I am always AMAZED at the work you do and the things you come up with to accomplish it.
Nashville TJ's Build - Continued
- Thread starter NashvilleTJ
- Start date
OP
OP
Today was the day of the big cut - and I have to admit to being just a bit nervous. There is certainly the possibility of screwing up the axle. But here goes...
First up, I needed to set up the saw with the correct 6 degree angle for the cut. To make sure it was correct, I initially set the saw to 6 degrees, and then made a test cut with a regular saw blade.
After two test cuts, I dialed the angle in perfectly. Doing it this way ensured the setup was correct before committing to the cast steel.
Happy with the setup, I installed the abrasive blade and set up the jig. One additional thing I had to do to the jig was to cut out two holes to clear the plug welds on the face of the case, since they stood a bit proud.
And then, finally, after all of that prep - I waxed up the jig and saw with wax paper (one of my woodworker's tricks), and made the first cut.
First up, I needed to set up the saw with the correct 6 degree angle for the cut. To make sure it was correct, I initially set the saw to 6 degrees, and then made a test cut with a regular saw blade.
After two test cuts, I dialed the angle in perfectly. Doing it this way ensured the setup was correct before committing to the cast steel.
Happy with the setup, I installed the abrasive blade and set up the jig. One additional thing I had to do to the jig was to cut out two holes to clear the plug welds on the face of the case, since they stood a bit proud.
And then, finally, after all of that prep - I waxed up the jig and saw with wax paper (one of my woodworker's tricks), and made the first cut.
OP
With no turning back now, it was off to the races. I completed this part of the cut in 7 or 8 passes. I previously confirmed that the saw would maintain the cut position relative to the guide when the depth of cut is changed while cutting at an angle. Worked like a charm.
Here is a video of me making the cut.
(708) Shaving the 14 Bolt - YouTube
Here is a video of me making the cut.
(708) Shaving the 14 Bolt - YouTube
OP
And here is the result. A nice, clean, straight cut with no wobble of the abrasive wheel. The saw was able to cut to just shy of 3" into the case.
And the view from inside the case:
And the view from inside the case:
OP
With the cut established and true, it was an easy task to finish up the balance of the cut with the sawzaw. The majority of the sawzaw cut was through the fins.
And just like that, a shaved 14 bolt. Start to finish, I think it took about 20 minutes to complete the cut. Much quicker than the couple hours of planning and prep work - but that effort did pay off in spades.
And just like that, a shaved 14 bolt. Start to finish, I think it took about 20 minutes to complete the cut. Much quicker than the couple hours of planning and prep work - but that effort did pay off in spades.
OP
After a little cosmetic grinding to clean up the case a bit, I bolted the cover and bottom plate back on. It fit like a charm, as the cut came out perfectly.
At the end of the day, I'm very happy with how it came out.
Next step: Learn how to weld cast steel....
At the end of the day, I'm very happy with how it came out.
Next step: Learn how to weld cast steel....
OP
It really does give a full 2" of clearance. You cut off a full 2 1/2" from the bottom of the case. The bottom plate is 1/2" cold rolled, so you net 2". It's pretty cool.
OP
I've also worked out everything I need for the brakes, both front and rear. I've ordered all new parts, including new backing plates for the rear.
In the rear, I'm sticking with the 1 ton Chevy 13" rotors with dual 2.00" piston calipers, and the associated brake-in-hat parking brake setup.
In the front, after talking with Dynatrac I'm going to run the 1 ton setup from a '97 Ford F-350. 13" rotors as well, with dual 2.30" piston calipers. These will bolt right up to the front knuckle on the ProRock. I do have to replace the hub with the 8 on 6.5 version - which was rather pricey - but everything should bolt up. The current Dynalock locking hub should also work with the new hub.
Both the 97 F-350 and the 2003 2500 HD (the donor for the 14 Bolt) run the same front and rear rotor and caliper specs as I'm going with here, so I think the front to rear balance should work. I'm currently running a 3/4" Ton Chevy master cylinder on a hydroboost setup. I'll evaluate whether or not I need to do something there after it is up and running. Worst case I may have a slightly soft pedal, but a soft pedal in the case would mean more pressure at the calipers. We shall see.
In the rear, I'm sticking with the 1 ton Chevy 13" rotors with dual 2.00" piston calipers, and the associated brake-in-hat parking brake setup.
In the front, after talking with Dynatrac I'm going to run the 1 ton setup from a '97 Ford F-350. 13" rotors as well, with dual 2.30" piston calipers. These will bolt right up to the front knuckle on the ProRock. I do have to replace the hub with the 8 on 6.5 version - which was rather pricey - but everything should bolt up. The current Dynalock locking hub should also work with the new hub.
