:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000JZ79NC/?tag=wranglerorg-20

But that was the original 4-prong relay I had purchased which didn't work for me last week (I just checked). It seems to work ok in every way except the signal indicator lights on the dash stay on (when the running lights and/or the main headlights are turned on). I decided to stick with that for now until I could get things sorted out (probably this coming weekend I'll take another crack at it).

So that's where I stand currently. I was contemplating installing some load resistors I bought, but everything I am reading is saying "don't do this except as a last resort" - so I'm going to shelve that for now. I think (?) maybe that the 4-prong EP26 relay will work, but maybe my problem has to do with another issue:

I read another thread (somewhere) about the fender signal lamps using a "floating ground" - where they act one way when the running lights/headlights are off, and another when they are on. With normal lamps that don't care about polarity, this isn't an issue - but with some LED replacement bulbs (type 194) - those do care about polarity. If you install them one way, things don't work quite right (or maybe at all?) but if you install them the other way, they "kinda" work in some scenarios. I am pretty certain that my LEDs are polarized. There was discussion of there being a "3-wire" variant that is non-polarized, as well as the idea of taking two of them and putting them "back to back" and opposite polarity so that they essentially act like a regular bulb.

So my thoughts are now to try to replace those bulbs using my original 194 bulbs, and seeing if that fixes my dash indicator lamp issue; if it does, then I'll try putting back the brake light (1157) LED bulbs, and seeing if those work. If they do, then maybe it's the polarity issue thing that is messing it up. At that point, I'll have to figure out how I want to solve the issue.

If that isn't the case - then my options are to a) get the "gold coast" relay and drop the coin there, or b) modify my factory "relay" as outlined on Stu's site, or c) shudder - use the load resistors.

I suppose that I could also futz around with stuff and get it to work "almost" - to the point of not having dash lights on, but with some of my lights being non-LED (or change out everything back to regular lamps and deal with it).

I think, though, that I am close with the EP26 relay - I just need to figure out why it doesn't like the rear bulbs being LEDs, whether the side markers (or even front indicators) are playing some role in this whole thing, and why the dash indicators are staying on. My theory on the dash indicators was because it was a 4-pin and not 5-pin (note - my TJ is a 2004; I seem to recall (?) that the EP26 was only for 2001 and prior?).

Whatever - at least I can take some solace in knowing that this problem isn't unknown, and a lot of people have dealt with it over the years. I'll get it figured out in some manner I hope!

:D
 
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@cr0sh, one thing I will add, my turn signal indicators wouldn't work when I added LED bulbs to the side marker lights (the ones on the fender flares). As soon as I switched those back to the factory bulbs, everything worked fine (this was even with the EP26 relay).

It has something to do with the floating ground, but since I suck at electronics, I wasn't going to try to figure it out. If you (or anyone) figures out the solution, I'd love to know, because then I could swap those bulbs out for LEDs. However, for now I'm just going to have to be happy with all LEDs, EXCEPT the side markers.
 
@Chris If that is true - then that's good news, and something I'll have to try when I get some time (right now during the week by the time I get home it is dark and the last thing I want to mess with is the lighting on my Jeep). I had a suspicion that was the cause, as I read more things about this problem on the internet.

So - what I would try next would be to either get some non-polarized 194 LEDs - like these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076J5WXLF/?tag=wranglerorg-20

...or take the ones you have, and solder them together in such a manner as to put them "back to back" to simulate a non-polarized LED bulb. Let me know if you need more help understanding what I mean by this (it's pretty simple, actually). It may actually be easier, though, to just purchase the non-polarized version.

To hedge my bets, I went ahead and purchased the Gold Coast relay for the 2004 TJ - and the bulbs above. The GC relay is a 5-prong relay, and is supposed to be the "cure all" - but at a relatively hefty price (about $30.00 all in for it). Honestly, though, I don't consider that too terrible (one of these days I will probably bite the bullet and do a Dana 44 swap - that's going to be painful in the wallet, certainly).

The only downside to all this purchasing is that I'm going to be left with a bunch of LED bulbs and one or more flasher relays I don't have an immediate use for. Oh well!

:)
 
@cr0sh, what is a non-polarized LED? Again, I'm pretty stupid when it comes to electronics. I get the basics, but when it came to people talking about floating grounds and this and that, I just got confused. Putting LEDs in the side markers is definitely the issue though. When I put them in mine, it caused the turn signals not to work at all. However, I took them out, and presto, they worked! So I've just been keeping the standard bulbs in there until I figured something out.

