New member with questions

Do you tow with transfer case in neutral? Or do you disconnect drive shafts? Or do you have full float axles that you can unlock?

I don't tow. But as I understand it, everyone just puts the transfer case in neutral.
 
Ha ha! Fair enough. I guess I should have qualified that statement. "hardcore rig" is subjective.

I'm certainly not looking at 52" tires and Rockwell toploaders. Nor 14 bolt's F&R with 44's. No supercharged LS engine swap is in my future. Outboarded coilovers will never be needed. Don't want longarms or triangulated linkages.
 
Ha ha! Fair enough. I guess I should have qualified that statement. "hardcore rig" is subjective.

I'm certainly not looking at 52" tires and Rockwell toploaders. Nor 14 bolt's F&R with 44's. No supercharged LS engine swap is in my future. Outboarded coilovers will never be needed. Don't want longarms or triangulated linkages.

I've often wondered where one draws the line between hardcore and not. @tworley are we there yet? :)
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Ha ha! Fair enough. I guess I should have qualified that statement. "hardcore rig" is subjective.

I'm certainly not looking at 52" tires and Rockwell toploaders. Nor 14 bolt's F&R with 44's. No supercharged LS engine swap is in my future. Outboarded coilovers will never be needed. Don't want longarms or triangulated linkages.

You might want to think twice about 37s then, because there’s no real way to do that properly and not end up building it “hardcore” 🤣

A 37” tire is absolutely massive for a TJ. You find very quick (it you haven’t already) why most of us build for 35s (which even 35s take a lot of work if you want to do it right).
 
Understood. Doing it right is the only way to do it.

I'm 30" and fairly stock right now. Going to use 35" tire size as my future target. Will hopefully remember to take measurements between modifications so I can gauge their impact on clearance increases.
 
Understood. Doing it right is the only way to do it.

I'm 30" and fairly stock right now. Going to use 35" tire size as my future target. Will hopefully remember to take measurements between modifications so I can gauge their impact on clearance increases.

The best thing you can do is learn how to fully cycle the axles with a floor jack.
 
Do you tow with transfer case in neutral? Or do you disconnect drive shafts? Or do you have full float axles that you can unlock?
Transfer case in neutral, transmission in park (automatic) or in gear (manual), key in the ignition turned one click forward of lock.

The transfer case and differentials are fine, as they are self lubricating. As long as the lubricant is in good condition, there won't be any problems.

The transmission must be in park or in gear because it is not self lubricating, and if it was in neutral, it may begin to spin and damage the internals.

Key must be in the ignition to allow the steering wheel to turn without locking up, but without turning on the accessories.
 
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I know that trail... Bigger rigs (fully build crawlers) just straddle that cut... until they slide into it because of the water/mud that's usually always there... I've seen a few guys that made it up as far as you are in that photo... only to slip their drivers rear into the same hole yours is in, and almost flop their jeep...
 
I know that trail... Bigger rigs (fully build crawlers) just straddle that cut... until they slide into it because of the water/mud that's usually always there... I've seen a few guys that made it up as far as you are in that photo... only to slip their drivers rear into the same hole yours is in, and almost flop their jeep...

We watched a stock JKU go tight up it. ;)