Need advice on 35” tires

First of all let me just say it's weird but kind of cool the forum automatically adds "(Motor Mount Lift)" after MML (Motor Mount Lift).



The MML (Motor Mount Lift) raises the engine, which tilts the TC output shaft down in the rear and slightly improves DS angles with the hope you won't need a TC drop once you lift and keep stock TC skid, rear DS, CA's, etc. Once you've upgraded to a TT, you can still keep it bc it's still improving the angles. It's typically installed with a BL so you don't have to relocate the fan shroud, since the fan shroud is part of the body and the fan is part of the engine. For example, when I was a poor college kid and had a 2" BB, one of the early mods I did to my '04 TJR was a 1.25" BL and 1" MML (Motor Mount Lift) because I knew I'd eventually be lifting to 3", wouldn't have funds for a TT/DS/etc., and didn't want to have to do a TC drop.

I don't recall ever hearing of a transmission being lifted to accommodate a suspension lift... you'd either lift it via a MML (Motor Mount Lift) or somehow at the transmission mount inside the TC skid, but that seems like it would contribute to vibes rather than help prevent them. If you're sure you don't have a TC drop then maybe you already have a MML (Motor Mount Lift)? They come in two flavors, either a spacer/block under the OEM mounts, or a replacement mount that is taller than OEM.



4" suspension lift on your TJR would make the rear DS angle even more severe and likely require either a TC drop (bad for offroading) or new rear CV DS and CAs (cost $$$), whereas 3" lift (that you already have) plus 1.25" BL/1"MML (Motor Mount Lift) would have roughly the same effect by giving your tires additional clearance inside the fenderwells. So theoretically, if you can fit 35's with a 4" lift then it should also fit with a 3" lift + BL.

However, it really comes down to what is limiting your suspension travel, i.e. the reason why you've set your bumpstops where they are. For example, if your shocks are the limiting factor now and your 33s are starting to hit/rub at the same time, then a BL would help clear 35s while bumpstops would remain where they are. On the other hand, if your shocks have room but your 33s are hitting, then a BL would give you additional travel, but if you went with 35s you'd keep roughly the same travel as your 33s without a BL.

The other difference between an extra 1" of suspension travel and 1" of BL is your COG will become higher with the longer springs.
Sorry I mean to say the transmission was lifted. I meant to say that it wasn’t dropped. Whoops! So many things that can be done to these things. I am almost sure it doesn’t have a TC drop, but can provide pictures to confirm! It may have a MML already then like you said. I honestly have no clue what the previous owners did. I just know I’ve been having to replace and fix things they didn’t and I’ve been “upgrading” as I replace them. I don’t even know what type of springs they put in it for the lift or how long ago it was done. I am still learning as I find out about new things so I’m curious to see if it has that MML, and or possibly a BL as well. My roommate had a stock lift so I can compare.

I am just going to do a quick google search to see where I’m supposed to be looking for.

and thanks for clarifying with the suspension lift! I see now it’s more about the clearance of the fan shroud and not necessarily the amount of suspension lift it has (as long as the fan clears with the MML and BL). And of course, suspension lift like you said would change the angles, would need new DS etc. That makes total sense! Thank you!

you would be surprised, I actually don’t have any bump stops. It didn’t come with them when I got them and it doesn’t hit (since I don’t do off-roading at the moment). I’ve been told over and over on this forum to put them on, but just haven’t gotten around it since they haven’t caused issues right now.
 
First of all let me just say it's weird but kind of cool the forum automatically adds "(Motor Mount Lift)" after MML (Motor Mount Lift).

I noticed this when I posted as well. Wonder if it does same for BL ?

*Nope but maybe something @Chris has planned. I get impression he is constantly upgrading the forum but is seamless so most of us don’t notice.
 
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I would suggest Savvy BL as is solid pucks but the install process should be same. I think this has been shared in other threads but to give you idea what are getting yourself into should go that route.

 
I echo again advising highly against buying used.
Tires.....especially if a decent brand to begin with are fairly expensive brand new for 33" abd 35"

#1 people tend to over price their used tires like that
#2 what's he supposed to do if he buys them and finds out two of then have been wearing wrong because the seller vehicle to which they were mounted had some worn components in the front suspension. To the highly trained eye that can be caught but even then not always a guarantee to be noticed. It can be extremely hard to impossible to re wear a set of tires back to running true.
Now the OP is out a pile of money but het they own two nice used tires but two wuth hi-lo lugs slapping the pavement.