Let me know if what you end up doing works, because if so, I'll follow your lead and do the same thing. Those are the only lights on my TJ that haven't been converted to LED bulbs yet!

You will have a bunch of LED bulbs left over, but the nice thing is that most of them are pretty cheap these days, so you hopefully won't have spent too much.
 
@cr0sh, what is a non-polarized LED? Again, I'm pretty stupid when it comes to electronics. I get the basics, but when it came to people talking about floating grounds and this and that, I just got confused.

I can understand it being confusing - I get confused by a lot of the technical terms and such used by mechanics and others when talking about stuff like that, so I know where you're coming from. So - here's the basics:

The term "LED" stands to "Light Emitting Diode" - the key there is the last part; it's a diode. Diodes in general have many uses, and most don't light up, but one of their main uses is to only allow DC current to flow in one direction. This is called "rectification" - and is very useful; for instance, in a vehicle's alternator, there are several diodes inside (sometimes outside - but on the TJ they are internal to the alternator) that change the current from 3-phase AC to essentially DC current, so the battery can be charged, etc.

What happens when you try to run the current backwards thru a diode? Well - nothing, the current doesn't flow, it's blocked (in truth, some current flows, but it is a very tiny amount, unless the voltage goes over what is called the "reverse bias breakdown voltage", which is generally hundreds or thousands of volts) - the diode only allows the current to flow in one direction.

So - on an LED - what happens is when you hook it up properly, with the current flowing in the right direction - it lights up. But if you don't hook it up properly, it stays off. So what exactly is a "non-polarized LED"? Well - generally it's two LEDs flipped on each other - so the "positive" lead is connected to the negative lead, and vice-versa. Apply current in one direction, one LED lights up and the other stays dark. Do it in the other direction, and the opposite LED lights up, and the other stays dark. But since we are talking about LEDs, which are small semiconduction junctions - both LEDs can be encapsulated within the same package - so it looks like a single "LED" - but it's really two bonded together! In fact, there are some LEDs out there that are done this way that are each a different color - usually one is red and the other is green. So by hooking the LED up, you can tell whether you are dealing with positive or negative "flowing" DC voltage, or alternating current (AC) voltage (at slow alternations of polarity - below say 10 Hz - you see the LED flashing red, green, red, etc - but at higher frequencies, the red and the green blur together, and you see yellow).

But there are other ways to do this, because most LEDs aren't like this - they are "one way" only. The way you do it is to take the LEDs, and flip one around so that it's positive lead connects to the negative of the other, and it's negative connects to the positive of the other. I'd imagine that some LED bulbs that are "non-polarized" also do this with the individual LED chips soldered to the PCB that makes up the body of the "bulb", as it would be cheaper to do it this way. Others might use other diodes to "steer" the current in the proper direction depending on how it is hooked up.

So - by being "non-polarized" - they basically simulate how a regular bulb works, which doesn't care about the polarity of the current flowing through it in order to light up. I hope that all made sense - if not, try this thread:

https://goo.gl/fFf2BX

Note about the above link - it goes to an article on the Wrangler Forum - but for some reason this site is censoring that URL, like below:

http://*********************/f210/t...lling-leds-as-side-marker-lights-1163153.html

Anyone know why? Mods? Is there some kind of rule I am breaking? I dunno, but I don't mean to if that's the case, but the information at the link is relevant to this discussion...

...and these links:

http://www.explainthatstuff.com/diodes.html

http://www.talkingelectronics.com/projects/Diode - How A Diode Works/How A Diode Works.html

http://www.hobbyprojects.com/the_diode/steering_diode.html

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rectifier

http://image.cpsimg.com/sites/carparts-mc/assets/classroom/images/charging_alternatorcircuit.gif

Something else I found when I was doing some googling - apparently these "non-polarized" LED bulbs are referred to as "switchback" bulbs - so you might google around with that term, too.

This is an image of a schematic of back-to-back connected LEDs - note the LED symbol, which is a triangle with a line - showing it to be polarized:

http://trainelectronics.com/artcles/ditch_lights/images/paralled_LEDs.gif

You may also notice the resistor in series with each LED - in an LED bulb (whether polarized or not), the resistors are already soldered on the PCB board body of the "bulb"; they are sized based on the voltage of circuit (so you'd need a different size resistor if powering the LED off 6V vs 12V) and the voltage drop of the LED itself, because LEDs are controlled by the current flowing thru them, not the voltage. This current needs to be kept within a certain range, or the LED will burn out. On high-power LEDs (like those used on lightbars), the current is controlled using special regulator circuits, because a simple resistor won't work long-term (resistors regulate current by dumping it as heat - fine for small amounts of current, but for power hogs like multi-watt LEDs, that won't work).


