Longwhitejeep LJ, 35's spec build

FarFire70 said:
When I first started to look at this post and just started seeing the first pic, I saw a shock shaft and my first thought was 'damn that is some serious damage to the shock shaft, I hope he's sanded down the edges...'

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:ROFLMAO:

Reflections and not enough on the screen for context... Didn't realized the shock was inverted...

Looking good! Love the amount of pics you post to share your build. Getting closer to a pavement ride!
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Thanks! They are shiny shock bodies!

I try and post pics of the process as I go since I'm a visual learner. I can ramble so pictures help break that up 😂.



For up travel sake though and taking shocks out of the question to measure the absolute limit. I can currently run without the currie spacers and it works. I get an ever so slight rubbing of the tie rod and trac bar steering lock to lock at full bump with no currie spacers. Just the currie bumpers. Without moving the shock mount, I can't quite utilize this untraveled entirely.


Centering the axle put the frame side trackbar mount right where it needed to go.
 
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I have those Dorman front brake lines. They worked great with the stock calipers. Just installed the same 16” big brake kit as you. The new calipers have the fitting rotated 90 degrees from stock.
The issue is I couldn’t full turn left and right against the steering stops. The hoses hits the shocks.
To resolve this take a flap wheel on a grinder and knock this corner off the brake hose fitting. Then you can rotate the hose vertically.
The other option is individual end fittings and straight AN hose.

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Steeprocker said:
I have those Dorman front brake lines. They worked great with the stock calipers. Just installed the same 16” big brake kit as you. The new calipers have the fitting rotated 90 degrees from stock.
The issue is I couldn’t full turn left and right against the steering stops. The hoses hits the shocks.
To resolve this take a flap wheel on a grinder and knock this corner off the brake hose fitting. Then you can rotate the hose vertically.
The other option is individual end fittings and straight AN hose.

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They kept bothering me when I setting the shocks up. I just flipped the block around and it moved them out the way.

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Longwhitejeep said:
What's the part number on your shock body?

I finally opened up mine and they are the wrong part number in the correct part number box skyjacker box. Very similar size but it's a b8557 and not b8575 like they should be. They are for a full size bronco according to part number.

I started a return with extreme terrain but it's not their fault it seems.
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Exact same scenario here. I also looked into it and was told the same. The dimensions were accurate and that’s all I was really worried about.
 
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As long as my ride height is accurate at roughly 16.5" spring length at ride height, this puts me at roughly 5.25 up and 5.5 down. This is after grinding the lower shock mount a bit. The shock is now my limit for down travel. Using up the entirety of a 10.75" travel shock in the stock mounting locations in the front is exciting. Hopefully they ride well. Even if my ride height is a bit higher I should still be ok. Hopefully it's not under 16".
Shock body does not hit anywhere though it's close.


Onto the pics!


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Rear bump stop and shock checks. It looks like I'll need an additional 3/4" of bump stop in the rear to get 3/4" of shock shaft showing when the currie bump stops touch. Shocks are black maxx b8528 with a 14.8" compressed length. These bottom out nearly the same time the currie stops start compressing.

I'm thinking I can split the difference with some scrap 5/16 aluminum I have. Making my own spacers to keep the bump stop length split as currie intended. It may end up closer to an inch but I'll see what I can com up with.

Or just go with something like this if that doesn't work. .75" arb aluminum spacers https://www.northridge4x4.com/part/...m-Mlg_5MNEL09SkkJpwBYQxT50WI8iixoCRG4QAvD_BwE



Shocks are slightly shorter than rancho rs55255 shocks a lot of people run, 15.01" compressed. I would imagine if you ran those you would need at least another 1inch of bump over the currie set up.

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The exhaust is also going to need to be reworked as it's right in the way of where the track bar needs to be. Hopefully I can just extend the section over the axle and move the rear hanger.

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How far will those jounce bumpers compress? I know the stock TJ jounces go all the way.
 
