Metalcloak fender test on stock suspension with 33s

[GASnBRASS]

Finally got around to doing a tire clearance test between stock fenders and metalcloak overlines. The axle, suspension, control arms, and steering are all stock. The tires are 33x12.5 on a 15x8 rim with 4" BS. There is a 3/4" body lift so keep that in mind when comparing the clearances.

The tire when straight hits the stock fender with 3/4" of bump stop gap. Keep in mind that without the 3/4" body lift the bump stop gap would be at least an inch or more.

When turning to the left the tire drops slightly due to the caster angle but still contacts the rear of the wheel well before the steer stop is reached. To turn to the right the axle must be lowered 3/4" to clear the fender lip, so the bump stop gap is now 1.5".

With the metalcloak overline fender, the tire still has 1/2" of clearance with the bump stop resting on the contact pad so the axle is fully articulated. Keep in mind there is a 3/4" body lift, so without the BL there would be some tire contact at full stuff.

When turning to the left, there is still tire contact before the steer stops are reached, but a slight bit more steering angle is achieved. When tuning to the right there are no issues what so ever, and the tire does not need to be dropped for clearance. The axle is still in contact with the bump stop. Again, keep in mind the extra 3/4" clearance from the BL. A small spring spacer or some 1" H&R springs might help with the rear wheel well clearances when turning left.

The overline has a 6" flare, and there is no contact with the flare when the tire is either straight or turned left/right.

And as a bonus, here is the rear 33" tire on a stock axle, arms, and suspension compressed to the bump stop with 1/2" clearance all around the wheel well.

Everyone can come to their own conclusions based on the results of this test.

 

[IPerkWVU]

Came to my own conclusion…. the overline fenders added uptravel in your situation.

Putting on my nomex coveralls before the flaming begins

 

[kmas0n]

oh dear

 

[jjvw]

This is consistent with what we already know. MC gets about an inch of clearance and isn't much different than chopping off the outer fenders back to the hood.

How long are the shocks? The more travel they allow, the more tire interference there will be.

 

[GASnBRASS]

This is consistent with what we already know. MC gets about an inch of clearance and isn't much different than chopping off the outer fenders back to the hood.

How long are the shocks? The more travel they allow, the more tire interference there will be.

The shocks are factory. I measure 7.75" from bump stop to perch with the axle hanging from the shocks.

Like many things in life, the truth about these fenders is somewhere between the hater's "these do nothing" and the marketing wank of "these do it all".

My factory fenders are rotted out so I need new fenders regardless. This fender swap and a small body lift will let me run 33's while maintaining my stock uptravel. Not interested in chopping the hood for highlines, and avoids the expense and complications of the oft recommended 3"+ lift for 33's. It works for me and my situation. It's not an ultimate rock crawler with huge clearance, just a regular TJ with bigger tires (and a mild tummy tuck). I do think MC's claims are grossly exaggerated, but these give me just enough room to run the tires I'm geared for.

 

[MichaelGH]

I 100% agree with your assessment. These fenders live in between the reality of a stock configuration and Metalcloak’s claims of solving all the worlds problems. At least when trying to run 33s without a lift…

- I have stock suspension (12” spring height in front and 8” in the back).
- Savvy 1.25” body lift.
- Metalcloak Overline Fenders with 4” flares front and back.
- 15x8” wheels with 3.75” backspacing.
- 33x12.5” tires.
- Full set of Savvy double-adjustable control arms. Lowers set to 15.75” (stock length) and uppers set to whatever length needed for my pinion angles (tummy tucked to 1” below frame).
- Fox 2.0 shocks bolted in stock locations.

Thus far I have only gotten my Jeep to make contact where the right front tire just kisses the SwayLoc. It rubs just a touch, in certain turning/suspension compression situations, when the edge of the tire/tread kisses the locking mechanism bracket that slides back and forth on outside of that passenger side arm…

My setup works very well for how I use my Jeep. I’d love to outboard my rear shocks, but don’t really know if that’s feasible with zero suspension lift…

 

[jjvw]

...

My setup works very well for how I use my Jeep. I’d love to outboard my rear shocks, but don’t really know if that’s feasible with zero suspension lift…

Other than maybe getting a tunable shock in there (if one that short exists), there will be no significant increase in travel. That's one of the drawbacks of a LCoG build. The spring lift is for more than just fitting larger tires.

 

[D M]

Other than maybe getting a tunable shock in there (if one that short exists), there will be no significant increase in travel. That's one of the drawbacks of a LCoG build. The spring lift is for more than just fitting larger tires.

Just asking for clarification: You're talking about shock travel correct? Meaning that spring lift not only physically makes room for more tires, but more length between each coil which allows for more shock travel before coil bind? Is this right or am I completely off

 

[deadbeat son]

Finally got around to doing a tire clearance test between stock fenders and metalcloak overlines. The axle, suspension, control arms, and steering are all stock. The tires are 33x12.5 on a 15x8 rim with 4" BS. There is a 3/4" body lift so keep that in mind when comparing the clearances.