Putting LEDs in the side markers is definitely the issue though. When I put them in mine, it caused the turn signals not to work at all. However, I took them out, and presto, they worked! So I've just been keeping the standard bulbs in there until I figured something out.

Again, if that's the case, then maybe back-to-back or non-polarized LEDs will work and make these problems go away. I just don't know if other issues will crop up, or if the hazard lights still won't work, or who knows what else...

Let me know if what you end up doing works, because if so, I'll follow your lead and do the same thing. Those are the only lights on my TJ that haven't been converted to LED bulbs yet!

I'll definitely post back to this thread when I find out what happens - don't worry about that!

You will have a bunch of LED bulbs left over, but the nice thing is that most of them are pretty cheap these days, so you hopefully won't have spent too much.

Fortunately they are fairly common bulb types, so maybe I can put a few in my VehiCROSS. Worst case, I have some more LED parts to play with, or I can give them to some friends of mine - maybe they can do something with 'em!
 
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I can understand it being confusing - I get confused by a lot of the technical terms and such used by mechanics and others when talking about stuff like that, so I know where you're coming from. So - here's the basics:

The term "LED" stands to "Light Emitting Diode" - the key there is the last part; it's a diode. Diodes in general have many uses, and most don't light up, but one of their main uses is to only allow DC current to flow in one direction. This is called "rectification" - and is very useful; for instance, in a vehicle's alternator, there are several diodes inside (sometimes outside - but on the TJ they are internal to the alternator) that change the current from 3-phase AC to essentially DC current, so the battery can be charged, etc.

What happens when you try to run the current backwards thru a diode? Well - nothing, the current doesn't flow, it's blocked (in truth, some current flows, but it is a very tiny amount, unless the voltage goes over what is called the "reverse bias breakdown voltage", which is generally hundreds or thousands of volts) - the diode only allows the current to flow in one direction.

So - on an LED - what happens is when you hook it up properly, with the current flowing in the right direction - it lights up. But if you don't hook it up properly, it stays off. So what exactly is a "non-polarized LED"? Well - generally it's two LEDs flipped on each other - so the "positive" lead is connected to the negative lead, and vice-versa. Apply current in one direction, one LED lights up and the other stays dark. Do it in the other direction, and the opposite LED lights up, and the other stays dark. But since we are talking about LEDs, which are small semiconduction junctions - both LEDs can be encapsulated within the same package - so it looks like a single "LED" - but it's really two bonded together! In fact, there are some LEDs out there that are done this way that are each a different color - usually one is red and the other is green. So by hooking the LED up, you can tell whether you are dealing with positive or negative "flowing" DC voltage, or alternating current (AC) voltage (at slow alternations of polarity - below say 10 Hz - you see the LED flashing red, green, red, etc - but at higher frequencies, the red and the green blur together, and you see yellow).

But there are other ways to do this, because most LEDs aren't like this - they are "one way" only. The way you do it is to take the LEDs, and flip one around so that it's positive lead connects to the negative of the other, and it's negative connects to the positive of the other. I'd imagine that some LED bulbs that are "non-polarized" also do this with the individual LED chips soldered to the PCB that makes up the body of the "bulb", as it would be cheaper to do it this way. Others might use other diodes to "steer" the current in the proper direction depending on how it is hooked up.

So - by being "non-polarized" - they basically simulate how a regular bulb works, which doesn't care about the polarity of the current flowing through it in order to light up. I hope that all made sense - if not, try this thread:

https://goo.gl/fFf2BX

Note about the above link - it goes to an article on the Wrangler Forum - but for some reason this site is censoring that URL, like below:

http://*********************/f210/t...lling-leds-as-side-marker-lights-1163153.html

Anyone know why? Mods? Is there some kind of rule I am breaking? I dunno, but I don't mean to if that's the case, but the information at the link is relevant to this discussion...

...and these links:

http://www.explainthatstuff.com/diodes.html

http://www.talkingelectronics.com/projects/Diode - How A Diode Works/How A Diode Works.html

http://www.hobbyprojects.com/the_diode/steering_diode.html

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rectifier

http://image.cpsimg.com/sites/carparts-mc/assets/classroom/images/charging_alternatorcircuit.gif

Something else I found when I was doing some googling - apparently these "non-polarized" LED bulbs are referred to as "switchback" bulbs - so you might google around with that term, too.

