Midnight LJR Build

OK finished relocating and installing the Savvy Under Armor, and recreating the air pumps this weekend, also installed my new Front and rear drive shafts.

Here's a photo of the skid and jeep now. The extra clearance gain really is crazy.

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So now for a mini review.

Pros:
- Obviously the increased clearance in awesome
- Separate crossmember is nice to be able to remove the skid without supporting the engine, I imagine this will be really nice if a I ever need to repair or diagnose a hard problem in those areas while on the trail.
- Stiffer transmission bushings have improved the feeling of the shifter, before I felt I could feel the tranny moving around while shifting witch added to the slop of the shifting.

Cons:
- Increased shifting height inside to where my hand slightly touches AC controls while shifting (probably can live with this one just have to get used to it, or get a new shift now/bend shifter)
.IMG_3437.jpg

- Increase noise while driving, this was one of my bigger concerns but it is only a very small increase so am actually fine with this. ( If the overall noise of the jeep ever starts to bother me I will add sound deadening under the carpet)

- Vibration while idling, this one is a bit more serious and I think people considering this system for a daily driver should find someone with the skid to see if it is worth it to them. There is no rattling going on, I have made clearance at all metal to metal contact I could find. But there is an increase in vibration when stopped that I was expecting. The same bushings that provide the improved shifting feel increase vibration at idle, not enough to make your mirror shake or anything but it is noticeable from before. I don't do much stop and go with this so I think I will get used to and forgot about this. However if you do a lot of stop and go I would really do your research before buying this system.

-Increased driveline angles and the difficulty that those cause, harder to dial pinion angle reduced caster. (see below for ongoing trouble shooting of that)



Those are the main pros and cons and my thoughts on them.

In regards to my current driveline angle and vibration problems. After the initial install I set the pinion angle and had quite bad vibrations. when I got home all my angle measurements had changed. I believe that I had to do so much adjustment that I was not getting accurate readings without driving the jeep in between. So I re-did the front and rear pinion angles and vibration has improved greatly but is still there at about 65-70mph. more work is needed here.

Other small problems I ran into is I had to relocate the fan shroud lower, and am going to have to have the exhaust slight modified because it is very close to the track bar and the suspension won't be able to droop in its current state.

My biggest concern and the one that has me questioning if I will be able to keep the system or not is the Caster. I have to have it checked at an alignment shop after getting the vibrations to go away, I need to check my whole alignment because after adjusting everything now my steering is off center so it is possible my toe has changed adding to the feeling. But basically the Jeep currently feels very floaty on the freeway compared to before. I could drive 75 and it felt rock solid now it feels floaty. However the return to center seems good when doing U-turns.

In summary my current concern is that in order to get the driveline vibes to go away I will have to remove too much caster to retain the enjoyable driving experience this jeep has had before.

@jjvw @tomtaylz @Chris

Were you guys able to achieve adequate Caster and alignment after your tummy tucks with 4" of lift?

I realize I have a bit of trouble shooting to do but to hear that yours is fine would make me feel better =-)
 
After a recent reassessment of several details on my suspension, my front DS is set to 0° at the pinion. The caster is what it is. At first, I noticed the softer steering and intended to add more caster until I noticed a problem. But I never did and I feel less inclined to do so as time passes.
 
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OK finished relocating and installing the Savvy Under Armor, and recreating the air pumps this weekend, also installed my new Front and rear drive shafts.

Here's a photo of the skid and jeep now. The extra clearance gain really is crazy.

View attachment 115573

View attachment 115574

So now for a mini review.

Pros:
- Obviously the increased clearance in awesome
- Separate crossmember is nice to be able to remove the skid without supporting the engine, I imagine this will be really nice if a I ever need to repair or diagnose a hard problem in those areas while on the trail.
- Stiffer transmission bushings have improved the feeling of the shifter, before I felt I could feel the tranny moving around while shifting witch added to the slop of the shifting.

Cons:
- Increased shifting height inside to where my hand slightly touches AC controls while shifting (probably can live with this one just have to get used to it, or get a new shift now/bend shifter)
.View attachment 115578

- Increase noise while driving, this was one of my bigger concerns but it is only a very small increase so am actually fine with this. ( If the overall noise of the jeep ever starts to bother me I will add sound deadening under the carpet)

- Vibration while idling, this one is a bit more serious and I think people considering this system for a daily driver should find someone with the skid to see if it is worth it to them. There is no rattling going on, I have made clearance at all metal to metal contact I could find. But there is an increase in vibration when stopped that I was expecting. The same bushings that provide the improved shifting feel increase vibration at idle, not enough to make your mirror shake or anything but it is noticeable from before. I don't do much stop and go with this so I think I will get used to and forgot about this. However if you do a lot of stop and go I would really do your research before buying this system.

-Increased driveline angles and the difficulty that those cause, harder to dial pinion angle reduced caster. (see below for ongoing trouble shooting of that)



Those are the main pros and cons and my thoughts on them.

In regards to my current driveline angle and vibration problems. After the initial install I set the pinion angle and had quite bad vibrations. when I got home all my angle measurements had changed. I believe that I had to do so much adjustment that I was not getting accurate readings without driving the jeep in between. So I re-did the front and rear pinion angles and vibration has improved greatly but is still there at about 65-70mph. more work is needed here.

