LJ RockJock / Currie Rear Trackbar Bind

[Retarius]

I have a 2006 LJ with a 4in Currie/Savvy lift. I went to install and check the rear bump stops and found that the rear trackbar Johnny joint is bottoming out on the axle side bracket. This is limiting the amount the axle can droop on the drivers side. Is this normal?

I have reached out to Currie and have got conflicting answers. When I initially called to confirm what trackbar was needed before purchasing, I was told I need the track bar and axle side bracket. Yesterday I was told "With a 4 inch lift you most likely don’t need the track bar relocation bracket and would run just our adjustable track bar. ..I know at least on JK’s that the relocation bracket is really only if you are using the stock track bar or one that isn’t adjustable." Looking at the install instructions, I see one line that says the bracket may not be required for LJs. For people running the Currie/Rockjock trackbar on LJs, are you using the bracket?

 

[Tob]

I see one line that says the bracket may not be required for LJs.

They are saying the ANGLED bracket may not be necessary on LJ’s since they will have a less harsh pinion angle due to the longer rear driveshaft.

Yesterday I was told "With a 4 inch lift you most likely don’t need the track bar relocation bracket and would run just our adjustable track bar.

The more you lift, the steeper your trackbar angle becomes. A relocation bracket moves the axle side up, returning the trackbar to a more level position, and is actually more desirable on higher lifts. A more level trackbar can travel further before it binds against the other links.

When I tried installing my rock jock trackbar without a relocation bracket, the problem I ran into is that the grease fitting was contacting the factory axle side track bar bracket. There are pics in my build thread.

I recommend getting a relocation bracket. If your pinion angle is not steep enough to require an angled one, there are also non-angled brackets you can buy. Your other option is to modify the factory mount.

 

[jjvw]

Are you cycling the axle with the shocks installed?

 

[Tob]

Also, define “bottoming out” please

 

[freedom_in_4low]

Are you cycling the axle with the shocks installed?

looks to me like the track bar is binding with the shock mount still higher than the lower shock eye.

I have a JKS rear bar with an angled bracket on an LJ and it doesn't bind, but the angles may be different, and i think JKS uses a smaller joint. That said, I do tend to agree that the angled bracket may not be necessary with the LJ. I'm still running the angled bracket on mine because that's what I had when I swapped everything from my TJ, and I figured I might need it after the tuck.

 

[someguysjeep]

what's the travel bias on those shocks at ride height?

and that's 1 big ass jounce hangin out the cup.

 

[Retarius]

They are saying the ANGLED bracket may not be necessary on LJ’s since they will have a less harsh pinion angle due to the longer rear driveshaft.

When I tried installing my rock jock trackbar without a relocation bracket, the problem I ran into is that the grease fitting was contacting the factory axle side track bar bracket. There are pics in my build thread.

Rockjock only makes an angled bracket now which was recommended by their sales department when I talked through the build with them. That initial recommendation is now where the confusion is. Good to know that your zerk hit the factory bracket. I know that roughstuff makes what appears to be a vertical axle mount.

Are you cycling the axle with the shocks installed?

In the above picture they are not installed. I was in the process of replacing the rear bumpstops and found that the axle is not drooping out as much as I would have thought to remove the spring. The passenger spring was able to be easily removed by hand. In that picture the body of the johnny joint is contacting the angled bracket preventing the axle from drooping any further.

Also, define “bottoming out” please

The axle can not droop any further due to the body of the johnny joint hitting the angled bracket. The control arms have room to continue as do the shocks.

looks to me like the track bar is binding with the shock mount still higher than the lower shock eye.

I have a JKS rear bar with an angled bracket on an LJ and it doesn't bind, but the angles may be different, and i think JKS uses a smaller joint. That said, I do tend to agree that the angled bracket may not be necessary with the LJ. I'm still running the angled bracket on mine because that's what I had when I swapped everything from my TJ, and I figured I might need it after the tuck.