This is an image of a schematic of back-to-back connected LEDs - note the LED symbol, which is a triangle with a line - showing it to be polarized:

http://trainelectronics.com/artcles/ditch_lights/images/paralled_LEDs.gif

You may also notice the resistor in series with each LED - in an LED bulb (whether polarized or not), the resistors are already soldered on the PCB board body of the "bulb"; they are sized based on the voltage of circuit (so you'd need a different size resistor if powering the LED off 6V vs 12V) and the voltage drop of the LED itself, because LEDs are controlled by the current flowing thru them, not the voltage. This current needs to be kept within a certain range, or the LED will burn out. On high-power LEDs (like those used on lightbars), the current is controlled using special regulator circuits, because a simple resistor won't work long-term (resistors regulate current by dumping it as heat - fine for small amounts of current, but for power hogs like multi-watt LEDs, that won't work).




Again, if that's the case, then maybe back-to-back or non-polarized LEDs will work and make these problems go away. I just don't know if other issues will crop up, or if the hazard lights still won't work, or who knows what else...



I'll definitely post back to this thread when I find out what happens - don't worry about that!



Fortunately they are fairly common bulb types, so maybe I can put a few in my VehiCROSS. Worst case, I have some more LED parts to play with, or I can give them to some friends of mine - maybe they can do something with 'em!

Wow, thanks for the lesson there, I know what I'll be reading about tonight! Very valuable information, I appreciate it.

Most of us (myself included) would never think there was more to LEDs than just plugging them in and calling it a day. Of course as you and I have both found out (and probably many others as well), it's not that easy on a vehicle that was designed for regular incandescent bulbs!
 
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@Chris So today my non-polarized 194 LEDs came in the mail:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076J5WXLF/?tag=wranglerorg-20

...so I thought I would play with them, using what I currently have on hand. Just to re-iterate what my setup is currently:

1. EP26 4-prong flasher relay (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000JZ79NC/?tag=wranglerorg-20) - ie, non-OEM
2. Rear turn/brake lights are standard 1157 bulbs
3. Front turn signals are LEDs
4. Front fender signals are polarized 194 LEDs

The good news? Well, using these non-polarized 194 LEDs in place of the polarized 194 LEDs:

1. They are actually non-polarized (I tried plugging them in both ways - the old ones only worked when plugged in one way)

2. They work properly with the front turn signals: When you have your running and/or headlights on, they alternate flashing with the front turn signals, staying on when not signaling. When the running lights are NOT on, they flash with the front turn signals, staying off when not signaling. Basically acting just like regular 194 bulbs do.

That's where the good news ends. So what bad news?

1. The dashboard turn signal indicators stay on when the running/headlights are on (just like the old 194 LEDs with the EP26)

2. I tried to swap in the 1157 white LED bulbs I had, leaving the EP26 in place (ie, 100% LEDs for signals), but doing that, signals wouldn't work at all - no flashing, nothing.

3. I tried swapping in the old 194 bulbs in place of the non-polarized LEDs on the fender signal lights, leaving the LED 1157s in place - same result.

4. I then tried my other relay (the non-OEM 5-pin LED relay I bought), and while things flashed, only the fronts did, the rears didn't do anything (and stayed dark, actually, when the running lights or headlights were on!), but there was "opposite side" flickering - and weirdly, the dash odometer display also flickered (first time I have seen that).

Things worked ok (aside from the dashboard turn signal indicators staying on when the running/headlights are on), only if I had the original 1157 bulbs in place on the rear lights.

I have a theory (only a theory - I haven't tested the truth of it) that the rear lights somehow also share that floating ground, and/or they share something with the front LEDs, and that all of the LEDs need to be non-polarized in order for them to work. I don't honestly know if my other bulbs are polarized or not, but I suspect they are. I may play with them some more to see what I can figure out, if anything.

Unfortunately, my GC relay is on the slower boat I guess; according to tracking it is somewhere around Oxnard, CA - so maybe I might get it by the weekend, maybe sooner.

If that doesn't work, then I'm going to have to either find non-polarized LEDs for everything in this signal mess, or get creative in some manner.

Update: Checked my LED bulbs that I had bought (all of 'em) - most were polarized, except for the red 1157's I bought, and the white 1157's that I replaced them with. Actually, the white 1157's are only partially non-polarized:

With negative on the body, and positive to each terminal - like they'd be normally - one terminal is for bright, the other terminal is dim.