Other small problems I ran into is I had to relocate the fan shroud lower, and am going to have to have the exhaust slight modified because it is very close to the track bar and the suspension won't be able to droop in its current state.

My biggest concern and the one that has me questioning if I will be able to keep the system or not is the Caster. I have to have it checked at an alignment shop after getting the vibrations to go away, I need to check my whole alignment because after adjusting everything now my steering is off center so it is possible my toe has changed adding to the feeling. But basically the Jeep currently feels very floaty on the freeway compared to before. I could drive 75 and it felt rock solid now it feels floaty. However the return to center seems good when doing U-turns.

In summary my current concern is that in order to get the driveline vibes to go away I will have to remove too much caster to retain the enjoyable driving experience this jeep has had before.

@jjvw @tomtaylz @Chris

Were you guys able to achieve adequate Caster and alignment after your tummy tucks with 4" of lift?

I realize I have a bit of trouble shooting to do but to hear that yours is fine would make me feel better =-)

Looks great! I had no issues with caster, but I also had a shop do the alignment and set the caster for me :)
 
After a recent reassessment of several details on my suspension, my front DS is set to 0° at the pinion. The caster is what it is. At first, I noticed the softer steering and intended to add more caster until I noticed a problem. But I never did and I feel less inclined to do so as time passes.

Interesting maybe my toe angle got knocked out while messing with the pinion.

Time to crawl back under there.

It is interesting how similar jeeps and knocking over dominos are. :)
 
Got the Gas tank skid installed today.
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Dialed in the front a rear pinion angles so they are exact. Don’t think I have anything I would call driveline vibration anymore. Just the small increase I am getting in NVH from the stiffer crossmember bushings.

Here is the clearance gained from the tummy tuck and the gas tank skid. These are single measurements from the lowest point I could find on each and does not tell the whole story of how much clearance I gained.

17 5/8” - 19 3/8” Gas Tank Skid

16.5” - 19 1/4” tummy tuck

I also did the splash back mod while it was apart and mine was frozen so it will be nice not to get gas all over my shoes every time I fill up.
 
On the Next Venture bumper, how far does the hitch receiver stick out from the face?
 
That bolt hole on either side of the receiver is good to see. I didn't know they were there.
There is 8 across the front. 4 sets of 2

Stock one underneath.

And the frame tie in have 3 per side that go into the frame, and the 2 that tie into the bumper.

So 16 bolts total.
 
That bolt hole on either side of the receiver is good to see. I didn't know they were there.

That’s funny I didn’t notice that either until you pointed it out.

So 10 across the front

2 on bottom

And 6 for frame tie ins.
 
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Spent the day cycling the front and rear suspension.

Get a bit of rubbing on back of the wheel well at full bump. Not sure it’s enough to damage anything but maybe. Problem is I don’t think adding bump will help with the way the currently line up they don’t touch well. It sort of looks like I might need to relocate upper spring perches one day.

Track bar just barely touches the gas tank skid at full straight bump. Tiny bit of grinding should fix that.

Shock body just kisses the spring perch and exhaust and full flex. I think this will be ok.

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Much bigger problems in the front. It believe I simply don’t have enough offset in the front.

I have JK rubicon wheels which have 6.25” backspace and 1.25” wheel spacers.

This puts me at 5” and it’s simply not enough.

I added 4 washers to steering and still rub. And worse then that once I cycled the suspension at full flex the inside of the tire rubs a lot in the shock tower. So there is zero steering available at full flex.

I am going to start another thread and see if anyone knows of quality 2” wheel spacers or if they are even recommended or if I am going to have to start thinking about new wheels.

@jjvw weren't you looking for 2” spacers for JK wheels?

In addition to that my front shocks are slightly too long. I read many people say the 5000x seem long for recommended lift heights and that seems to be the case. There a tiny bit too long at full droop and a bit to long fully compressed. Looks like the next size down will work perfectly for me.

Photos are just of bump stop alignment and available shock travel at straight bump. I had somewhere to be and got in a hurry and forgot to take the other photos.
0050F3F2-4323-445B-9A84-4E4FE8A58CDE.jpeg
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I would flip the rear shocks so the body is up. How much up travel is there from ride height to full bump?
 
I would flip the rear shocks so the body is up. How much up travel is there from ride height to full bump?

I thought twin tubes cannot be run upside down? I could be wrong.

there is 6” of shock showing at ride height and at full bump about .5” of shock showing. So 5.5” up travel.

I need to add probably .5” of bump to keep the tires from touching in the back. But I don’t think the bump stops long up well enough to do that.
 
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I thought twin tubes cannot be run upside down? I could be wrong.

there is 6” of shock showing at ride height and at full bump about .5” of shock showing. So 5.5” up travel.

I need to add probably .5” of bump to keep the tires from touching in the back. But I don’t think the bump stops long up well enough to do that.
You are right about twin tube shocks, the don’t work the same upside down.
 
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It doesn’t seem to me that you need a shorter shock if you bump out with a 1/2” left, you don’t want the shock to be the stop in the uptravel, what is the overall stroke?