Need suggestions for a solid work bench

Chris

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I need suggestions on a solid work bench which has some weight to it and preferably isn't made with a cheap, thin metal base.

I was looking at this one for instance:

https://www.lowes.com/pd/CRAFTSMAN-72-in-W-x-41-25-in-H-Wood-Work-Bench/1000462545
If you see the customer reviews, you can see that something like that will damage and dent easily.

I want to put a vise on it, and it needs to be something that has enough weight that it will stay in place incase I decide to really put the vice to work.

Any input or suggestions would be great.
 
I ended up making my own with a butcher block top made out of 2x4's, then layered some mdf on top. I can sand down the mdf or replace easily and with the 2x4 constructed top, it weights a ton, doesn't move, and I can pound on it with a sledgehammer if I want. It's lasted 20 years so far.

20201031_154527.jpg
 
Build your own out of 2x4s, or even 4x4s. Layer 2x4s as a top, then put plywood over the top of that. Bolt it to the floor with angles and cement anchors. That'll give you a "heavy side of medium duty" workbench. I've never seen a pre-fab that I liked.
 
When I built the AZ house bench I knew I wanted my work box under the bench. I also wanted the bench top height to match the cabinets to it’s left. These criteria meant I’d have to build my own.
8125C0AB-8B89-490B-B52E-AFA360F93E67.jpeg

I couldn’t find decent quality (straight) 4x4 at the time I was building so I laminated my legs out of 3 Douglas Fir 2 x 4s. Two glued face to face and the third 2x4 face glued and screwed to the doubled edge.
I ran the legs thru the table saw to clean up the edges during lamination.

The metal top was ordered thru HD. Under most of the top is a layer of 2x6 and plywood.

You can see the edge of the 2x6 frame in this pic as well as the 1/2” plywood shear panel that is rabbeted in to the legs. This feature really helps kept the bench from racking.
4069C702-5465-4D83-BB47-129F54C87337.jpeg

Even with all the mass in this bench I could still move the bench if I really reefed on something in the vise.

I couldn’t drill into the floor to secure the bench because the house was constructed with a post tension slab. I added the two 2x4s to space the bench away from the Stem Wall and lag screwed the whole thing to the wall framing.
Now it’s solid!
 
I need suggestions on a solid work bench which has some weight to it and preferably isn't made with a cheap, thin metal base.

I was looking at this one for instance:

https://www.lowes.com/pd/CRAFTSMAN-72-in-W-x-41-25-in-H-Wood-Work-Bench/1000462545
If you see the customer reviews, you can see that something like that will damage and dent easily.

I want to put a vise on it, and it needs to be something that has enough weight that it will stay in place incase I decide to really put the vice to work.

Any input or suggestions would be great.

That Craftsman bench is not what you are looking for. I have it and it's very lightweight and moves easily.
 
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This is the one I have in my gun room. It is a real sturdy metal base with a 1.5 inch thick butcher block top. This thing weighs a ton and is a solid as can be. I bought 2 of them at Sam's club. My wife has the other one in her craft studio. The brand is Seville Classics. You can also get a rolling stogare cabinet with drawers the will fit under one side of it.

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Forever I thought you could only buy 4 x 4's in pressure treated but in recent years I have found both HD and Lowes have untreated 4 x 4. Cant go wrong with that. I have a large bench in my sewing room made out of 4 x 4's.
 
I made 2 of my own about 14 years ago using these plans. I strayed from them a little on the length. I made them 8 feet long each. Super simple to build and are sturdy/heavy as hell. They have been pounded on for years.

My son used the plans and made a 4 foot long one 5 or 6 years ago.

I wish I had made the bottom shelf about 1/4” higher though. If I had, I could slide a gallon of paint under them instead of putting them on the shelves.

I have some actual pictures of them that I can post when I get home from work.

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No, no, no. Anything with a spanning plywood top is going to be "bouncy" to one degree or another. If that's OK, that's ok. If not, use 2x4s for the ENTIRE top, then cover with plywood or masonite.
DSC09881.JPG

This will be "dead" if you're beating on something. Only thing better is something made of half inch or better steel.
 
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No, no, no. Anything with a spanning plywood top is going to be "bouncy" to one degree or another. If that's OK, that's ok. If not, use 2x4s for the ENTIRE top, then cover with plywood or masonite.

This will be "dead" if you're beating on something. Only thing better is something made of half inch or better steel.
I'd be surprised if 2" of plywood top with 2x4 bracing would be all that bouncy, maybe a bit more than the 3.5" of 2x4 on my table, but you'd probably have to be really wailing on it to notice.
 
I'd be surprised if 2" of plywood top with 2x4 bracing would be all that bouncy, maybe a bit more than the 3.5" of 2x4 on my table, but you'd probably have to be really wailing on it to notice.
True enough - probably not enough difference to note for 99%.
 
Mine are 2 layers of 3/4” plywood and hardboard on top of that mounted to a 2x4 frame that has bracing in the center. Solid and no bounce.