But if you swap the polarity, both terminals turn on as "bright" - but at least they turn on.

The only LEDs that I bought that I haven't tested yet are the ones in the front signal lamp housings, because they are mounted on the TJ, and I only bought a pair of 'em. I'll probably test 'em later - but the Amazon listing for them:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073NZG3B9/?tag=wranglerorg-20

...don't say anything about polarity - and they are a part of that whole "floating ground" circuit; I'm not sure if that might be part of the issue, if they are polarized...
 
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Ihave Max-Bilt LED taillights, LED headlights, LED fog lights and everything works fine. The Max-Bilt came with an LED relay and worked but clicked three times after every use, a little anoying but livable. Chris recommended relay EP26 and works perfect, thanks Chris. I tried Partsam 3157 LED “switchback” Front turn signals from Amazon and they screwed up the turn signal interval and opposite side that should be off flickered brightly during TS interval, so unusable. I thought it be cool if the switchback actually worked to have some extra bright light on the trail on the sides of the fender. If you guys figure this out let me know otherwise I’m gonna return it and just go back to standard incandescent bulbs. Chris, what LED turn signal lights did you buy that work with your system?
 
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That is a ton of great info. I did mine and tried the resisortor way and failed, I put 4in round out back, 2in rear marker, 4in rectangular in the front . Ultimately I did the relay cut method and it worked flawlessly.
 
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@Chris So today my non-polarized 194 LEDs came in the mail:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076J5WXLF/?tag=wranglerorg-20

...so I thought I would play with them, using what I currently have on hand. Just to re-iterate what my setup is currently:

1. EP26 4-prong flasher relay (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000JZ79NC/?tag=wranglerorg-20) - ie, non-OEM
2. Rear turn/brake lights are standard 1157 bulbs
3. Front turn signals are LEDs
4. Front fender signals are polarized 194 LEDs

The good news? Well, using these non-polarized 194 LEDs in place of the polarized 194 LEDs:

1. They are actually non-polarized (I tried plugging them in both ways - the old ones only worked when plugged in one way)

2. They work properly with the front turn signals: When you have your running and/or headlights on, they alternate flashing with the front turn signals, staying on when not signaling. When the running lights are NOT on, they flash with the front turn signals, staying off when not signaling. Basically acting just like regular 194 bulbs do.

That's where the good news ends. So what bad news?

1. The dashboard turn signal indicators stay on when the running/headlights are on (just like the old 194 LEDs with the EP26)

2. I tried to swap in the 1157 white LED bulbs I had, leaving the EP26 in place (ie, 100% LEDs for signals), but doing that, signals wouldn't work at all - no flashing, nothing.

3. I tried swapping in the old 194 bulbs in place of the non-polarized LEDs on the fender signal lights, leaving the LED 1157s in place - same result.

4. I then tried my other relay (the non-OEM 5-pin LED relay I bought), and while things flashed, only the fronts did, the rears didn't do anything (and stayed dark, actually, when the running lights or headlights were on!), but there was "opposite side" flickering - and weirdly, the dash odometer display also flickered (first time I have seen that).

Things worked ok (aside from the dashboard turn signal indicators staying on when the running/headlights are on), only if I had the original 1157 bulbs in place on the rear lights.

I have a theory (only a theory - I haven't tested the truth of it) that the rear lights somehow also share that floating ground, and/or they share something with the front LEDs, and that all of the LEDs need to be non-polarized in order for them to work. I don't honestly know if my other bulbs are polarized or not, but I suspect they are. I may play with them some more to see what I can figure out, if anything.

Unfortunately, my GC relay is on the slower boat I guess; according to tracking it is somewhere around Oxnard, CA - so maybe I might get it by the weekend, maybe sooner.

If that doesn't work, then I'm going to have to either find non-polarized LEDs for everything in this signal mess, or get creative in some manner.

Update: Checked my LED bulbs that I had bought (all of 'em) - most were polarized, except for the red 1157's I bought, and the white 1157's that I replaced them with. Actually, the white 1157's are only partially non-polarized:

With negative on the body, and positive to each terminal - like they'd be normally - one terminal is for bright, the other terminal is dim.

But if you swap the polarity, both terminals turn on as "bright" - but at least they turn on.

