You’re fucking up by not walking in with a 12 pack of PBR’s, walking past the front counter, and putting them in the fridge. Then, patiently waiting for them to smile and ask you what you need. Just sayin!
Need new engine and opinions
- Thread starter mattoxnc85
- Start date
You’re fucking up by not walking in with a 12 pack of PBR’s, walking past the front counter, and putting them in the fridge. Then, patiently waiting for them to smile and ask you what you need. Just sayin!
Titian ,close to me ,talked to the guy seems like good remans,they don’t come with the new beefed up head,but can be added,most definitely get the head upgrade.
One of the reasons why I went with Titan was they were the only reman company I called that understood what the Tupy head was and assured me that my engine would have a Tupy head on it.
I called at least five other reman places and all of them were basically you get what you get. All the heads are the same.
Good engine shops are busy. It's a dying field with no young blood.
Guy told me they don’t get any tupys,but can pay extra (it’s on the order form) for an optional Clearwater head?
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I think the Clearwater heads are supposed to be the new casting that's "fixed" from what I've heard. Not 100% on that though.
And just for reference, they only thing keeping you from using older [better flowing] heads is the lack of a mounting boss for the coil rail and the exhaust ports are bigger which would cause a performance issue with the factory later style manifolds blocking off part of the ports. If you figured out a way to mount the rail (or do away with the rail) and used an aftermarket header, you could use an earlier head.
And just for reference, they only thing keeping you from using older [better flowing] heads is the lack of a mounting boss for the coil rail and the exhaust ports are bigger which would cause a performance issue with the factory later style manifolds blocking off part of the ports. If you figured out a way to mount the rail (or do away with the rail) and used an aftermarket header, you could use an earlier head.
Wanted to get up here and give an update. Reman engine has been running good so far. Put right around 600 miles on it now. Just went to do the first oil change and because it had a small leak I pulled the oil pan to see where it was coming from and found this. Cam bearings look to be shot. Emailed the engine company to see what to do. I will say they’ve been very responsive. I’ll try and keep updating on what happens from here.
I too am curious who the rebuilder was. Not that it matters in your specific case, but I was told that squished cam bearing like yours are a result of too heavy/strong valve springs. Does any know if that's right or wrong?
I think it's more likely improper installation. That or oil starvation cooking the bearings, but I'm just guessing. I don't see valve springs doing that. @Jezza would likely have some insight.
I had a similar issue with my cam bearings failing. Mine was due at least partially to the oil holes in the bearings not being inline with the slots in the block. I did some research when it happened and the other causes were poor bearing quality, bent camshaft, cam journal surface finish being too rough and excessive valve spring pressure. I addressed all of them and it seems to be fine now.
I read that nitriding could possibly warp a cam. Idk if he did it but i asked the guy who assembled my short block to take a straight edge to my cam before installation. Did anything stand out to you from your list of potential issues?
and mine had been nitrided. It was slightly bent and I had it straitened.
Update:
I wanted to wait to see what the remanufacture said before I posted a name. I believe I mentioned it in my original post but maybe not. It is from titan. I’ve been back and forth the last couple of days with them. They’re under the impression it was lack of oil. Unfortunately one of the heat tabs melted some. It was one on the freeze plug. Which is weird because the one right next to the thermostat housing looks fine. I know the freeze plug is thinner than the block so maybe that’s why? I was told these tabs are rated for 240-250. I don’t remember it getting that hot at all unless it happened when I wasn’t sitting in the Jeep or during initial 30 minute break in. I did have some help holding the throttle while I checked over things. My help doesn’t remember it getting that hot either. Again unfortunately I don’t have proof. Should’ve taken videos of the entire process. It sucks but their warranty clearly says if the motor overheats at any point warranty is void. So at this point I can’t really say anything negative about titan other than the warranty sucks but I read all that before I bought the motor. I’ll be pulling the motor within the next week or so to see how much damage is really there. Attached pics of the heat tabs in case someone else other than myself doesn’t know what they are. I didn’t until recently.
I wanted to wait to see what the remanufacture said before I posted a name. I believe I mentioned it in my original post but maybe not. It is from titan. I’ve been back and forth the last couple of days with them. They’re under the impression it was lack of oil. Unfortunately one of the heat tabs melted some. It was one on the freeze plug. Which is weird because the one right next to the thermostat housing looks fine. I know the freeze plug is thinner than the block so maybe that’s why? I was told these tabs are rated for 240-250. I don’t remember it getting that hot at all unless it happened when I wasn’t sitting in the Jeep or during initial 30 minute break in. I did have some help holding the throttle while I checked over things. My help doesn’t remember it getting that hot either. Again unfortunately I don’t have proof. Should’ve taken videos of the entire process. It sucks but their warranty clearly says if the motor overheats at any point warranty is void. So at this point I can’t really say anything negative about titan other than the warranty sucks but I read all that before I bought the motor. I’ll be pulling the motor within the next week or so to see how much damage is really there. Attached pics of the heat tabs in case someone else other than myself doesn’t know what they are. I didn’t until recently.
Hopefully you can install new cam bearings and keep on rolling.
Heat doesn't cause that issue.
-Mac
Heat doesn't cause that issue.
-Mac
I think I'd look at the bearing alignment first thing, like jezza mentioned. I've seen oil starvation from that before. I'd also document the teardown too, probably with video, just in case you find something like that.
I’ll make sure to document as much as possible. And update when I do. I appreciate it.
I didn’t think so either. Hoping I caught it soon enough that it didn’t do enough damage to need machine work or a new camshaft.
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