Mid-arm LJ Rubicon

[sunnysideup_lj]

So, if those were to show up on your website sometime in the future I would be willing to bet you could sell a few sets

Probably won’t end up there. I’m not a huge fan of 3D printed parts. Quality of print seems to dispoint me most times. I’m guessing since I haven’t used a high quality printer.

If you PM me I can send you the file so you can print your own.

 

[voodooridr]

Probably won’t end up there. I’m not a huge fan of 3D printed parts. Quality of print seems to dispoint me most times. I’m guessing since I haven’t used a high quality printer.

If you PM me I can send you the file so you can print your own.View attachment 657179

I do appreciate the offer but I'm one of those luddites that don't have a 3D printer

 

[Tob]

Probably won’t end up there. I’m not a huge fan of 3D printed parts. Quality of print seems to dispoint me most times. I’m guessing since I haven’t used a high quality printer.

If you PM me I can send you the file so you can print your own.View attachment 657179

You could avoid the unsightly lines across the finished surface by changing the print orientation so that the appearance surface is the bottom of the part, which takes on the texture of the print bed instead of showing lines. The caveat is that the geometry of the part may force you to print it as shown to avoid overhangs or use of supports.

Overall, it looks pretty good!

 

[sunnysideup_lj]

Moab Thanksgiving trip.
Pritchett Canyon

 

[sunnysideup_lj]

A couple short videos of some climbs.

 

[NashvilleTJ]

No better place to spend Turkey Day. Thanks for sharing.

 

[TJustin]

Wish I could have made it on this trip. Great shots!

 

[Rickstar321]

Went through your whole thread! (probably noticed all the likes!) Great machine! Your skills would be like a PHD compared to my 3rd grade level but we've made a lot of the same upgrades but differently. I've already done the TJR axle swap, now working on the JLR axle swap, going from JT control arms (acts like a mid arm) to G/R Legend dbl tri 4 link rear, 3 link front.
I'm glad I saw your JK coil perch mod, I bought the Artec JL to TJ truss but it moves the perch back to the stock TJ location, I was not happy but you solved that dilema for me! I did the WJ knuckle swap several years ago, so already moved the frame side trac bar mount up a couple inches so should be good now that I've seen yours.

Looking forward to seeing your next mods! Good lookin' out! As stated multiple times "Super clean LJ!!!)

 

[Rickstar321]

Quick question if you don't mind, I looked at these but appeared they were offset too, did you move the axle tube arch to center them?

 

[AndyG]

I love to get on a thread and watch one of these going from bone stock to an absolute beast -

Great, great job.

 

[sunnysideup_lj]

Quick question if you don't mind, I looked at these but appeared they were offset too, did you move the axle tube arch to center them?

View attachment 660094

Thanks! It’s been a fun. I’ve been wheeling and maintaining more than building lately.

I used the Barnes JK coil mounts. The coil is centered on the axle tube. The bracket is not symmetrical. In those pictures it appears offset, but the coils are centered.

Side note on the brackets, they sat higher than I needed. I cut the “u” deeper so the coil sat closer to the axle tube. Got the ride height where I wanted.

 

[sunnysideup_lj]

I love to get on a thread and watch one of these going from bone stock to an absolute beast -

Great, great job.

Thank you! It’s fun to look back and see how things have evolved.

 

[Rickstar321]

Thanks! It’s been a fun. I’ve been wheeling and maintaining more than building lately.

I used the Barnes JK coil mounts. The coil is centered on the axle tube. The bracket is not symmetrical. In those pictures it appears offset, but the coils are centered.

Side note on the brackets, they sat higher than I needed. I cut the “u” deeper so the coil sat closer to the axle tube. Got the ride height where I wanted.

Riding and maintaining is just the doorstep to "I bet I can make "that" better"... lol...
I ordered the Barnes bracket last night, and my RCV's came in last night ($$$ ow), but I have a lot to do before I get to that point.

My completion date is to have it all finished and tested before EJS, and then my big 2 week trip to do Black Bear, Poughkeepsie, Imogene, and then on Jeepers at Rubicon, Fordyce, and Barret Lake. That's going to be an epic trip for the new build upgrades.

 

[sunnysideup_lj]

Sand Hollow trip recap. 4 days, 8 trails. Great trip! I recently installed a Yankum fairlead. Got the chance to test it and I’m liking it more than I thought would.

Trail List
-Triple 7’s
-Front Range
-Papa Smurf
-The Fallen
-Dead Broke
-Maze
-Landslide
-Milt Mile (Forum run)

 

[sunnysideup_lj]

I have been seeing a few JL axle swaps on TJ’s. This swap has caught my attention. I am hoping for stronger axles, while still being lighter and better clearance than tons. After some research, I had my sights set on axles from 2024+ Rubicon “XR”. I ended up finding a set locally that had extremely low miles that checked the boxes. They were pulled from a 2024 JLU 392 “Final Edition”

A few things I need to figure out before I’m ready to swap in these axles.

-FAD in front housing. Although my axle is from a 392 that did not feature the FAD, they simply put a block plate on the back. I have plans of cutting the casting out and sleeving over the tube. Part of this is for strength, the other is to remove the unsightly casting on the tube. I need to open the front diff to get a better game plan of all the details.

-Brackets and link mounts. I plan to be stripping both axles of the mounts. I haven’t found a bridge or truss for either the front of rear that I like. I will likely be designing and making my own.

