Mamba MR1X Reviews?

If your rim is hub centric then when you tighten the lugs the rim as centered. Yes, for the most part the load is carried by the lungs being tight, but that has jack-all to do with being centered on the axle. ...

On a 5 lug wheel, once the lugs are tight and the coned nuts are fully seated and centered in their respective holes, what more can the hub do beyond provide a 6th interference point for the five lugs to
potentially exert a force against? The "center" will always be the average of all the forces working together. Unless the hub is an interference fit into the wheel (be thankful it isn't), then the lugs will always have the ability to shift the wheel within the tolerance of the hub and wheel.

This is a very similar discussion as axle side track bar bolts and tapered tie rod end bolts. These parts are held in place by the clamping force of the properly torqued bolts. In this case, the cone shape of the lug nuts locate the final position of the wheel before hub does.
 
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Assuming that a wheel has been manufactured properly and each lug has been tightened equally to spec, there is no difference in centering between a hub centric wheel and lug centric wheel after the lugs have been tightened.

While factory wheels are typically hub centric and designed as a perfect match for the vehicle, most aftermarket wheels are lug centric so that the wheel can fit more than one vehicle. This may present some issues with computer controlled tire balancers that use a cone to affix the wheel rather than the lug holes, but it is irrelevant to the performance of the wheel once it is on the vehicle.
 
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If you check the lug nuts on a true hub centric rim you will find they are flat. They dont need to try to locate the rim because the hub already did that. And I know that it is a well known fact that aluminum can't wear or deform, but maybe, just maybe, those impact drivers that lock a lug so f-ing tight that you need a 4 foot breaker bar to listen them might do something to the soft tapered hole. The reason most OEM rims are hub centric is because they locate the wheel better. And your assertion that aftermarket rims are lug centric so they can fit a variety of vehicles indicates that they are made so they can be a looser fit. How many "one size fits all" hats fit you correctly. How many "one size fits all" ANYTHING fits correctly? I am done whith this silly game. You keep thinking your one size fits all rims spinning around at 70 mph are not the problem when you can't find that odd vibration and you have to balance the tires for the 5th time and still the truck vibrates.
 
I have lug centric wheels and no vibrations at 70 mph even though my 35" tires were on the balancer only one time each.

Go figure.

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BTW - It is not my assertion that aftermarket rims are ''lug centric so that they can fit a variety of vehicles."

See this from Discount Tire:

As opposed to hub-centric wheels, lug-centric wheels are centered on the mounting surface using the lug holes. Most aftermarket wheels are lug-centric because this allows the manufacturer to make the wheels with larger hub bore diameters so that the wheel can fit a wider array of vehicles.
https://www.americastire.com/learn/hub-centric-vs-lug-centric
And this from Tire Rack:

Vehicles have many different hub diameters (or hub bores), therefore aftermarket wheel manufacturers generally make wheels with a large centerbore so the wheel will go on many types of applications.
https://blog.tirerack.com/blog/turk-t/hub-centric-vs-lug-centric-wheel-fitments
And see this, also from Tire Rack:

The other way to [center the wheel on the hub], which is more prevalent on truck and SUV fitments, is to use lug holes with cone-shaped bottoms with conical seat lug hardware. When installing lug centric wheels, jack the axle up so the wheel and tire are off the ground, then firmly hand-tighten the lugs down so the wheel meets the hub. Then, gradually and evenly start applying torque a little bit at a time to each lug in a star-shape pattern. As you add torque, the cone-shaped lugs shift the wheel upwards on the hub and center the wheel properly, preventing wheel vibration.

Hub-centric wheels are not inherently "better" than lug-centric wheels and one does not "center" better than the other.
 
Your quotes only say that they make lug centric so they are more of a universal fit. If this is a better way then why go thru all the bother of making EVERY other rotating assembly located "hub centric"? Why are piston and rods weighted to the 1/10 of a gram in high end engines? Why bother with crank or cam bores? Why use pegs to locate the clutch? A few oversized holes is all that's needed. Hell, you are supposed to balance your lawn mower blades. Also, I did not claim that YOUR 5 wallowed out holes wont hold YOUR tire. There is a reason that your rotating mass is almost always considered critically balanced. And having a few oversized holes because it is easier to fit more vehicles isn't it. And if I knew how to use this damn interweb stuff better I could put up plenty of quotes that aren't from a DISCOUNT store. I will concede that you probably have a lot more knowledge about the TJ's, but on this point I do not.
 