Buying used is also a pain in the ass finding a tread you want and brand.
Let's not forget 15" used to be a heavily used size tire. Those days are long gone. As in damn near MIA. 16's are pretty much in the same boat. Obsolete in a sense.
Now it's more like 17 is the most common with 20's gaining ground.
That just makes it even ridiculously harder to try and nab a good set of used 33 inch on 15 or 16's.

#3, Are all 35's created equal in real size measurement? No.
Some are 34.2, some are 33.9, some are 35.8...as examples and widths are highly sporadic as well. A 36 12.50 15 Swamper is actually a 36.3 tall and 13.8 wide. But it's called a 36 12.5 x 15

All these specs can be found within any tire mfg data of a particular style.
 
35s can be a rabbit hole. Stick will 33s. At least until you really know how much money and/or how much wheeling is in your future. Especially if it's your daily driver.
My tires lasted 7 years and I thought I was finally ready to pull the trigger. Guess what, I bought another set of 33s and follow jeeps on 35s all day long (and saved a bunch of money).
 
35s can be a rabbit hole. Stick will 33s. At least until you really know how much money and/or how much wheeling is in your future. Especially if it's your daily driver.
My tires lasted 7 years and I thought I was finally ready to pull the trigger. Guess what, I bought another set of 33s and follow jeeps on 35s all day long (and saved a bunch of money).
He seems to have his priorities in order with future upgrades to accommodate 35's. In other words prepared for future mods if needed...

He also seems to be set on wanting 35's.

My take is this...his current tires are a hazard to everyone including the OP and innocent passing motorists.

If he really wants 35's he should hurry the hell up and get some good rubber on that jeep asap. That right now is his #1 priority!
 
Still trying to weigh out the pros and cons of each.
If I did 35... what else would I need to look into? Other than control arms, driveshafts, bigger brakes?

is it even possible to run let’s say stock driveshaft and mostly stock control arms with a 4.5 suspension lift, is it absolutely a no go? I will be working over the holidays. The plan was to save up some money to put into the Jeep given it needs maintainance anyway. Don’t know how old the springs are on this thing or brand, quality. As far as I know, previous owners just bought the cheapest and improvised along the way to make things fit permanently (ex drilling holes where they shouldn’t to have the stock track bar fit with the lift is read of buying and adjustable one, etc). I wouldn’t doubt the springs it has are extremely old, and the cheapest they found to lift it....

tires are priority now. I just need to see if I can put down the money for the 35’s and in maybe 2 months, I can get the longer driveshafts and the rest of control arms (just got lower metal cloak adjustable )
 
You're kind of all over the place.

I'm confused....first you're talking 35's on a stock 3" lift and can they fit to now you're asking if stock driveshafts can live with a 4.5 lift...whilst talking about 35" tires and not wanting to spend more money just yet beyond tires.

Unless the lift fairy brought you a 4.5 kit you spent or are spending money on a 4.5 kit now...???
 
You're kind of all over the place.

I'm confused....first you're talking 35's on a stock 3" lift and can they fit to now you're asking if stock driveshafts can live with a 4.5 lift...whilst talking about 35" tires and not wanting to spend more money just yet beyond tires.

Unless the lift fairy brought you a 4.5 kit you spent or are spending money on a 4.5 kit now...???
I got this Jeep in February. Came with a 3 in suspension lift, Since then, I have replaced the shocks, and 2 lower control arms so far. The shocks I have can withstand a 4.5 in lift. I was looking into the possibility of buying new coils with a 4.5 in if I needed them to help with clearance instead of the body lift, and BML for the 35s given that the coils I am looking at are not that far off from the cost of the BML + Motor mount. I don’t do off-roading at the moment.

if I were to put those coils instead, I know my geometry would be wack and that’s when I would need to look into buying driveshafts, control arms, etc etc. Since tires are a priority, I was just wondering if I did 35s, and got the 4.5 coils, if the other stuff could wait for like 2 months. I don’t want to be driving around 2 more months with these tires.

I don’t know the details, but a friend ran 35’s with 2 in lift, and 3/4 body lift (total of 2.75 in). He had metal cloak flares so I’m assuming that’s what gave him clearance without necessarily having to go to a 4 in suspension lift for the 35’s. Keep in mind he off roads a lot so he needs that extra clearance. I do not off-road a lot at the moment.
 
