LED turn signals, brake lights, etc

[cr0sh]

Did you really wire the resistor in parallel? If so, its not working properly. Current, like water, will follow the path of least resistance, so if its truly in parallel, then your current is essentially bypassing the resistor. You would have had to cut the wire to the turn single, and connect the resistor inline (in series) so it will properly place a load on your blinker relay.

Parallel with the "bulb", across the load, between the positive and ground wires:

https://imgur.com/AvGQ2EU

In this manner, both the resistor and the LED draw current together - like so:

https://www.allaboutcircuits.com/tools/parallel-resistance-calculator/

The resistance of the LED isn't much, and the resistor I used is only 6 ohms, which is also very little resistance. It certainly isn't being bypassed (otherwise it wouldn't get warm like it does). It worked for me, and caused the relay to work properly and the signal to blink. That's about all I can say...

 

[cr0sh]

I would be concerned about a resistor getting "crazy hot". I know you said your turn signal won't be on for that long, but what about your hazards in an emergency situation?

If there's a concern, mount it on a heatsink and route all the wires away from the surface of the resistor. The resistors I used already had about 6 inch lengths of heat-resistant insulated wires soldered to them; those could be extended using silicone insulated wires if you wanted. Or you could follow the wire loom back to wherever, and maybe find a better spot to mount the resistor. Honestly, I thought the fender bracket worked well, myself.

 

[cr0sh]

Just a small update - my blinker lights and everything are still working well, and I haven't noticed any heat issues with the resistors (no melting or burning of anything). That said, I've never left them on flashing (ie - emergency flashers) for any real length of time to know whether that situation would be an issue. I suspect that with them out of the way like that, there probably wouldn't be an issue, but it's an unknown to me. All in all, the fix has worked well.

 

[Dennis Velez]

Has anyone tried these. Then would just need to figure out the front turn signals.

http://jeepledlights.com

 

[cr0sh]

Has anyone tried these. Then would just need to figure out the front turn signals.

http://jeepledlights.com

For some reason your link is throwing an error when I directly click on it (but some URL editing saves the day).

$160.00 (or more depending on if you need a flasher) for a pair of lenses and LED lights seem steep to me; there's no telling how it would effect installing LEDs for the other marker lights, or how they would ultimately work.

Considering that replacement LED "bulbs" (and resistors) will run you only $100.00 - and you get all the bulbs replaced (though with more labor involved), the decision of whether the extra money and only having the rear lights done (plus perhaps the more modern look?) is worth it to you.

Given these lights apparently have built-in flasher electronics separate from the main flasher, I would say that if I were using them on my 2004, and given my experiences, I'd probably still need the Gold Coast relay, the proper LEDs, and the resistors - to get the front signals working; I'd save $32.00 for the rear LEDs - so the price tag would be $64.00 for the parts, plus $160.00 for the rears - $224.00 for everything (more than double what I spent).

Something else to note about those LED brake lights: There doesn't appear to be any provision for lighting up the license plate - so keep that in mind if you don't already have something (like for instance, if you've relocated your plate and put a light in for it already).

 

[Dennis Velez]

Cool. Want to change to LED and trying to avoid the issues everyone seems to have. Thought this might be an easier way but don't need to overspend either. Changed headlights to trucklites already spent there.

 

[appdiesel]

Need a fix/suggestion with my similar situation. Replaced brake, reverse, turn and side markers with LEDs. I've also gone to the 4-pin EP26 relay. No hyper flash in the turn signals but I'm getting a "half flash" in the side markers. Half of the blink duration is bright, half is a very weak blink.

Side consequence - when I wired in my CB I didn't run power directly to the battery but tied into the stereo power supply, and this LED situation is causing issues, not allowing my CB to get full power.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

 

[Steel City 06]

For anyone reviewing this thread: No load resistors are needed. I simply used an inline 330 ohm resistor to dim the running lights, 2 diodes to prevent back feeding, and a new ground.

Resulting power dissipated by the inline resistor is on the order of 0.10 watt.

 

[cr0sh]

For anyone reviewing this thread: No load resistors are needed. I simply used an inline 330 ohm resistor to dim the running lights, 2 diodes to prevent back feeding, and a new ground. Resulting power dissipated by the inline resistor is on the order of 0.10 watt.

Interesting; I had considered something like this myself, but I wanted to see where I could get with the "standard" way.

Does it play well with having all the other lamps (front and rear) being LEDs as well? Also, does the relay care? I might play around with this in the future.

Right now, with my current setup, when I just have my running lights on - if I use my turn signal the front signal works fine, and when not signalling it stays lit, like it should. The side marker lamp (also LED), though, is weird - when not signaling, it's lit up properly - but when signaling, it "flashes" with a quick pulse - I am not sure why. It's not much of a factor for me, because I rarely use only my running lights - usually I have my headlights on if I need the running lights. Strangely, with my headlights on - both turn signals work properly!

In the future, I have an idea that I'm hoping will work out, if I can figure out a simple way to do it. Right now, the "complex way" involves a small microcontroller at worst - but I think if I cipher on it long enough, I can reduce the logic to a relay or two, and maybe some diodes...

But anyhow, what I want to do is add a DRL element to the running lights. I bought a set of clear front markers, and then a set of LED bulbs that are "alternating" amber/white depending on the direction of current thru them. If you have them set up properly, then with regular running lights, they should be amber, but when flashing, they alternate amber/white.