The only LEDs that I bought that I haven't tested yet are the ones in the front signal lamp housings, because they are mounted on the TJ, and I only bought a pair of 'em. I'll probably test 'em later - but the Amazon listing for them:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073NZG3B9/?tag=wranglerorg-20

...don't say anything about polarity - and they are a part of that whole "floating ground" circuit; I'm not sure if that might be part of the issue, if they are polarized...

Great information, thanks for the update. I am curious to see if you end up solving this issue, as I will follow your lead. I say that because even without the 194 LED light replacements in the side markers, my turn signal indicators in the gauge cluster both stay dimly lit (both of them, not just one) when you turn on the parking lights. It doesn't affect the turn signal function or any of the other LED lights (i.e. taillights), but it is a rather annoying little issue that I've been living with for several years now.

Before giving up on this, I had read a lot into it having something to do with floating grounds, but I never found any thread that gave a conclusive answer as to what the solution is. So if you are the one that comes up with that answer, I'm going to have to sticky this thread so that others can end up finding it easier! You can I can't be the only one who have run into this. It doesn't seem to happen until you start replacing all the light bulbs with LEDs. When I had just the headlights and taillights, I don't remember having this issue. It was once I added the front turn signal LED bulbs that I believe I noticed it. It was years ago, but I want to say that's what did it.
 
Ok - here's an update on my progress; it's probably "as good as it gets" for now. Again, my TJ is a 2004 - so keep that in mind.

1. So I purchased one of the "Gold Coast" relays - for the 2004 TJ: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FIO6CUK/?tag=wranglerorg-20

2. I also purchased different non-polarized 194 LED lights: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076J5WXLF/?tag=wranglerorg-20

3. I tested my front turn signal LED lights (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073NZG3B9/?tag=wranglerorg-20) to see if they were polarized or non-polarized - they were non-polarized

4. Something I learned about these bulbs, which are "3157/3156/etc" equivalents - there are apparently two different plug styles: a "standard" style, and a style called "CK": https://imgur.com/a/iZPrL

5. Fortunately, the 2004 TJ is "standard" - the the LED lights I purchased (see #3) are designed to work in any kind of socket - I literally tried every combination of wiring and polarity with the LED using a small 12 volt gel-cell and all lit the bulb up, no matter what pair of connectors or polarity I used.

6. So with the new 194 LEDs installed, plus the new relay - what happened? Well, nothing good. Basically, the relay was "blinking" (clicking) but the LEDs stayed "solid" - they didn't blink. Swapping with the original 3157 bulbs did work and things blinked correctly. I surmised that I needed an extra load on the circuit, because the 3157 LEDs I had were just not pulling enough current.

7. Sigh. I had purchased a set of four load resistors (each 6 ohm, 50 watts), as a "just in case nothing else works": https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UNG3EXQ/?tag=wranglerorg-20

8. The wires of the load resistors are heat resistant, fortunately. I figured I only needed the resistors for the blinker side of things, and the TJ's connector had three wires going into it. By only putting them on the blinker wires, they wouldn't be dumping heat constantly when I was using the running lights or headlight - only when I was signalling. A bit of multi-meter detective work, and it turned out that the outside two wires on the harness to the lamp plugs were the correct pair.

9. So I wired a resistor in parallel across these two wires. I ended up using the provided scotch-lock connectors, but others may want to do something else (crimp connectors or soldering, perhaps). After crimping things up, I wrapped things in electrical tape, plus added some split-loom for extra protection.

10. Note the resistors have tabs with holes - these are meant to mount the resistor to a heatsink (ideally). Inside the TJ's fender is a bracket, and it has an extra convenient hole doing nothing. I ended up bolting the resistors to these holes. Not a true heatsink, but better than just letting them dangle. You may need to enlarge the holes a bit for a proper bolt - I used a drill press for this, the metal is aluminum and easy to ream out with a larger drill bit. You could even do it with a hand drill, I suspect.

11. So - once I got the resistors wired up, how did things fare? Quite well, actually. Not perfect, but I can live with the results:

A. Lights/hazards off - front LEDs blink properly (on/off), but side-markers do almost nothing (brief small flashes - virtually invisible)
B. Lights/hazards on - front LEDs blink properly (high/low), side-markers alternate with front
C. Rear LED lights function normally
D. Hazards blink all LEDs properly
E. Dashboard indicators do not stay on at any time
F. When turn signal lever is returned to "off" - relay continues to operate for a few more clicks, but the lights do not flash while this occurs

So there you have it. I found that while the resistors did heat up from using the signals, they would only get "crazy hot" (nothing outside the parameters of what the resistors can endure) if the signals were left on for a very long time. After use, the resistors would cool down properly. I plan on checking things to see if there is any "melting" of insulation or such this upcoming weekend (I have a reverse camera I am going to install, so it will be a perfect time to check).

