Oil Filter Wrench

WVJeep304

TJ Enthusiast
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What do you guys use? I've never bothered with one with a few exceptions to that over the years that basically left no other option. I'm considering picking this one up tomorrow. But, there's certainly some circumstances this won't work/fit. I've had very little luck with strap wrenches (at least the ones with the rubber belt).

Any suggestions? I'll probably pick up the above pair of filter pliers/wrench/whatever it is unless y'all tell me it's junk. But i should probably also look for something to work in the circumstances where this one won't.
 
I like the pliers type if there is enough room . I use the strap type on my larger diesel filters. Today I used the metal one that fit over the end of the filter on my 94 k2500 with a 350 . With that one I able to use an extension to get by the front driveshaft , it worked OK I suppose. In my younger days , most of the time I could just use my hands . That's getting more difficult now .
 
I have a different one for each of my vehicles, in fact I have a whole drawer full of filter wrenches. For the Jeep I use the cap style, fits very snug and makes it easy to turn both removing and installing without overtightening. I turn it with a 3/4" wrench. I do have a pair of those plier type but I can't recall ever using them.

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I like the pliers type if there is enough room . I use the strap type on my larger diesel filters. Today I used the metal one that fit over the end of the filter on my 94 k2500 with a 350 . With that one I able to use an extension to get by the front driveshaft , it worked OK I suppose. In my younger days , most of the time I could just use my hands . That's getting more difficult now .

Fortunately, I still have the grip strength for now, but leverage, space, and friction have been the issues. I have a pair of milwaukee textured gloves that are the only reason I was able to complete the oil change on the TJ the other day, and they're about shot at this point.

Most of the other vehicles I do regular oil changes on are less of an issue for access, but don't provide room for the pliers style wrench and make it difficult to get a good grip by hand (GM LS engines).


I have a different one for each of my vehicles, in fact I have a whole drawer full of filter wrenches. For the Jeep I use the cap style, fits very snug and makes it easy to turn both removing and installing without overtightening. I turn it with a 3/4" wrench. I do have a pair of those plier type but I can't recall ever using them.

View attachment 701240

I've never actually used this style before. Would likely be ideal for my trucks if I can figure out which size to get.
 
I used a small strap wrench when changing my oil/filter last week 'cus seems I've misplaced my old TJ cap wrench socket. I also have these 16" pliers purchased to release the fuel filter housing cap of my former MINI R53 but didn't try them on the TJ. More than likely, I'll buy another cap socket like B1Toad showed...
 
Fortunately, I still have the grip strength for now, but leverage, space, and friction have been the issues. I have a pair of milwaukee textured gloves that are the only reason I was able to complete the oil change on the TJ the other day, and they're about shot at this point.

Most of the other vehicles I do regular oil changes on are less of an issue for access, but don't provide room for the pliers style wrench and make it difficult to get a good grip by hand (GM LS engines).




I've never actually used this style before. Would likely be ideal for my trucks if I can figure out which size to get.

This is the actual one I use on the TJ. So far it has fit every brand and size filter I have used on the 4.0 including Motorcraft. It fits very snug and I actually have to tap the bottom upwards with my wrench to remove it from the filter. It measures 90mm inside from flat to flat and it has 15 flats. I have no idea where I got it, I've had it long before the TJ.

I also like it because it doesn't get in the way of my drain hole, I make a hole in my filter with a self drilling screw, then rotate it down and let it drain then rotate it back up and put the screw back in. Saves a lot of mess on that horizontal filter removal.


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I've always use an oil filter wrench similar to this one below.

(B1Toad ...Brilliant idea with the drain hole and self tapping screw!. I've been trying to determine how reduce the mess. I'm definitely going to try that on my next oil change. Thank you for the idea.)


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I've always use an oil filter wrench similar to this one below.

(B1Toad ...Brilliant idea with the drain hole and self tapping screw!. I've been trying to determine how reduce the mess. I'm definitely going to try that on my next oil change. Thank you for the idea.)


View attachment 701260

I have a similar one and it works well. The rubber strip inside is the key to getting it to grip the oil filter. I have another similar one that doesn’t have the swivel handle and no rubber strip. I like the handle for leverage, but with no rubber strip and it slips A lot.
 
I make a hole in my filter with a self drilling screw, then rotate it down and let it drain then rotate it back up and put the screw back in. Saves a lot of mess on that horizontal filter removal.

I've had many filter wrenches and sockets over the years, used with varying degrees of success. My typical approach is to punch a slot low on the filter body with a big flat screwdriver to allow most of the oil to drain, not dissimilar to your self-tapping screw system, though admittedly a bit more neanderthal. I then reinsert the screwdriver and punch it the rest of way through, using the screwdriver handle as a lever to break the filter canister free. Only works if you have the space, and plenty of oil filter locations do not. That said, you need space for pliers and strap wrenches as well. If you can find a good filter socket that fits, they seem to work well - the tighter the fit the better. I've had some cheap stamped sockets that just ruined the flats on the canister, making removal even more of a PITA. I think I had a strap wrench work once in my life.