Both the 97 F-350 and the 2003 2500 HD (the donor for the 14 Bolt) run the same front and rear rotor and caliper specs as I'm going with here, so I think the front to rear balance should work. I'm currently running a 3/4" Ton Chevy master cylinder on a hydroboost setup. I'll evaluate whether or not I need to do something there after it is up and running. Worst case I may have a slightly soft pedal, but a soft pedal in the case would mean more pressure at the calipers. We shall see.
Wow I really enjoy watching you work. And those brakes sound like they should work really good.
Awesome write up! The 14 bolt is so much better being trimmed up. I wish I would have done the full cut like yours
OP
I did look into that, but decided to stay with the 30 spline stuff - didn't really know how I would cut off the old spindles and accurately install the larger ones.
OP
Yesterday I pulled out the welder to attached the new cap. I bolted the cover and cap in place, making sure the alignment was good, and threw down a few heavy tacks.
Next, I heated the case and base plate to 400+ degrees and laid down some quite nasty welds. I don't have an alignment rod, or a great way to fixture the axle, so I tried to move around a bit with the heat. Hard to do that on such a small space welding 1/2" plate to a gigantic hunk of cast steel.
Here is the result - I'm not happy at all with how it came out. I think I was a bit too hot on the setting. Started out OK on the right hand side, but went south after that. Good penetration, but ugly fat welds none the less. Definitely not my best work.
Then I rolled it over and heated it up again with the torch, and welded the inside.
Next, I heated the case and base plate to 400+ degrees and laid down some quite nasty welds. I don't have an alignment rod, or a great way to fixture the axle, so I tried to move around a bit with the heat. Hard to do that on such a small space welding 1/2" plate to a gigantic hunk of cast steel.
Here is the result - I'm not happy at all with how it came out. I think I was a bit too hot on the setting. Started out OK on the right hand side, but went south after that. Good penetration, but ugly fat welds none the less. Definitely not my best work.
Then I rolled it over and heated it up again with the torch, and welded the inside.
OP
After finishing up the welding, I spent some time doing some post heating, wrapped it up in a welding blanket and a couple of moving blankets, and set it aside for the night to cool down slowly.
OP
This morning I unwrapped it, looked at those nasty welds, and immediately pulled out the grinder. I am a horrible welder, but a top-flight grinder.
Here it is after cleaning it up a bit. No more sharp edges to catch on the rocks.
Here it is after cleaning it up a bit. No more sharp edges to catch on the rocks.
OP
After finishing up the welding last night I was catching up on a buddy's build thread over on JF (Chris's - 92VegasYJ). He was talking about how his axle is bent and was working on getting it straightened out - and I freaked. Did I throw enough heat at the 14b to bend it? I realized that I should have checked the axle for straightness prior to all the work - but I did not. So, better now than never.
To check his, Chris used a set of 3D printed pucks he got from a guy on youtube who posted a video on how to straighten a '60. After seeing that, I came up with a way to build a set of pucks myself.
First up, I made two end pieces which would fit snug around the spindles, with a hole for a string dead center.
Then I used one of the bearing races as a template to cut the center puck, marked it for center, and cut a small slot for the string to pass through. Here it is all set up:
To check his, Chris used a set of 3D printed pucks he got from a guy on youtube who posted a video on how to straighten a '60. After seeing that, I came up with a way to build a set of pucks myself.
First up, I made two end pieces which would fit snug around the spindles, with a hole for a string dead center.
Then I used one of the bearing races as a template to cut the center puck, marked it for center, and cut a small slot for the string to pass through. Here it is all set up:
Now I know I'm a GOOBER welder so my opinion means shit but IMO that looks great. Better than I could have done.
OP
To get a measurement, rotate the disk so that the string is centered in the slot - and that line points toward the bend. And sure enough - it's out. 70 thou by my measurement. About 1/16".
But - it's bent in the opposite direction I would have expected from heating the case. If excess heat had caused the case to contact on the side of the new cap, it should have pulled the tubes toward that side of the case. The bend goes in the opposite direction. So maybe this was there all along? I really wish I had checked before cutting into the case.
So help me out - what is close enough? I've heard these axles don't come out of the factory dead straight, but I don't know how much would be acceptable. Should I be straightening this thing?
But - it's bent in the opposite direction I would have expected from heating the case. If excess heat had caused the case to contact on the side of the new cap, it should have pulled the tubes toward that side of the case. The bend goes in the opposite direction. So maybe this was there all along? I really wish I had checked before cutting into the case.
So help me out - what is close enough? I've heard these axles don't come out of the factory dead straight, but I don't know how much would be acceptable. Should I be straightening this thing?