I'm not sure how things would fare if one were to use the hazards blinkers for a very long time period (ie - how hot the resistors would get), but having them mounted on the fender bracket should help. One might fashion a piece of aluminum as a heatsink, and mount the resistor properly to it (bolting both tabs, and heatsink paste between the aluminum and resistor), then mounting the whole unit to the fender bracket.

I'm not sure if it would be possible to get the side-marker lights to blink properly; it might be possible to parallel them with the signal on the front lights, but they wouldn't light properly for running lights. Or, maybe some kind of steering diode system could be used to get them to light up properly. I'm not sure. Honestly, I don't know why they don't work completely right now; it doesn't make much sense. But it's a very minor thing to me at this point.

So - to recap - here's the list of items I used:

1. 2004 TJ "Gold Coast" Relay - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FIO6CUK/?tag=wranglerorg-20 ($30.00)
2. Front turn signal non-polarized LEDs (3157 yellow): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073NZG3B9/?tag=wranglerorg-20 ($16.00)
3. Front fender signal non-polarized LEDs (194 white): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076J5WXLF/?tag=wranglerorg-20 ($11.00)
4. Rear brake/signal non-polarized LEDs (1157 white): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071DCC7XL/?tag=wranglerorg-20 ($16.00)
5. Rear backup LEDs (1156 white): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0721FNCWP/?tag=wranglerorg-20 ($16.00)
6. Load resistors (6 ohm, 50 watts): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UNG3EXQ/?tag=wranglerorg-20 ($7.00)

So - a total of $96.00 for an LED conversion. Ugh. I hate seeing these numbers (especially knowing I spent even more than this, what with the 194 bulbs I that were polarized, plus the other two relays). Oh well. Those pockets won't empty themselves, right?

I'm not affiliated or anything with any of these items or sellers, these are just what I purchased. I will say that so far, all of these items have appeared to be high quality; I am hopeful that they will last a while. We'll see what happens. All of the LEDs used were of the "non-polarized" variety, so make sure that whatever LEDs you purchase, they are non-polarized.

I also changed out the interior overhead LEDs (what a difference - I can finally see inside the cab now!), and I changed out the bulb in the under-hood lamp to a pair of LEDs. I also have waiting in the wings a GM retractable lamp for under the hood as well:

http://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/electrical/1606-led-revival-of-a-gm-underhood-reel-light/

Prior to my TJ, I had a CK1500 pickup (engine died, leading me to buying the TJ) - and I loved that underhood light. I should've swiped the light from it, but I didn't (stupid me) - so I picked up a used unit off ebay (you could probably pull one from a pick-a-part too), and added an LED bulb. Now I just have to get it installed...
 
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Okay, so it sounds like you mostly solved it @cr0sh, huh? I mean the little stuff you described isn't that bad, and I too could live with it.

I'm no electrical guru, but I wish I knew what the correct way to do it would be (you know, like if it had come with LED lights from the factory, front and rear). I suspect it would have something to do with additional wires in the wiring harness or something... who knows. I'm going to do it the way you did it though and see how it works for me.

The hot resistor thing kind of sketches me out, but then again, I don't sit there with my blinker on forever. I mean the longest I could see is a stop light for a minute or two max, right? You think it would be fine for a minute to two? What's the worst that could happen, something melts? I'll keep an eye on it and make sure nothing is getting hot enough to melt anything.

Thank for posting the parts you used and the follow up as well. I know there are others who are seeking a solution to this problem as well, and this looks like the best solution I've found so far. LED bulbs definitely does make a difference. I like the way they flash much better than incandescent.

I don't blame you for loving the under-hood light. I love mine too, but admittedly, I need to get LED bulbs for it too! What size bulbs are they?
 
9. So I wired a resistor in parallel across these two wires. I ended up using the provided scotch-lock connectors, but others may want to do something else (crimp connectors or soldering, perhaps). After crimping things up, I wrapped things in electrical tape, plus added some split-loom for extra protection.
..

