Need advice: 4-inch lift option for 2006 Rubicon

[Justanotherjeepguy]

I have a 2006 Rubicon with the 4-speed automatic transmission and Dana 44s in the front and rear (I believe it's the 4.10 gearing). I want to lift it 4" and put 33" tires on it (probably 33x10.5—I like the pizza cutter look).

My goal is to have a very capable rig to take on a trip from Florida all the way up the west coast into Canada (stopping everywhere in between). I want to hit a lot of trails on the way and take my time. The Jeep is also my daily driver, so I want a good mixture of comfort and versatility while off-roading. The trip could last anywhere from a month to a few months (my wife and I have a business that we manage remotely, so there's no real time frame).

My current budget is around $4-5k for the lift (the wife has approved, with little to no convincing!). Is that a realistic budget?

So far, I've learned that I have a few options:
• Curry or savvy 4" suspension lift
• OME 2.5" lift + 1.25" body lift (just under 4")
• Custom pick-and-choose lift

It seems that many people recommend the 4" Savvy lift (I think this one?) and the Rancho RS5000x shocks for a top-of-the-line rig. The total is around 3k for parts alone.

My questions are:

1. Is the Savvy lift kit all-inclusive? Or are these other components that I will need to add?

2. I read that I won't need an SYE with the Rubicon transfer case. Are there any parts of the Savvy 4" lift package that I won't need?

3. I have only a small amount of experience working on Jeeps, so I may have a professional install the lift. About what sort of price am I looking at for installation? I live near Daytona Beach, FL if that helps me get a closer idea of pricing.

4. Will the OME + 1.25 BL work/feel just the same? Or am I better off spending the extra money for the 4" suspension lift?

5. Do I need to regear? I will likely spend a lot of time on the interstate, so I don't want to have problems speeding up/merging. If I do need to regear, I may end up going with the OME + BL set up so it works within my budget. But a 2.5" lift would also eliminate the possible need for a regear, wouldn't it?

6. Are there other options that I should consider? Would a pick-and-choose strategy—even though I don't know where to start—help me save money and build a better lift?

7. I have a winch (on the factory bumper) and a couple of smaller things installed (like an air compressor), is there anything I need to consider for the extra weight?

Although I've done a ton of research over the last couple of months, there's just so much to learn. I read through the beginner's guide to lifting your Jeep forum that Chris started, which was very helpful. However, I'm hoping you guys can help give me insight into what the best option is for my rig and budget, and help point out anything that I've missed. Links to products would be helpful too.

Thanks in advance.

 

[mattcogdell]

1.) All inclusive depends on your definition. The kit will include everything but shocks.

2.) You need everything in the kit. Lift the jeep, measure for your driveshaft and have a repeatable shop build you one. No SYE needed with a rubicon.

3.) Labor $600-$1000. Depending on what all they do. Good time to relocate your upper perches.

4.) Better off just going to a 4" lift depending on your definition of wheeling.

5.) With an auto I may consider a regear. Just have to see how it drives with 4.10s first.

6.) Doesn't sound like much weight if you're using the factory bumpers.

With parts (lift, shocks, driveshaft, etc.), Labor and Tires you're maxing out your budget. If you need a regear you will need more money.

 

[tworley]

Can't go wrong at all with the savvy lift. My only comment would be to have the savvy body lift included. When I ordered from savvy before they included a jks kit, it'll sag. It has everything you need minus the shocks (youll be happy with the ranchos). As mattcogdell said, all you will need is a double cardan driveshaft. Tom Wood can set you up once you get the correct measurements after you install the lift. I'd suggest a regear, but I know what is left on the table when you dont. Regearing gives you power back, plus its nice not having to lay into the peddle to get up a hill, west has some steep passes where gearing will definitely help. Weight can add up awfully fast. If you do plan on adding any exterior accessories--keep it light with aluminum. A synthetic winch cable can save you 30 lbs,

 

[Justanotherjeepguy]

1.) All inclusive depends on your definition. The kit will include everything but shocks.