What I want to do is make them run white all the time, but when flashing, turn off the white and flash only the amber. It could probably be handled with a circuit like you mentioned, plus an extra SPDT relay that only turns on with the running lights activated. I'm sure the logic is simple, I just haven't taken the time to really think about it fully. Plus there'd need to be something to keep the side marker lit with the running light, but also allow it to flash as well.

If I can figure it out, it'd give me a nice option for DRLs without needing to purchase expensive LED headlights with the rings (I'm actually going to try a set of JK headlights with some LED bulbs in them to see how that works out - anything has to be better than the standard sealed lamps I currently have).

 

[Steel City 06]

All of my turn signals and running lights are LED. Even the jones in the cabin (except for the locker switch bulb).
No issues. This makes the fender flare bulb operate exactly the same way as the fender bulb, where the running lights are reduced brightness and the turn signals are full brightness.
I recommend picking up a 1 watt resistor kit so you can play around and find out which brightness works for the bulbs you have.

I have the LM 470 relay and there is no difference in operation. The running lamps only use maybe 1.2 amps of current altogether. The turn signals use closer to 2 amps.

 

[cr0sh]

All of my turn signals and running lights are LED. Even the jones in the cabin (except for the locker switch bulb).
No issues. This makes the fender flare bulb operate exactly the same way as the fender bulb, where the running lights are reduced brightness and the turn signals are full brightness.
I recommend picking up a 1 watt resistor kit so you can play around and find out which brightness works for the bulbs you have.

I'll probably do this when I get around to my "DRL" mod - it'd be worth finding out. I don't really like having the load resistors in place to stop the fast blink, nor needing the "special" Gold Canyon relay (I'd rather something closer to OEM could be used). While the resistors haven't given me any problems, and the relay is still going good - that relay could and will fail someday...

I have the LM 470 relay and there is no difference in operation. The running lamps only use maybe 1.2 amps of current altogether. The turn signals use closer to 2 amps.

I'll keep those numbers in mind. Thanks again for posting all of this; while I can't make use of it right now, it might come in handy for my DRL idea. And perhaps someone else can use it - and that's always a plus!

 

[Liftnbuddy]

I just completed my Quadratec headlight/taillight upgrade kit, installed the new relay, and they ate working well. One issue, no backups lights, still have to look into that. Anyway, trying to also upgrade the front turn and side markers. Here’s what I’ve found: replace the front turns, (keeping the incandescence sides) bright but don’t ‘blink’ enough. Light output between off and on is hardly noticeable. Sides shine very low AND go completely dark when turn signal is on.

Leave the fronts incandescent and change the sides, sides are nice and bright, and both work ok.

Weird

 

[Liftnbuddy]

I just completed my Quadratec headlight/taillight upgrade kit, installed the new relay, and they ate working well. One issue, no backups lights, still have to look into that. Anyway, trying to also upgrade the front turn and side markers. Here’s what I’ve found: replace the front turns, (keeping the incandescence sides) bright but don’t ‘blink’ enough. Light output between off and on is hardly noticeable. Sides shine very low AND go completely dark when turn signal is on.

Leave the fronts incandescent and change the sides, sides are nice and bright, and both work ok.

Weird

Side note: does anyone know what bulbs are in the footwell lights?

 

[Steel City 06]

I just completed my Quadratec headlight/taillight upgrade kit, installed the new relay, and they ate working well. One issue, no backups lights, still have to look into that. Anyway, trying to also upgrade the front turn and side markers. Here’s what I’ve found: replace the front turns, (keeping the incandescence sides) bright but don’t ‘blink’ enough. Light output between off and on is hardly noticeable. Sides shine very low AND go completely dark when turn signal is on.

Leave the fronts incandescent and change the sides, sides are nice and bright, and both work ok.

Weird

The sidemarkers ground through the turn signal filaments. You’ll need to convert the sidemarker sockets to an independently grounded 3 wire setup to work properly without using load resistors.

 

[MikeE024]

For anyone reviewing this thread: No load resistors are needed. I simply used an inline 330 ohm resistor to dim the running lights, 2 diodes to prevent back feeding, and a new ground.

Thanks for sharing! I haven't investigated the wires yet.

Did you run the diode kit and resistors upstream of both lights in each front fender? Or did you only tie into the wiring before the side-marker light or front-facing light? Thanks for your help on this.

I just purchased a resistor kit on amazon. Which of these three options do you recommend...150w, 330w, or 470w resistor?

 

[Steel City 06]

Thanks for sharing! I haven't investigated the wires yet.

Did you run the diode kit and resistors upstream of both lights in each front fender? Or did you only tie into the wiring before the side-marker light or front-facing light? Thanks for your help on this.

I just purchased a resistor kit on amazon. Which of these three options do you recommend...150w, 330w, or 470w resistor?

Yes with the diodes. The two factory wires are first terminated with a diode and then the running lights are terminated with a resistor. They are then tied together and run to the positive lead of the LED. The negative lead is then grounded to the body.

The optimal resistance for the dimming circuit is going to be entirely dependent upon the bulb used. I recommend setting up a test circuit using the battery so you can compare high and low brightness.

I tested mine right on top of the car battery. Essentially took a piece of scrap wire to ground the light, and then hooked up the positive to the post with a resistor. Use a 3rd wire to bypass the resistor to simulate full brightness, and pull it off to simulate low brightness. You want to maximize low brightness while still having good contrast between the two settings. Higher resistance means a dimmer low setting.