The tire when straight hits the stock fender with 3/4" of bump stop gap. Keep in mind that without the 3/4" body lift the bump stop gap would be at least an inch or more.

View attachment 289229

View attachment 289231

When turning to the left the tire drops slightly due to the caster angle but still contacts the rear of the wheel well before the steer stop is reached. To turn to the right the axle must be lowered 3/4" to clear the fender lip, so the bump stop gap is now 1.5".

View attachment 289233
View attachment 289234

With the metalcloak overline fender, the tire still has 1/2" of clearance with the bump stop resting on the contact pad so the axle is fully articulated. Keep in mind there is a 3/4" body lift, so without the BL there would be some tire contact at full stuff.

View attachment 289235
View attachment 289236

When turning to the left, there is still tire contact before the steer stops are reached, but a slight bit more steering angle is achieved. When tuning to the right there are no issues what so ever, and the tire does not need to be dropped for clearance. The axle is still in contact with the bump stop. Again, keep in mind the extra 3/4" clearance from the BL. A small spring spacer or some 1" H&R springs might help with the rear wheel well clearances when turning left.

View attachment 289238
View attachment 289239

The overline has a 6" flare, and there is no contact with the flare when the tire is either straight or turned left/right.

View attachment 289240
View attachment 289241

And as a bonus, here is the rear 33" tire on a stock axle, arms, and suspension compressed to the bump stop with 1/2" clearance all around the wheel well.

View attachment 289243

Everyone can come to their own conclusions based on the results of this test.

I'm not very familiar with the MC fenders, but do you think the results will hold once you install the inner fenders?

 

[GASnBRASS]

I'm not very familiar with the MC fenders, but do you think the results will hold once you install the inner fenders?

With the slope of the tread at any given steering angle during articulation I don't forsee the inner liner's being an issue.

 

[jjvw]

Just asking for clarification: You're talking about shock travel correct? Meaning that spring lift not only physically makes room for more tires, but more length between each coil which allows for more shock travel before coil bind? Is this right or am I completely off

Correct. It's part of the commonly recommended formula for the tire size/lift suggestions seen around here.

 

[deadbeat son]

With the slope of the tread at any given steering angle during articulation I don't forsee the inner liner's being an issue.

May be worth checking with both sides compressed (full bump) as well, not just one or the other.

 

[MichaelGH]

I'm not very familiar with the MC fenders, but do you think the results will hold once you install the inner fenders?

The inners won’t make a difference with what he’s already shown for clearances…

 

[jjvw]

With the slope of the tread at any given steering angle during articulation I don't forsee the inner liner's being an issue.

The spot on the rear wall where the battery shelf lives is where the first meaningful interference starts. It is seen at full flex, full steering lock. But you may not see it on 33s or with stock shocks because the tire isn't large enough nor does it move enough.

 

[MichaelGH]

Other than maybe getting a tunable shock in there (if one that short exists), there will be no significant increase in travel. That's one of the drawbacks of a LCoG build. The spring lift is for more than just fitting larger tires.

I am only looking to plant/stabilize my rear end better on road. Under acceleration especially. In my mind having the shocks closer to the tires would help, but I don’t really know…

 

[jjvw]

May be worth checking with both sides compressed (full bump) as well, not just one or the other.

Full flex, full steering lock is when you see body and frame interferences. Full bump is where you see steering and track bar problems.

 

[deadbeat son]

Full flex, full steering lock is when you see body and frame interferences. Full bump is where you see steering and track bar problems.

Good info. Thanks for the clarification.

 

[jjvw]

I am only looking to plant/stabilize my rear end better on road. Under acceleration especially. In my mind having the shocks closer to the tires would help, but I don’t really know…

A wider shock stance does help some to mitigate roll. It's also a whole lot of work for only a small portion of what a full featured outboard can give. And all that hard work will not carry over to a taller spring lift when you decide you want more from the suspension.

 

[MichaelGH]

A wider shock stance does help some to mitigate roll. It's also a whole lot of work for only a small portion of what a full featured outboard can give. And all that hard work will not carry over to a taller spring lift when you decide you want more from the suspension.

Understood, thank you…

I don’t have any roll per say. It’s more the torque under acceleration makes the rear shift a bit side to side…

Is my situation where a person would just do a “shock shifter“ modification where the bottom of the shock is pulled behind the control arm mount?

 

[jjvw]

Understood, thank you…

I don’t have any roll per say. It’s more the torque under acceleration makes the rear shift a bit side to side…

Is my situation where a person would just do a “shock shifter“ modification where the bottom of the shock is pulled behind the control arm mount?

You're describing both shock valving and the behavior of the rear track bar.

Relocating the shock's axle mounts can help some with increasing travel. The problem I see is that it is easy for the shock body to hit the frame at full flex.