Correct, the shock mount is still higher than the shock eyelet. Good to know the JKS doesn't bind. I had tried to search the forum and see if other people ran into this and found one thread but it sounded like the OP ended up running no relocation bracket. I figured that more people must have run into this previously.

what's the travel bias on those shocks at ride height?

and that's 1 big ass jounce hangin out the cup.

Honestly not sure what the bias is currently as I have been in the process of changing out all the suspension on the jeep from a RE LA 5.5 to a Currie 4in. The rear jounce you see is the old RE which is what I was under the Jeep to change. Fun Fact, the RE Bumpstop doesn't actually contact the axle until way after the center section of the rear axle with the "Tri-4link" bridge hits the tub.

 

[jjvw]

Is the axle centered in the wheel opening at full bump? Is the pinion pointed in the right direction at ride height?

 

[Retarius]

Is the axle centered in the wheel opening at full bump? Is the pinion pointed in the right direction at ride height?

I was planning on confirming at full bump when I got the bumps installed but hit this snag. I'll hopefully have some time this weekend to get back to the other side. At the moment, it looks like I will need to disconnect the trackbar at one side to get the drivers spring out. The pinion at ride height looks good and there has been no noticeable vibrations while driving since the lift and trackbar went in.

 

[Retarius]

So new problem, the shocks are acting as the bump stops. OME compressed length is 14.5 (roughly the same as every other shock marketed for 4in lift) and are fully compressed with 4in of space between the bumpstops. I need to address this to see if the contact on trackbar even matters. Can anyone tell me if these are oem shock mounts or aftermarket?

 

[Jerry Bransford]

Those are aftermarket shock mounts, the factory lower shock mount is below the axle tube.

 

[jjvw]

X2. Lower the lower mount or raise the upper mount.

Using the shock as the bump stop isn't the problem. The problem is the lack of up travel.

 

[freedom_in_4low]

Why in the world. Guessing a previous owner thought they were solving a clearance problem by moving their shock mounts into a place that cripples uptravel? Only way it makes any sense is if the axle had been in a rig with custom upper mounts to go along.

That sucks, but I guess it's not that hard to deal with for you since you've already been moving control arm mounts and all that. I haven't welded enough to trust myself welding a shock mount onto an axle tube.

 

[Jerry Bransford]

Why in the world. Guessing a previous owner thought they were solving a clearance problem by moving their shock mounts into a place that cripples uptravel?

I needed a lower rear shock mount to be rewelded on my previous TJ and the shop talked me into new stronger mounts. I said ok. I picked the Jeep up and the shocks were bottoming out as I left their parking lot. When I looked to see what was going on, I discovered they had mounted both new mounts up high like that. When I came back in pretty pissed off demanding they weld them back into the original positions, they got defensive and claimed they were making it "more offroad worthy" by moving the mount up higher where it wouldn't drag on the rocks. Stupid shits.

 

[Retarius]

Thanks for the replies guys, I wish I knew how to give you all thumbs up. Knowing the shop that did the initial work years ago and after talking with the previous owner, they were raised to "not hang up on the Rubicon trail." This is the same shop that recommended a Rubicon Express Long Arm. Seems like they missed the forest for a tree when it comes to hanging up on things. Shocks are in stock upper location

Do you guys have any recommendations either for or against just cutting and rotating that mount? Or would you recommend a heavy duty stock replacement like Barnes 4wd?

 

[rasband]

Going back a bit, here’s my Currie track bar at full droop in a JKS relocation bracket.

I did notice your bracket wasn’t welded on though, which I believe is necessary for the Currie relocation bracket.

It also looks like your pinion isn’t rotated very far back - what lift height and can you picture the pinion angle to the transfer case?

 

[Retarius]

The bracket is welded on the lower lip as the instructions called for. It is a Currie 4in. The transmission has a tube crossmember similar to the Genright kit. I'll grab a picture of the pinion angle tomorrow.

 

[rasband]

The bracket is welded on the lower lip as the instructions called for.

Oh I always thought it was snug to the factory angle, I missed that weld!