Noise on deceleration after SYE install

So I went back out this morning to do a few tests and try to take a better video. I think it’s easier to hear what I’m hearing in this one.

Also, the noise didn’t go away with the trans in neutral. Didn’t try TC in neutral but I could later if someone wants me to. Noise seemed to be louder and happen at lower speeds when going downhill. Usually stopped once I got below (around) 30 on flat ground, but I could hear it down hill to about 15-20.



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Hey guys, just wanted to see if anyone had a chance to check out the recording of the noise and if it was familiar to anyone. I'm sure I'm getting close to just taking it to the shop and having them diagnose it.
 
I have not, but I can do that when I get home today. I had originally done that when wrapping up the sye before receiving the driveshaft, but not at speed, just checking for engagement more than anything else


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Forgot that those bolts have red thread locker on them. Will have to take it off tomorrow when I borrow a torch


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Have you e-mailed a pic of that driveshaft to Adams? That does seem like an awful lot of spline showing.
 
twistedlv said:
Have you e-mailed a pic of that driveshaft to Adams? That does seem like an awful lot of spline showing.
Click to expand...

I hadn’t yet, I’ll send it to them in the morning and see what’s up. From everything I’ve heard, they should help me out if something’s wrong with it


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Tarmijo94 said:
I hadn’t yet, I’ll send it to them in the morning and see what’s up. From everything I’ve heard, they should help me out if something’s wrong with it


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Click to expand...
Yeah, I've got and Adams front DS in mine. They're good guys.
 
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I talked to a guy at Adams that confirmed the driveshaft is good to go. Said its fine for up to 2 inches of the blue coating to be showing. He also said he thought the angle looked fine, but suggested maybe trying one more turn of the arms before removing the shaft and testing it. Any thoughts on whether thats worth doing? Or just take it out and test it. I don't want to lift the angle past straight and run into more problems.
 
Re-check you angles. Measure again on the diff flats and then the ds. Make sure your rear upper arms aren't in a bind. You should be able to adjust them both by hand.
 
I'll remeasure this evening. With regards to those flat spots, the last time I measured and took pictures I got two different angles on each side of the pumpkin. Why could that be/do I need to do something to change that? I'm not sure if they're still different since I raised it a few days ago, but I would guess its the same way.
 
Tarmijo94 said:
I'll remeasure this evening. With regards to those flat spots, the last time I measured and took pictures I got two different angles on each side of the pumpkin. Why could that be/do I need to do something to change that? I'm not sure if they're still different since I raised it a few days ago, but I would guess its the same way.
Click to expand...

That was my concern as well. Both flats should give you similar readings. +,- 0.3* would seem acceptable. That is why you should make sure one arm isn't in bind.
 
Unless the unbolted adjustment isnt what you're concerned about

Edit:

Thinking about it, could the angles being different mean that the axle isn't square? The shop that installed the lift aligned it after the lower arms were put in. Whats the best way to check that if needed?
 
Take a straight edge from the front of the axle tube in front of the lower arm bracket and measure to the the center bolt of the TC skid. Duplicate on the other side. That will tell you if the axle is square to the frame. If you can turn both upper arms easily then you don't have any bind, which is good.
 
Well lads, I think I’ve found it. I checked all angles again and there were good. Axle was square. Pulled the back end of the driveshaft out and noticed that the yoke moves ever so slightly up and down. I believe that means the pinion bearing is shot, correct?


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