I got this Jeep in February. Came with a 3 in suspension lift, Since then, I have replaced the shocks, and 2 lower control arms so far. The shocks I have can withstand a 4.5 in lift. I was looking into the possibility of buying new coils with a 4.5 in if I needed them to help with clearance instead of the body lift, and BML for the 35s given that the coils I am looking at are not that far off from the cost of the BML + Motor mount. I don’t do off-roading at the moment.

if I were to put those coils instead, I know my geometry would be wack and that’s when I would need to look into buying driveshafts, control arms, etc etc. Since tires are a priority, I was just wondering if I did 35s, and got the 4.5 coils, if the other stuff could wait for like 2 months. I don’t want to be driving around 2 more months with these tires.

I don’t know the details, but a friend ran 35’s with 2 in lift, and 3/4 body lift (total of 2.75 in). He had metal cloak flares so I’m assuming that’s what gave him clearance without necessarily having to go to a 4 in suspension lift for the 35’s. Keep in mind he off roads a lot so he needs that extra clearance. I do not off-road a lot at the moment.
I can tell you this again..
All 35"s are not created equally.
Some might be 34.2, I think I've even seen a 33.8 be called a 35. Some go the other way too. A 36" swamper us actually 36.3 abd 13.8 wide.
Hardly a 36 x 12.5 wide tire.

Can a set of 35's fit? Possibly. Not off roading whatsoever? Perhaps they can. The actual specs will matter.

Just remember how much your tire increases is only half in each direction. A 33 to a 35 if they're both equal to their listed height...is really a difference of one inch in each direction.

Could you technically fit 35's as your Jeep sits...
I can only say possibly.
Pick a brand of tire abd look at actual specs. Real specs. Start there.
 
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I can tell you this again..
All 35"s are not created equally.
Some might be 34.2, I think I've even seen a 33.8 be called a 35. Some go the other way too. A 36" swamper us actually 36.3 abd 13.8 wide.
Hardly a 36 x 12.5 wide tire.

Can a set of 35's fit? Possibly. Not off roading whatsoever? Perhaps they can. The actual specs will matter.

Just remember how much your tire increases is only half in each direction. A 33 to a 35 if they're both equal to their listed height...is really a difference of one inch in each direction.

Could you technically fit 35's as your Jeep sits...
I can only say possibly.
Pick a brand of tire abd look at actual specs. Real specs. Start there.
Thanks for the input! I appreciate it. I will look into this in the next few days since I won’t be driving anywhere soon.
 
stick with 33s. Wait to put on 35s when you're done with school and have the mods to support them.
Beautiful. My advice on 35's- don't, especially if you don't need the clearance and certainly if you cant spare the cash. 33's can be very potent, and far less drama. I'm not wholly against 35's, but I'm against all the headaches you get if you can't set it up right.
 
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I'll be the first to tell you that I'm not much of a mechanic. I recently bought my first jeep and looked at several. My wife was with me on a few that I looked at. She had trouble getting into Jeeps with 35's and is ok with the 33's that came with the Jeep. I'm not much of an off road guy, so I started looking only at Jeeps with 33 or smaller. I like the height of the 33's an they perform well.
 
I'll be the first to tell you that I'm not much of a mechanic. I recently bought my first jeep and looked at several. My wife was with me on a few that I looked at. She had trouble getting into Jeeps with 35's and is ok with the 33's that came with the Jeep. I'm not much of an off road guy, so I started looking only at Jeeps with 33 or smaller. I like the height of the 33's an they perform well.
I probably come across wrong when it comes to this subject.

There are a lot of guys that need the clearance and they get the job done with 35" tires.

I've always held the opinion to run them just for the look of running them, and not do all the things that make them work correctly it's just a lot of compromise for show.

Putting them on a 4 cylinder to me is an exercise in futility.

That's just me. What anybody wants to do is their business... I've had good success with 33-in tires and in my mind the bottom line is the smaller the tire, the less drama you have making it all work.

I will balance that with the statement that we have guys on here that can run anything on these things and do whatever it takes to make it all jive.
 
my opinion, found with 35’s for looks is easily as valid as doing it for wheeling clearance. It’s about having fun, I can promise you wouldn’t be in the first 20 million guys in America that pit mods on a vehicle for looks. Who cares, if these guys can get you enough clearance for street use 35’s don’t put on 33’s and wait.

Just own it, don’t come back and whine if something goes wrong when you try that old off-road trail, ha.