2.) You need everything in the kit. Lift the jeep, measure for your driveshaft and have a repeatable shop build you one. No SYE needed with a rubicon.

3.) Labor $600-$1000. Depending on what all they do. Good time to relocate your upper perches.

4.) Better off just going to a 4" lift depending on your definition of wheeling.

5.) With an auto I may consider a regear. Just have to see how it drives with 4.10s first.

6.) Doesn't sound like much weight if you're using the factory bumpers.

With parts (lift, shocks, driveshaft, etc.), Labor and Tires you're maxing out your budget. If you need a regear you will need more money.

Thanks! I’ll have research what upper perches are, I’m not familiar with that.

What do you mean by measure for the driveshaft and have them build me one (build me a what?)? Sorry if I sound ignorant.

Yeah, I have a separate budget for wheels/tires. But I guess the regear will probably still go over my budget without considering the wheels/tires.

 

[mattcogdell]

Thanks! I’ll have research what upper perches are, I’m not familiar with that.

What do you mean by measure for the driveshaft and have them build me one (build me a what?)? Sorry if I sound ignorant.

Yeah, I have a separate budget for wheels/tires. But I guess the regear will probably still go over my budget without considering the wheels/tires.

The upper perch is the part that holds the upper part of your rear coil spring in place. With 4" of lift you will have a good amount of bow in your coil spring. It is a good idea to correct this to realign your bump stops. Not necessary but just a good idea.

Lifting the jeep that amount will require a longer driveshaft which will require you providing a driveshaft company with your new required longer driveshaft length measurement. This is done once the lift is installed and the jeep sitting on its own weight on level ground. The shop that installs the lift can do this for you as I'd assume they do it often.

 

[Viking Jeeper]

I have been on here for about a year and half and never understood the re-gearing... until I drove a Rubicon with an auto and 33's. Even with the 4.11 gears it was a dog with 33's. I really wanted a manual so I kept looking. As far as lift, I would suggest the 2 1/5 inch lift and body lift with Rancho shocks.

 

[Jerry Bransford]

Driving on 33" tires with your 42RLE transmission will very quickly convince you that you need to regear your axles to a more appropriate ratio which would be 4.88 or 5.13. Performance would be terrible, the engine would be lugging, acceleration would be terrible, and even your mpg would suffer due to the engine lugging/not operating in its appropriate power band.

I'd move some of that budget over to the costs of regearing or you won't enjoy all of the other upgrades you're planning. Seriously.

 

[L J]

If your going to stay at 33s and only do mild trails, forest service roads etc I'd go with a 2.5" spring, 1.25" Savvy body lift and Rancho 5000Xs. Put the money saved into a 5.13 regear.

 

[bobthetj03]

You'll have a better chance at not needing a new drive shaft with the 2.5" lift and a 1.25" BL. Less chance for drive shaft vibes post lift.

 

[Justanotherjeepguy]

Driving on 33" tires with your 42RLE transmission will very quickly convince you that you need to regear your axles to a more appropriate ratio which would be 4.88 or 5.13. Performance would be terrible, the engine would be lugging, acceleration would be terrible, and even your mpg would suffer due to the engine lugging/not operating in its appropriate power band.

I'd move some of that budget over to the costs of regearing or you won't enjoy all of the other upgrades you're planning. Seriously.

Thanks Jerry,
So in this case, would it be a better idea to go the OME 2.5” + 1.25” body lift route with a regear (like another person suggested)?
Also, is it better to do 4.88 or 5.13? What are the trade-offs to each?

 

[Justanotherjeepguy]

I have been on here for about a year and half and never understood the re-gearing... until I drove a Rubicon with an auto and 33's. Even with the 4.11 gears it was a dog with 33's. I really wanted a manual so I kept looking. As far as lift, I would suggest the 2 1/5 inch lift and body lift with Rancho shocks.