So far with the LJ, I've been able remove them by hand, but who knows how much longer that will last. Not getting any younger here and injury seems to come easier with age. I need to find one of those @B1Toad sockets...and be a little kinder to my old ass. 😀

I prefer cartridge filters as they tend to eliminate issues surrounding removal and replacement, generally speaking. Also easier to inspect the used filter and they generate less waste as well. That said, some are poorly designed and/or positioned and tend to create a mess.
 
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I have a similar one and it works well. The rubber strip inside is the key to getting it to grip the oil filter. I have another similar one that doesn’t have the swivel handle and no rubber strip. I like the handle for leverage, but with no rubber strip and it slips A lot.

Same problem I encounter. Some electrical tape (or duct tape) wrapped around the band helps quite a bit. I've also inserted a piece of sandpaper between the band and the filter before, which always worked well. But I usually just use the pliers when there's room.
 
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HOLD ON GUYS I made a mistake, that oil filter socket that fits the TJ has 15 flats, not 16. I went online to look at 90mm sockets and they were all 15 flats or flutes so I went out and double checked mine. I edited my original post.
 
My typical approach is to punch a slot low on the filter body with a big flat screwdriver to allow most of the oil to drain, not dissimilar to your self-tapping screw system, though admittedly a bit more neanderthal. I then reinsert the screwdriver and punch it the rest of way through, using the screwdriver handle as a lever to break the filter canister free.

I've done this numerous times over the years when my bare hands or a filter wrench failed me (or if I didn't have one), especially after someone else had changed the oil and way overtightened the filter. But, on 2 occasions, I managed to rip the filter completely in half while turning the screwdriver. That made it a MAJOR PITA to finish the job, and added an hour or two as well.
 
I've done this numerous times over the years when my bare hands or a filter wrench failed me (or if I didn't have one), especially after someone else had changed the oil and way overtightened the filter. But, on 2 occasions, I managed to rip the filter completely in half while turning the screwdriver. That made it a MAJOR PITA to finish the job, and added an hour or two as well.

The one and only time I tried that the filter also ripped in half. This was on a friends car who called me when he couldn't get the filter off. I ended up coaxing the remains off with a chisel on the bottom ring.
 
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after someone else had changed the oil and way overtightened the filter

Which is most of the time. :sneaky:

I've had my ham-fisted moments, and I've snapped more fasteners than I care to remember due a poorly calibrated torque wrench arm, so I may not have much room to talk...but people need to follow the damn instructions for tightening filters! Sometimes tighter isn't better.

I think my LJ is the first vehicle I've purchased where the filter that was on it when bought actually came off by hand. Oil changes are gravy if everything goes to plan, but we don't live in that world. :LOL:

But, on 2 occasions, I managed to rip the filter completely in half while turning the screwdriver. That made it a MAJOR PITA to finish the job, and added an hour or two as well.
The one and only time I tried that the filter also ripped in half. This was on a friends car who called me when he couldn't get the filter off. I ended up coaxing the remains off with a chisel on the bottom ring.

I've done this at least once that I can remember, and I think I couldn't find my proper "oil filter screwdriver", instead I used another than fell to hand - with a square shank. I mean, I pretty much asked it tear with that bonehead move. But to your point, it's not a perfect solution, by far.
 
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...but people need to follow the damn instructions for tightening filters! Sometimes tighter isn't better.

I'll say this... I always tighten my filters until my handometer says it's tight enough. It's always worked well. But last week, the filter seemingly tightened itself to a point I couldn't remove it. My bare hand slipped on it and I didn't have a wrench. It wasn't until I remembered my milwaukee gloves and maneuvered myself into position to get both hands on it that I was able to slowly, about a 1/2" at a time, spin it loose until I could remove it one-handed.

I've had that happen before on other vehicles, but can usually get good enough access to use my hands and rage on it until it comes loose. That's a bit harder on the tj without removing other stuff I don't want to remove. This is why I made this thread 😂.
 
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I've done this numerous times over the years when my bare hands or a filter wrench failed me (or if I didn't have one), especially after someone else had changed the oil and way overtightened the filter. But, on 2 occasions, I managed to rip the filter completely in half while turning the screwdriver. That made it a MAJOR PITA to finish the job, and added an hour or two as well.

Yep, and yep. Years back I had to have my '86 C-10 towed to the family mechanic because I was an idiot and over tightened the filter. I received the "mechanic's advice" on that one ("Don't you EVER do that again; and if you do, don't bring it here!"). I used a similar sentence a time or two when I worked IT when a client did something REALLY dumb. It took the mechanic 30 minutes with a hammer and chisel to beat the base off the filter mount!

As for tools - I've always mostly used the strap type without rubber and they've worked fine. The cap style is great when there's limited room, sometimes you have to tap the cap onto the filter as they do fit very tight. Like @chili_pepper , I MUCH prefer cartridge filters - easier and neater with less waste.
 
I MUCH prefer cartridge filters - easier and neater with less waste.

Shame there isn't some kind of retro-fit to change up the filter type...short of maybe going remote. But doing that's just adding complexity and additional potential leak points to the system.
 
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