Trust me, this guy's knows what he is talking about!! The Rubicon I got from @AndyG does exactly what he describes, it is smooth as silk driving!!!
I wish she had that set up...just a basic solid set up
Gee. Just hit me. Wish I had it.
Trust me, this guy's knows what he is talking about!! The Rubicon I got from @AndyG does exactly what he describes, it is smooth as silk driving!!!
It is- But I wanted to point out the extreme - If she can barely go over 25 that is sad
Trust me, this guy's knows what he is talking about!! The Rubicon I got from @AndyG does exactly what he describes, it is smooth as silk driving!!!
That’s a good description and you’re not gonna do just one thing and get fantastic results most likely- It’s gonna be a process of getting all the connections good underneath and getting all the geometry correct-
Yours is typical of a lot of them that are out there on the market
It kind of bothers me because people put down how they drive having no idea all of the design that went into making them drives great has been basically defeated.
You don’t need a long arm kit.
You don’t need to do anything crazy underneath it and start letting someone design some kind of new suspension system.
you need it to start going back in the direction of the stock design with good connections and the proper adjustments made for the lift height you’re going to be running
You may also want to consider smaller tires than 35 inches because they are the beginning of the highest level of technical difficulty to make a TJ work right. If you can get back to 33 inches or less life can get a lot simpler.
You can drive down the road 70 miles an hour with one finger in any TJ that is properly lifted.
The load range air pressure and type of tire on the vehicle also has a lot of influence on how it rides and handles
It’s getting better 45 mph on the way to the shop yesterday.. Still sketchy as hell..
Good evening
We got the jeep back home this evening. The bracket is straight and it drives much better. I feel like there’s light at the end of the tunnel .
I have looked at many front track bars and there more I look the more confused I get. Please point me to an affordable track bar that will work. The rear TB looks to be stock.
Here you go-You should be able to go back to your original mount hole and a 10 mm bolt or you can put in a moog K 7252 bushing in the track bar at the axle and run the bigger boat since your mount is drilled if both holes are drilled out- That second hole was a means of centering the
axle to
View attachment 364825
Thanks so much guys
I’m ordering the track bars now.
Just remember most track bars are going to come with a 10 mm sized bushing and yours appears to be drilled out so you may have to press the bushing out of the track bar in step the bushing up - And I’m telling you wrong on the K 7252 it has a 14 mm inside diameter
There is a bushing that you guys use that is 12 mm and I think it comes out of a JK
This is all of the axle end
I went back and looked at your picture and it looks like you can use your original hole you’re just gonna have to come up with a 10 mm bolt and get a good grade 8 because there is some stress on these
OK thanks for that information because I’ve probably been staring at it scratching my head lol. Also I have another question, do I need to replace the track bar with it jacked up wheels off the ground or wheels on the ground?
Well the goal is for the axles to be centered- You can start with measuring from bolt 2 bolt and see if your axles are centered with the frame by measuring from the frame to the wheel or to the tire and you can get a pretty accurate measurement
A good example is if the bar is 32 inches and the wheels are a half inch off one side of the other you’re going to need to either shorten or lengthen the track bar accordingly
I would establish this with the vehicle on the ground
Then I would set the bar at the length I need an install it in whatever fashion that I can get it done and then drive the Jeep and bouncing up and down some and come back and check the measurements
At some point you’re going to need to cycle things by moving the suspension up and down and making sure everything clears especially in the back
Ok, thanks. The bars will be here Saturday. Tomorrow I will swap the pitman arm and do the sway bar bushings. Sadly I’m at my real job today
I went back and looked at your picture and it looks like you can use your original hole you’re just gonna have to come up with a 10 mm bolt and get a good grade 8 because there is some stress on these
On the front you can get one from rough country that is $129 right now and it will be rebuild a bowl with parts store Moog bushings - a stock TJ bushing at the axle and an ES3096L at the frame- That is the only track bar for the most part that I know of you can do that with- It has a good bend to make everything clear and it’s on the front of John’s jeep
One of the few things from Rough Country that works well. I put it on my son's Jeep. It's worked well.
I love the way you’re going after it-
You can't get a 10mm bolt in grade 8. You can get it in 5.8, 8.8, 10.9 or 12.9.
Thank you! I just hope it’s fixed before I go broke
We have a great family owed Napa here. He stocks grade 8 bolts. I’ll go see them tomorrow .
Sway Bar centered and bushings changed, clamps added. That was a job, had to move the winch. Back bracket bolts wouldn’t come out all the way (rusted, old and bent), so getting the new bushings in was a trick.
Pitman arm is back stock. Steering wheels adjusted. Track bar didn’t show up, USPS still has it .
Started out almost 2” and we are now 3/16 from center, needs to go toward the passenger side. Please advise me how to get that 3/16? I have an alignment appt also.