OP
Both. linkage on transfer and the shifter fir tranny. 4 banger wasn’t my choice. I got the Jeep for $500 so I can’t complain about the engine.
Motor mount lift (MML) to correct pinion vibrations
- Thread starter Freetj
- Start date
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- vibrations
KCNoDots
TJ Enthusiast
I have a 02 4.0 5spd, but after my 1.25 BL and 1.0 MML I had to adjust my console so shifter could fully seat into 2-4-R. Mine did NOT hit the lower metal tub, but was running into the console itself.
What I did was remove the few bolts holding the front and rear portion of the middle console, slide the entire unit back about .5-1", then use screws to screw the console down in the new position. Shifts perfectly now and you would never even know that it was moved.
What I did was remove the few bolts holding the front and rear portion of the middle console, slide the entire unit back about .5-1", then use screws to screw the console down in the new position. Shifts perfectly now and you would never even know that it was moved.
OP
I have a 4 banger with a MML and 1.25 BL and I trimmed the removable bezel per a CPO video I saw on YouTube. Haven’t had an issue with 2nd, 4th or reverse.
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OP
I will have to explore my options for my shifter. Now that it’s complete I’m trying to figure out my transfer case shifter. First it was off one way. I put the bracket it in and now it seems off too far the other way. I might have to remove it and make my own.
Interesting. In my 2000 SE the transfer case shifter lined back up perfectly. I’m sure it’s due to the 1.25” BL versus your 1”. I wonder if that extra 1/4” makes a difference. When you say it was off, in what way? Are you not able to move it into 4lo?
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OP
Gotcha. Moving the console back might not be the best option. As others have said, a cable shifter might be your best bet. It stinks that something as simple as a BL and MML is causing your shifter issues. As with drivelines, every Jeep is different.
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OP
OP
So I just took my tj for a test drive after the bl and mml. I was waiting on my new shocks to arrive. The driveline vibration is gone now. Yay. The only down side is with the new mml I can feel every vibration from the engine but it’s not even close to the driveline vibration so that’s great. I went with the polyurethane mount. Maybe I should of done rubber. Oh well. Now I need to address the shifter and transfer case shifter issues. I will post as soon as I can get them worked out
I noticed the increase in engine vibration as well when I did my MML. Play around with tightening and loosing the bolts on the engine mount. I found mine loosened a bit and after a slight tightening it was better.
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OP
I resolved my trans shifter issue. I remove my shifter and cut the factory welds. I then shortened it about 3/4” and tacked it back on. Then I discovered that I had to angle it towards the front a little more. I did that. Test fit. Then removed it and finished the weld. I really didn’t want to bend it. That weakens the metal. Shifter is all good now. Now onto the transfer case. I’ll post when I get it worked out.
OP
I removed my shifter finally. I went ahead and cut the factory welds off the shifter and repositioned it. Welded it back up and boom. Good to go. I’ll just order a cable for the transfer case. My newest issue is a vibration sound. I put 1” brown dog mml with poly bushings. I get this weird vibration noise around 2500 rpm. All heat shields are good. No loose bolts or nuts. I can’t find it. Anyone else had this issue?
Have you checked for interference on the passenger side engine mount? You may have to grind a bit of metal off.
OP
I’ll check when I get home today. I don’t think there’s any issue there. It’s hard to pinpoint where the sound is coming from. Even when I’m underneath it. It almost sounds like it’s coming from the tail shaft of the transfer case.
OP