Sorry I mean to say the transmission was lifted. I meant to say that it wasn’t dropped. Whoops! So many things that can be done to these things. I am almost sure it doesn’t have a TC drop, but can provide pictures to confirm! It may have a MML already then like you said. I honestly have no clue what the previous owners did. I just know I’ve been having to replace and fix things they didn’t and I’ve been “upgrading” as I replace them. I don’t even know what type of springs they put in it for the lift or how long ago it was done. I am still learning as I find out about new things so I’m curious to see if it has that MML, and or possibly a BL as well. My roommate had a stock lift so I can compare.First of all let me just say it's weird but kind of cool the forum automatically adds "(Motor Mount Lift)" after MML (Motor Mount Lift).
The MML (Motor Mount Lift) raises the engine, which tilts the TC output shaft down in the rear and slightly improves DS angles with the hope you won't need a TC drop once you lift and keep stock TC skid, rear DS, CA's, etc. Once you've upgraded to a TT, you can still keep it bc it's still improving the angles. It's typically installed with a BL so you don't have to relocate the fan shroud, since the fan shroud is part of the body and the fan is part of the engine. For example, when I was a poor college kid and had a 2" BB, one of the early mods I did to my '04 TJR was a 1.25" BL and 1" MML (Motor Mount Lift) because I knew I'd eventually be lifting to 3", wouldn't have funds for a TT/DS/etc., and didn't want to have to do a TC drop.
I don't recall ever hearing of a transmission being lifted to accommodate a suspension lift... you'd either lift it via a MML (Motor Mount Lift) or somehow at the transmission mount inside the TC skid, but that seems like it would contribute to vibes rather than help prevent them. If you're sure you don't have a TC drop then maybe you already have a MML (Motor Mount Lift)? They come in two flavors, either a spacer/block under the OEM mounts, or a replacement mount that is taller than OEM.
4" suspension lift on your TJR would make the rear DS angle even more severe and likely require either a TC drop (bad for offroading) or new rear CV DS and CAs (cost $$$), whereas 3" lift (that you already have) plus 1.25" BL/1"MML (Motor Mount Lift) would have roughly the same effect by giving your tires additional clearance inside the fenderwells. So theoretically, if you can fit 35's with a 4" lift then it should also fit with a 3" lift + BL.
However, it really comes down to what is limiting your suspension travel, i.e. the reason why you've set your bumpstops where they are. For example, if your shocks are the limiting factor now and your 33s are starting to hit/rub at the same time, then a BL would help clear 35s while bumpstops would remain where they are. On the other hand, if your shocks have room but your 33s are hitting, then a BL would give you additional travel, but if you went with 35s you'd keep roughly the same travel as your 33s without a BL.
The other difference between an extra 1" of suspension travel and 1" of BL is your COG will become higher with the longer springs.
First of all let me just say it's weird but kind of cool the forum automatically adds "(Motor Mount Lift)" after MML (Motor Mount Lift).
Gotta say that pic Im shooting for with my build. Need a lil mor MAN in it so 37s but that pic looks freakin BADACE
He seems to have his priorities in order with future upgrades to accommodate 35's. In other words prepared for future mods if needed...35s can be a rabbit hole. Stick will 33s. At least until you really know how much money and/or how much wheeling is in your future. Especially if it's your daily driver.
My tires lasted 7 years and I thought I was finally ready to pull the trigger. Guess what, I bought another set of 33s and follow jeeps on 35s all day long (and saved a bunch of money).
Strongly agree.stick with 33s. Wait to put on 35s when you're done with school and have the mods to support them.
I got this Jeep in February. Came with a 3 in suspension lift, Since then, I have replaced the shocks, and 2 lower control arms so far. The shocks I have can withstand a 4.5 in lift. I was looking into the possibility of buying new coils with a 4.5 in if I needed them to help with clearance instead of the body lift, and BML for the 35s given that the coils I am looking at are not that far off from the cost of the BML + Motor mount. I don’t do off-roading at the moment.You're kind of all over the place.
I'm confused....first you're talking 35's on a stock 3" lift and can they fit to now you're asking if stock driveshafts can live with a 4.5 lift...whilst talking about 35" tires and not wanting to spend more money just yet beyond tires.
Unless the lift fairy brought you a 4.5 kit you spent or are spending money on a 4.5 kit now...???
I can tell you this again..I got this Jeep in February. Came with a 3 in suspension lift, Since then, I have replaced the shocks, and 2 lower control arms so far. The shocks I have can withstand a 4.5 in lift. I was looking into the possibility of buying new coils with a 4.5 in if I needed them to help with clearance instead of the body lift, and BML for the 35s given that the coils I am looking at are not that far off from the cost of the BML + Motor mount. I don’t do off-roading at the moment.
if I were to put those coils instead, I know my geometry would be wack and that’s when I would need to look into buying driveshafts, control arms, etc etc. Since tires are a priority, I was just wondering if I did 35s, and got the 4.5 coils, if the other stuff could wait for like 2 months. I don’t want to be driving around 2 more months with these tires.
I don’t know the details, but a friend ran 35’s with 2 in lift, and 3/4 body lift (total of 2.75 in). He had metal cloak flares so I’m assuming that’s what gave him clearance without necessarily having to go to a 4 in suspension lift for the 35’s. Keep in mind he off roads a lot so he needs that extra clearance. I do not off-road a lot at the moment.
Thanks for the input! I appreciate it. I will look into this in the next few days since I won’t be driving anywhere soon.I can tell you this again..
All 35"s are not created equally.
Some might be 34.2, I think I've even seen a 33.8 be called a 35. Some go the other way too. A 36" swamper us actually 36.3 abd 13.8 wide.
Hardly a 36 x 12.5 wide tire.
Can a set of 35's fit? Possibly. Not off roading whatsoever? Perhaps they can. The actual specs will matter.
Just remember how much your tire increases is only half in each direction. A 33 to a 35 if they're both equal to their listed height...is really a difference of one inch in each direction.
Could you technically fit 35's as your Jeep sits...
I can only say possibly.
Pick a brand of tire abd look at actual specs. Real specs. Start there.
Beautiful. My advice on 35's- don't, especially if you don't need the clearance and certainly if you cant spare the cash. 33's can be very potent, and far less drama. I'm not wholly against 35's, but I'm against all the headaches you get if you can't set it up right.stick with 33s. Wait to put on 35s when you're done with school and have the mods to support them.
I probably come across wrong when it comes to this subject.I'll be the first to tell you that I'm not much of a mechanic. I recently bought my first jeep and looked at several. My wife was with me on a few that I looked at. She had trouble getting into Jeeps with 35's and is ok with the 33's that came with the Jeep. I'm not much of an off road guy, so I started looking only at Jeeps with 33 or smaller. I like the height of the 33's an they perform well.