Did you really wire the resistor in parallel? If so, its not working properly. Current, like water, will follow the path of least resistance, so if its truly in parallel, then your current is essentially bypassing the resistor. You would have had to cut the wire to the turn single, and connect the resistor inline (in series) so it will properly place a load on your blinker relay.

upload_2017-12-13_7-56-45.png
 
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...The hot resistor thing kind of sketches me out, but then again, I don't sit there with my blinker on forever. I mean the longest I could see is a stop light for a minute or two max, right? You think it would be fine for a minute to two? What's the worst that could happen, something melts? I'll keep an eye on it and make sure nothing is getting hot enough to melt anything...

I would be concerned about a resistor getting "crazy hot". I know you said your turn signal won't be on for that long, but what about your hazards in an emergency situation?

...I don't blame you for loving the under-hood light. I love mine too, but admittedly, I need to get LED bulbs for it too! What size bulbs are they?...

https://www.superbrightleds.com/veh...bulb?make=39&model=1753&scc_id=1448&year=2004
 
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Okay, so it sounds like you mostly solved it @cr0sh, huh? I mean the little stuff you described isn't that bad, and I too could live with it.

Honestly, I don't think I have - something tells me I got lucky with -my- Jeep, but other's Jeeps are going to be different for some reason. It's almost like Chrysler just randomly picks parts and slaps 'em together or something. At least, that's my gut feeling - I sincerely hope that's not that case, but who knows...

I'm no electrical guru, but I wish I knew what the correct way to do it would be (you know, like if it had come with LED lights from the factory, front and rear). I suspect it would have something to do with additional wires in the wiring harness or something... who knows. I'm going to do it the way you did it though and see how it works for me.

I'm not sure. One thing doing these LED mods eliminates (no way around it) is knowing when a light is out. Because the load is so low with LEDs, which is why you need the special relay (whichever one, depending on your model/year) - and it just blinks with no regard to the load. So an LED lamp dies, it still blinks. With the regular lamps, it would blink faster, and you could hear it, so you'd have an audible and visible indicator of a bad or dead lamp. This is actually something required of manufacturers (not sure by whom - some standards body or something; I don't think its a law or anything, more like a "industry standard" or something). If it is a law or something close to it, probably the NHTSA.

So - you'd need to have some way of recognizing this. I'm not sure how they do it in modern cars, but if it were me, I'd make the lamps (or at least the housings) "smart". They could be wired in the same fashion, but implement them with a CAN-BUS comms, or maybe power-line communications over two DC conductors (basically overlaying a high-frequency AC data signal on top of the DC positive and ground). It would be two way - the housings could monitor the LEDs and such, and report back when one dies. Flashing circuits, dimming, whatever - could all be integrated into the controller at the point of need.

That - or centralize the signal lights - use LED lasers (non-cohered) coupled to fiber-optic light guides, and those would be routed to the lamps. Circuitry for monitoring would then be a part of some controller/power module for the lasers.

The hot resistor thing kind of sketches me out, but then again, I don't sit there with my blinker on forever. I mean the longest I could see is a stop light for a minute or two max, right? You think it would be fine for a minute to two? What's the worst that could happen, something melts? I'll keep an eye on it and make sure nothing is getting hot enough to melt anything.

Again - if this really concerns you, mount the resistor onto a piece of aluminum with heatsink compound, then mount the resistor to the fender bracket. Honestly, I don't know how hot the resistor can or will get after an extended period; I do know in my testing and futzing around when I was installing things, I could put my fingers on it and hold them there for maybe 10-15 seconds without pain, though the resistor was fairly warm. It could probably get a lot hotter, but with it mounted on the bracket, about the only other thing touching it was a bit of the wire bundle plastic split-loom. To be honest, I'm more concerned about water intrusion than heat issues, but that's me.

Thank for posting the parts you used and the follow up as well. I know there are others who are seeking a solution to this problem as well, and this looks like the best solution I've found so far. LED bulbs definitely does make a difference. I like the way they flash much better than incandescent.

I like their brightness and their quick flash; they seem more "attention getting". After I got my rear tire carrier bumper, I needed something to replace the OEM third brake light, so I purchased an oval LED trailer light and bracket:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MTK6DRJ/?tag=wranglerorg-20

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LCVZK7E/?tag=wranglerorg-20

I fab'd up a T-bracket to mount the light bracket on above the tire, and ran wires inside split-loom tubing zip tied to the carrier to the third brake light contacts. One thing I meant to do, but forgot (on my list to do soon) was to put in-line a third brake light flasher, like this one:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I4J35HY/?tag=wranglerorg-20

You've likely seen these on other vehicles (some cars have 'em OEM). I think they help drivers behind you notice you being stopped.
 
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