-Tie Rod. I have been running a straight tie rod with offset TRE’s. I have grown to hate the offset TRE’s. I am hoping to run a straight tie rod with straight ends, even if that leads to a custom or modified diff cover to make it possible.

-Regear, these axles came factory with 4.56 gears. My plan is to retain the factory e-lockers and regear. I will run the factory shafts and lockers for as long as they allow me to.

I’ve learned a lot from my current axles with the WJ knuckles. I’m in no time crunch to get these in, I will be getting them ready and collecting parts before I dive in. The main focus will be keeping them light and shooting for more up travel.

 

[JMT]

I have been seeing a few JL axle swaps on TJ’s. This swap has caught my attention. I am hoping for stronger axles, while still being lighter and better clearance than tons. After some research, I had my sights set on axles from 2024+ Rubicon “XR”. I ended up finding a set locally that had extremely low miles that checked the boxes. They were pulled from a 2024 JLU 392 “Final Edition”

A few things I need to figure out before I’m ready to swap in these axles.

-FAD in front housing. Although my axle is from a 392 that did not feature the FAD, they simply put a block plate on the back. I have plans of cutting the casting out and sleeving over the tube. Part of this is for strength, the other is to remove the unsightly casting on the tube. I need to open the front diff to get a better game plan of all the details.

-Brackets and link mounts. I plan to be stripping both axles of the mounts. I haven’t found a bridge or truss for either the front of rear that I like. I will likely be designing and making my own.

-Tie Rod. I have been running a straight tie rod with offset TRE’s. I have grown to hate the offset TRE’s. I am hoping to run a straight tie rod with straight ends, even if that leads to a custom or modified diff cover to make it possible.

-Regear, these axles came factory with 4.56 gears. My plan is to retain the factory e-lockers and regear. I will run the factory shafts and lockers for as long as they allow me to.

I’ve learned a lot from my current axles with the WJ knuckles. I’m in no time crunch to get these in, I will be getting them ready and collecting parts before I dive in. The main focus will be keeping them light and shooting for more up travel.


View attachment 693154View attachment 693155

That’s hilarious. I’ve been planning ahead for axle swap and decided if I build my own I’d start with JL/JT axles. Since they’re from a Rubicon WMS 68”

 

[gasiorv]

-Tie Rod. I have been running a straight tie rod with offset TRE’s. I have grown to hate the offset TRE’s. I am hoping to run a straight tie rod with straight ends, even if that leads to a custom or modified diff cover to make it possible.

What problems have you been having with the offset TREs?

 

[sunnysideup_lj]

That’s hilarious. I’ve been planning ahead for axle swap and decided if I build my own I’d start with JL/JT axles. Since they’re from a Rubicon WMS 68”

These are 68” WMS to WMS

 

[Woodrow]

I have been seeing a few JL axle swaps on TJ’s. This swap has caught my attention. I am hoping for stronger axles, while still being lighter and better clearance than tons. After some research, I had my sights set on axles from 2024+ Rubicon “XR”. I ended up finding a set locally that had extremely low miles that checked the boxes. They were pulled from a 2024 JLU 392 “Final Edition”

A few things I need to figure out before I’m ready to swap in these axles.

-FAD in front housing. Although my axle is from a 392 that did not feature the FAD, they simply put a block plate on the back. I have plans of cutting the casting out and sleeving over the tube. Part of this is for strength, the other is to remove the unsightly casting on the tube. I need to open the front diff to get a better game plan of all the details.

-Brackets and link mounts. I plan to be stripping both axles of the mounts. I haven’t found a bridge or truss for either the front of rear that I like. I will likely be designing and making my own.

-Tie Rod. I have been running a straight tie rod with offset TRE’s. I have grown to hate the offset TRE’s. I am hoping to run a straight tie rod with straight ends, even if that leads to a custom or modified diff cover to make it possible.

-Regear, these axles came factory with 4.56 gears. My plan is to retain the factory e-lockers and regear. I will run the factory shafts and lockers for as long as they allow me to.

I’ve learned a lot from my current axles with the WJ knuckles. I’m in no time crunch to get these in, I will be getting them ready and collecting parts before I dive in. The main focus will be keeping them light and shooting for more up travel.


View attachment 693154View attachment 693155

Very cool axles.
What tire size are you planning?
Do they need stronger shafts or does the 392 model already have enough beef?
Re cutting out the FAD casting and sleeving:
Will the sleeve be full length or shorter and if shorter, will you straight cut or oblique cut?
Will you keep the stock cross caster?

 

[sunnysideup_lj]

Very cool axles.
What tire size are you planning?

37’s. I’ve seen some shafts that allow you to run 1480 u joints. Tempting for 40’s…I still have time before I jump into that rabbit hole.

Do they need stronger shafts or does the 392 model already have enough beef?

392’s have front CV joints factory. Time will tell if they need to be stronger. I am assuming the long side is 1 piece since the FAD is not there. I will know more as I get into it.

Rears are full floating shafts. RCV makes chromoly replacements. Will roll the dice on the factory ones for the time being.

Re cutting out the FAD casting and sleeving:
Will the sleeve be full length or shorter and if shorter, will you straight cut or oblique cut?

From what I can gather online, there will be a 3-4” void between the axle tube where the FAD casting is. After chatting with Blaine I’m planning to fill the void with a similar size material to the factory tubes, then clam shell from the center section to inner C with a piece of 3”x.120” DOM.

Will you keep the stock cross caster?

Yes, I don’t want to cut the short side. I will clam shell over with 3” DOM just to match the long side.