Midnight LJR Build

Savvy trying to bury me this week...

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I opted to get the optional OEM style hinges on the doors but it looks like they don’t drill out for them like I expected. Not comfortable getting that straight and nice on my own, so planning to call them next week and have them ship out the standard hinges.
 
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Midnight LJR said:
Savvy trying to bury me this week...

View attachment 113971

I opted to get the optional OEM style hinges on the doors but it looks like they don’t drill out for them like I expected. Not comfortable getting that straight and nice on my own, so planning to call them next week and have them ship out the standard hinges.
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I don't blame you. I wouldn't want to drill holes either.

Is that a savvy rear bumper? It looks like d rings would go in the slots but I didn't know they had one like that.
 
Alex01 said:
I don't blame you. I wouldn't want to drill holes either.

Is that a savvy rear bumper? It looks like d rings would go in the slots but I didn't know they had one like that.
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Yeah that’s the Savvy rear bumper it came with D rings for the slots. They offer 2 bumpers.
 
Midnight LJR said:
Savvy trying to bury me this week...

View attachment 113971

I opted to get the optional OEM style hinges on the doors but it looks like they don’t drill out for them like I expected. Not comfortable getting that straight and nice on my own, so planning to call them next week and have them ship out the standard hinges.
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Does the standard hinge pin into the OEM hinge on the tub.
 
Correct, which is why I wanted them. But am not sure I am comfortable drilling the holes for hinges to get the door lined up.

I am planning to use them for trail doors and buy a set of OEM half doors for daily driving. But they have become so rare and expensive I don’t want to use the OEM doors on the harder trails.
 
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Some good progress today, I got the cross member installed. It took a lot of install and removing the cross member over and over but got it figured out.

Planning to order driveshafts tomorrow and work on relocating the air pumps during the week.
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IMG_3348.jpg
 
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Midnight LJR said:
Some good progress today, I got the cross member installed. It took a lot of install and removing the cross member over and over but got it figured out.

Planning to order driveshafts tomorrow and work on relocating the air pumps during the week.
View attachment 114212

View attachment 114213
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Tom woods or admas? Looks great. Did the rear brace fit (with the skid on) or do you need to get the exhaust moved a bit?
 
Alex01 said:
Tom woods or admas? Looks great. Did the rear brace fit (with the skid on) or do you need to get the exhaust moved a bit?
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Was gonna do Tom woods. I did a very quick test fit and think the rear brace is going to fit. I will likely need to grind a small arc in it to help clear. But the brace appears to be lined up with pipe not the muffler.

It is only about 1/16” away from rear track bar though. So will definitely have to get the rear section worked on.
 
Midnight LJR said:
Was gonna do Tom woods. I did a very quick test fit and think the rear brace is going to fit. I will likely need to grind a small arc in it to help clear. But the brace appears to be lined up with pipe not the muffler.

It is only about 1/16” away from rear track bar though. So will definitely have to get the rear section worked on.
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I have Tom woods F/R. They have been great and it's always easy to talk to them on the phone.
Funny how each jeep is different. Tom's 05 needed work of the muffler but cleared the TB fine. I wonder if the exhaust was changed 05-06 or if the manual vs auto were different.
 
Alex01 said:
I have Tom woods F/R. They have been great and it's always easy to talk to them on the phone.
Funny how each jeep is different. Tom's 05 needed work of the muffler but cleared the TB fine. I wonder if the exhaust was changed 05-06 or if the manual vs auto were different.
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It does seem like they are all unique which is part of what makes the forums so valuable.

Also I started mine up, and it was just a quick Idle test in the garage. But I didn’t seem to notice much more vibration then stock. Maybe a tiny tiny bit. Maybe it will increase once I bolt the rest of skid on and set pinion angles and take it for a drive.

I know Tom was dealing with idle vibration problems. It will be interesting to see what type of NVH issues, if any I deal with as it was a major concern of mine when deciding to go with the Savvy skid.
 
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Order new Driveshafts from Tom Woods

Ordered XC Shafts with Sealed Spicer U Joints

Front - 38 3/8"
Rear 25 7/8"

Should be here this week, That will allow me to finish the Tummy Tuck, and set my pinion angle. Once my Pinion angle is set and I confirm no vibrations and everything works good I will then need to remove front and rear springs and do a final cycling of the suspension to see how everything is working.


Still to do list for the parts I have in.

Finish relocating Air Pumps
Install new driveshafts
Set pinion angle
Cycle suspension
Install engine Skid
Install Rear Bumper
Install Rock Sliders
Install Corner Armor
install half doors
 
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Midnight LJR said:
Order new Driveshafts from Tom Woods

Ordered XC Shafts with Sealed Spicer U Joints

Front - 38 3/8"
Rear 25 7/8"

Should be here this week, That will allow me to finish the Tummy Tuck, and set my pinion angle. Once my Pinion angle is set and I confirm no vibrations and everything works good I will then need to remove front and rear springs and do a final cycling of the suspension to see how everything is working.


Still to do list for the parts I have in.

Finish relocating Air Pumps
Install new driveshafts
Set pinion angle
Cycle suspension
Install engine Skid
Install Rear Bumper
Install Rock Sliders
Install Corner Armor
install half doors
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The end is in sight. The pump relocation shouldn't take to long. On Tom's I cut a section out of his OEM front bumper to make a bracket and attached it to the Abs Tray with a few bolts. It's easier just to pull the tray, mount the pumps, and hook everything up if that's the location you choose. Don't forget to take the extra time to add dielectric grease to the sodered connections before sealing them with heat shrink.

I had a hell of a time lining up the engine skid. I recall telling Tom I thought it took more time than the tuck lol.

What are you doing for onboard air?
 
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Alex01 said:
The end is in sight. The pump relocation shouldn't take to long. On Tom's I cut a section out of his OEM front bumper to make a bracket and attached it to the Abs Tray with a few bolts. It's easier just to pull the tray, mount the pumps, and hook everything up if that's the location you choose. Don't forget to take the extra time to add dielectric grease to the sodered connections before sealing them with heat shrink.

I had a hell of a time lining up the engine skid. I recall telling Tom I thought it took more time than the tuck lol.

What are you doing for onboard air?
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Oh great lol!

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004P9A35E/?tag=wranglerorg-20

I order this little ARB kit instead of doing a permanent install. I might change my mind later but for now I like it. I am able to put my deflators, puncture repair kit and gauge all in the one nice little box, and that will allow me to bring it in different vehicles or let others use it easily on the trail.

A big focus on this build for me is modularity. On my last jeep I had everything in it all the time and it made it very heavy. So this time I am trying to make it very configurable so I can adjust what's in it for each trip. So will probably have a few little boxes and things like this that allow me to grab things quickly depending on what we're doing.
 
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I have the same pump but hardwired in. Other than when I blew a pressure switch at Hollister it's been really good to me. (ARB sent me a new pressure switch and relay no questions asked). Takes about 2 min to fill from 10-25 psi per tire. I've filled up 8 tires in a row and it never stopped running.
 
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