NashvilleTJ said:
How far will those jounce bumpers compress? I know the stock TJ jounces go all the way.
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The general consensus is another 3/4" or so. I can squish them enough for the shock to bottom out with more squish to go before it starts picking up the jeep. I may not need as much spacer shown in my photo so I figured to 2.25 spacers cut out of my 5/16" aluminum may be enough. If not, I'll cut one more but shouldn't need much.

I'll have adjust the travel bias after this as I think I'll have a lot more up than down.
 
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I made some bump stop spacers over the weekend out of 5/16, 6061 aluminum sheet I have. Hole saw, File and drill press make for a backwoods machine shop. Turned out pretty good.

Needed shield to keep all the aluminum shavings from making a mess in the garage.
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All that and I only needed one after making some final adjustments to the axle. Centering and adjusting pinion angle. I have more if adjustments are needed later for the front or rear.

I need to clearance the corner of the Savvy skid mount where the trac bar makes light contact.

I also have some light contact from the trac braket at full bump on the harness and evap line. I may need to move these out the way.

Tom woods rear drive shaft ordered today as well. Hopefully will have this thing on the road this weekend!
 
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Moved the Savvy skid mount a bit. No more contact.


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It's on all 4 wheels. Need to make some final adjustments and tighten up the rear trac bar.

Items left to do
- Run the air lines.
- drill the additional currie track bar bolts and weld the bottom
- Zip tie rear brake line to upper control arm
- install black magic stainless rear hard line mount.
- replace front driveshaft u joints.
- touch up paint a few things.
- install engine skid brakets.
-install new rear driveshaft
-bleed brakes
-install rear sway bar
-double check alignment measurements
- test drive and hope for no bad noises or death wobble.

Lower priority items
- Replace passenger side seat bottom with heated seat pad
- wire heated seats.
- get my buddy to come get this front axle he wants out my way!

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Jeep looks a little taller but not much different.

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Front shocks settled down to about 5.25 at ride height with a spring height of just under 16.5" so we should be all good for the front.

The rear on the other hand is sitting at 6.375" up and 3.655" down. I need to adjust this. I am thinking some shock extensions may raise the lower shock mount up enough to get closer to a 50/50 split. I may see if it settles some first as really don't want to run extenders if I don't have to.
 
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Stupid brand new compressor leaks at the manifold after another set of o-rings. Called arb and they just said to submit a ticket. Bummer. This and the pressure switch are the only current leaks in my system which is frustrating.


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Arb ticket submitted for the compressor.

A lot of talk lately about keeping weight down. That has always been somewhat of a focus for me in planning for this build. Knowing I wanted aluminum parts where I could.

Weight saving measures so far.
- Replaced ucf steel engine skid with savvy aluminum
- Replaced jcr sliders with savvy.
- on the list for flux offroad aluminum front bumper and corner armor.

I am waiting on what to do for the rear bumper. It's the last heavy thing I can easily change. I want a bumper that goes to the corners as it has saved my tub corner more than a few times.
 
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After disassembling and reassembling the compressor manifold a few times, I was able to stop the leak. Motivation for this was arb sent me a return label for the compressor to send back for inspection. With a shake down run planned for the end of the month, I doubt I would have it back in time. For now, no leaks at any point in the system. I'll take that win after a rough few days at work.
 
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This showed up today!
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Question for anyone who has one of these. Does your cv have the spicer boot? I ordered one for the front shaft rebuild but noticed the tom woods shaft doesnt have one. Is it needed? It seems it would be subject to a lot grit and such but maybe the boot keeps it in. Factory cv shaft has it. It looks like tom woods uses a smaller seal. Just more curious than anything.
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Longwhitejeep said:
This showed up today!
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Question for anyone who has one of these. Does your cv have the spicer boot? I ordered one for the front shaft rebuild but noticed the tom woods shaft doesnt have one. Is it needed? It seems it would be subject to a lot grit and such but maybe the boot keeps it in. Factory cv shaft has it. It looks like tom woods uses a smaller seal. Just more curious than anything. View attachment 533152View attachment 533153View attachment 533154
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Mine doesn’t have a boot either. I keep a good supply of grease there. It’s been a few years now, and the slip joint is still tight and we all know what kind of slop I subject my rig to. I’d say unnecessary if you do basic maintenance
 
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