Thanks! This helps. So, you’re suggesting going the 2.5” OME + 1.25” BL + Rancho shocks and regearing?

 

[Justanotherjeepguy]

If your going to stay at 33s and only do mild trails, forest service roads etc I'd go with a 2.5" spring, 1.25" Savvy body lift and Rancho 5000Xs. Put the money saved into a 5.13 regear.

Thanks! This seems to be what everyone is recommending. I really appreciate the feedback.

 

[Axeman]

Thanks! This seems to be what everyone is recommending. I really appreciate the feedback.

This is what I am currently installing in mine. It seems to be the general consensus for a moderate lift for 33s without having to do all kinds of fabrication to spring perches or shock mounts. You're fortunate to already have the Rubicon, I am pretty far down the rabbit hole with installing a Rubicon Dana 44 into my TJ X. If you do go the OME/Savvy BL route, you may still need to add rear upper adjustable control arms or a MML to help your pinion angle. I'd ask someone with a Rubicon to see if its necessary.

 

[mattcogdell]

Thanks! This seems to be what everyone is recommending. I really appreciate the feedback.

Very dependent on your end goal and budget. If you’re planning to do some serious wheeling you’d be better off to keep saving rather than spending money now.

I started with the OME lift, 1.25” BL and 33s.
Then went went to Savvy’s 4” short arm 35s and all supporting mods. Then Savvys mid Arm with the same 35s. You can save a lot doing it once.

 

[Chris]

1. Is the Savvy lift kit all-inclusive? Or are these other components that I will need to add?

You'll need to get shocks, a double cardan driveshaft, and I believe that is about it.

2. I read that I won't need an SYE with the Rubicon transfer case. Are there any parts of the Savvy 4" lift package that I won't need?

Nope, you'll need all of it.

3. I have only a small amount of experience working on Jeeps, so I may have a professional install the lift. About what sort of price am I looking at for installation? I live near Daytona Beach, FL if that helps me get a closer idea of pricing.

Hard to say as shops vary so much in price, but I would suspect it will take them a day to install, so I would say about $1000-$1500 for labor.

4. Will the OME + 1.25 BL work/feel just the same? Or am I better off spending the extra money for the 4" suspension lift?

Depends on what you want to do with it. The 4" suspension lift will allow you to run longer shocks, and would be the preferred setup if you plan on doing a lot of off-roading.

5. Do I need to regear? I will likely spend a lot of time on the interstate, so I don't want to have problems speeding up/merging. If I do need to regear, I may end up going with the OME + BL set up so it works within my budget. But a 2.5" lift would also eliminate the possible need for a regear, wouldn't it?

You don't need to, but you'd be silly not to.

6. Are there other options that I should consider? Would a pick-and-choose strategy—even though I don't know where to start—help me save money and build a better lift?

The Savvy setup is IMHO the best short arm setup you can get if you have the money and want to run 33s, or 35s with the addition of a 1.25" body lift.

There are plenty of other options, but my preference is Savvy. Others will tell you Metalcloak, Clayton, etc.. No one is wrong, everyone just has a preference.

7. I have a winch (on the factory bumper) and a couple of smaller things installed (like an air compressor), is there anything I need to consider for the extra weight?

Nope.

 

[Viking Jeeper]

Thanks! This helps. So, you’re suggesting going the 2.5” OME + 1.25” BL + Rancho shocks and regearing?

yes but others here have way more experience

 

[Hokahay]

Here I have a 3" Savvy lift with a 1.25 inch body lift and the 1" motor mount lift from Savvy to accommodate their original surfboard tummy tuck. Tires are 33" MTRs.

I had 4.56 gears for quite awhile. Once I discovered revelation was now making 5.13s for my HP30 I stepped up and had that done. 4.56 was a bit of a dog. The 5.13s are much better with the 42RLE. At 70 I am about 2600 RPMS.

With 33" tires and a 3" lift 1" body lift and the tummy tuck it has good clearance.

For shocks I have Fox I bought from Gerald as well.