Really happy with the MR1X in my XJ.

My Dad's ZJ has Moab and both models has mud and rocks signals (some minor notches)

The offset of Mamba 0mm and the Moab 12.7mm are better that other oem wheels of 25.4mm.

Our trails are recreational and familiar kind.

Both with front Eaton Detroit Trutreac, Xj rear Truetrac and ZJ rear brand new Trac-Lok.
ZJ is better equipped with ARB bullbar and Warn VR8000 which.

Basicly, the decision was: I like but my XJ has 15" MT. And the ZJ had golden 16" wheels. So we decided to keep the actual tire diameter size.

In Costa Rica you have to import them, the used wheel stock is very limited.

Regards.

mr1x.jpg


ZJMT31.jpg
 
I was minutes away from pulling the trigger on a set of Mambas when 5 Moabs fell into my lap for super cheap. Buying tires for them sucks though, and they are the powder coated version. I would buy a machined version of either in a heartbeat.
 
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I have some 15x8 Mambas on back order from Auto Anything, should get them by May 25th. I will post some pics when I get them mounted on my new tires (General Grabbers X3 33x10.50R15)
 
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I have some 15x8 Mambas on back order from Auto Anything, should get them by May 25th. I will post some pics when I get them mounted on my new tires (General Grabbers X3 33x10.50R15)

I look forward to seeing them!
 
Anyone else have photos of these on their TJ? I’m starting to think I may want a set. I really love the look of Moab’s but hate that they are 16”.

I think the "lack of tire selection" for 16" wheels is a bit overblown. I mean seriously, how many selections do you want or even need?

I way I see it, the main advantage to the 16" wheel is the metric tire size.

If you want to run a 33" tire on a 15" wheel, you either have to get the WIDE 12.5" tire or the rather narrow 10.5" tire. With the former, you are going to have a backspacing problem. With stock wheels, you will need wheel spacers to make that size work. And almost all aftermarket wheels are going to have more backspacing than you need, and so the wheel is going to stick out from the flares. Then of course is all the extra rolling mass of the fatter tire. With the latter, tire selection is even more limited, and some don't like the look of "pizza cutters."

If you want to run a 33" tire on the stock 16" Moab wheel, the metric equivalent is 285 75R 16. That size is not nearly as wide as the 33x12.50, and avoids the "pizza cutter" look of the narrow 33x10.50. Performance won't suffer as much as with running the much wider 12.5" wide tire. The width of the 285 75R 16 tire is perfect in that you don't need spacers with the stock Moab wheel. The tires stay under the flares where they belong, and you get to keep your stock wheel. Which, by the way, is the best-looking wheel that came on the TJ. :)

And then there is a matter of proportions. The Jeep CJ and YJ came stock with 15" wheels. The TJ comes along in 1997 with much larger fender openings, and they also came stock with a 15" wheel? I personally think the stock size should have been 16" all along, if not for better aesthetics but also for the more suitable tire widths that come in the metric sizes. Yes, almost all new vehicles have 17" or larger wheels now, but 16" was considered a cool size in the 1990s - when the TJ was designed.
 
I think the "lack of tire selection" for 16" wheels is a bit overblown. I mean seriously, how many selections do you want or even need?

Not overblown at all.

Go find me C rated A/T or M/T tires in a 16" size. Let me know how many you find.

Still overblown? Or do you just like riding around on E rated tires?

There's a reason that you don't find many people running 16s on their Jeep.
 
If you insist on a C rated tire, then yes, you are correct.

"Overblown" is not the same as "unfounded."

All I know is that I have run E rated tires, and I’ll never willingly run one again. A tire like that has no place on a vehicle as light as a Wrangler. I mean if you can deal with a horse ride, then more power to you. I have however had a taste of the other side and I’ll never go back to an E rated tire.

I love Moab wheels, but I hate that they are such an unusual size.
 
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All I know is that I have run E rated tires, and I’ll never willingly run one again. A tire like that has no place on a vehicle as light as a Wrangler. I mean if you can deal with a horse ride, then more power to you. I have however had a taste of the other side and I’ll never go back to an E rated tire.

I love Moab wheels, but I hate that they are such an unusual size.

Most people feel that a Jeep CJ/YJ/TJ is akin to a "horse ride" anyway.

What tire did you run, and what tire pressure?