Wow, great build thread with impressive mods, craftsmanship and detailed directions. Thank you @OldBuzzard!
OldBuzzard's 2005 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited
- Thread starter OldBuzzard
- Start date
Fog Light Power Relay
Chrysler ran the full power for the headlights through the Multi-Function Switch (MFS) on the steering column. Ditto on the fog lights. That's a poor engineering design, but it was probably a cost-control decision, saving a few bucks on relays. Most TJ owners know how abysmal the stock headlights are, partially due to the skinny wiring. And some have had to replace a burned up MFS.
My very first mod several years ago, after driving it 300 miles home from purchase, over several mountain passes, in the dark, was to add heavier wiring and relays for the headlights. And better H4 halogen lamps.
Now it's time to upgrade the circuit for the fog lights. The Factory Service Manual (FSM) for 2005 has the fog light wiring diagrams on pages 8W-50-3 and 8W-50-10.
There is an OEM fog light relay, but it just disables the fog lights when the high beams are on. That's not a problem, since in heavy fog or a blizzard you don't want the high beams on, or the low beams, you just want the fogs (if they're real fogs). I'll add a power relay under the hood to keep the high current out of the MFS. I would like to increase the wire size to the fogs (18 gauge is just barely adequate, 16 or 14 would be better), but I'll keep the OEM wires (for now).
I decided it would be easier to open the PDC (Power Distribution Center) than to dig into the big wire bundle on the firewall. This may or may not be the best place to access the fog wire. The OEM fog relay has a WT/OR (white-with-orange-stripe) 18-gauge wire coming out of it. That's the wire which feeds power to the fog lights. I cut that wire.
I cut two pieces of yellow 16-gauge primary wire and threaded them through the big wire bundle and into the PDC. I marked them with colored shrink tube (on both ends) for identification, and crimped them to the ends of the OEM wires, and sealed them with shrink tube.
Where they exit the big wire bundle, just below the PDC, I slid on some split conduit (aka Flexible Tubing aka Protective Wire Wrap) and taped it all up.
I crimped female disconnects on these wires, and ran them to a new Bosch relay. I have a trailer electrical box hanging from the passenger-side grille support rod, along with a ground bus. I mounted the relay to an aluminum plate, and hung it on the same rod using a 5/16" wire rope clip from Ace Hardware. I made power and ground wires, with an ATC fuse holder, and wired those in place.
This is my wiring diagram for the new power relay:
Everything works just like it always did, but the 9 amps (measured) feeding the fog lights no longer flows through the MFS.
Chrysler ran the full power for the headlights through the Multi-Function Switch (MFS) on the steering column. Ditto on the fog lights. That's a poor engineering design, but it was probably a cost-control decision, saving a few bucks on relays. Most TJ owners know how abysmal the stock headlights are, partially due to the skinny wiring. And some have had to replace a burned up MFS.
My very first mod several years ago, after driving it 300 miles home from purchase, over several mountain passes, in the dark, was to add heavier wiring and relays for the headlights. And better H4 halogen lamps.
Now it's time to upgrade the circuit for the fog lights. The Factory Service Manual (FSM) for 2005 has the fog light wiring diagrams on pages 8W-50-3 and 8W-50-10.
There is an OEM fog light relay, but it just disables the fog lights when the high beams are on. That's not a problem, since in heavy fog or a blizzard you don't want the high beams on, or the low beams, you just want the fogs (if they're real fogs). I'll add a power relay under the hood to keep the high current out of the MFS. I would like to increase the wire size to the fogs (18 gauge is just barely adequate, 16 or 14 would be better), but I'll keep the OEM wires (for now).
I decided it would be easier to open the PDC (Power Distribution Center) than to dig into the big wire bundle on the firewall. This may or may not be the best place to access the fog wire. The OEM fog relay has a WT/OR (white-with-orange-stripe) 18-gauge wire coming out of it. That's the wire which feeds power to the fog lights. I cut that wire.
I cut two pieces of yellow 16-gauge primary wire and threaded them through the big wire bundle and into the PDC. I marked them with colored shrink tube (on both ends) for identification, and crimped them to the ends of the OEM wires, and sealed them with shrink tube.
Where they exit the big wire bundle, just below the PDC, I slid on some split conduit (aka Flexible Tubing aka Protective Wire Wrap) and taped it all up.
I crimped female disconnects on these wires, and ran them to a new Bosch relay. I have a trailer electrical box hanging from the passenger-side grille support rod, along with a ground bus. I mounted the relay to an aluminum plate, and hung it on the same rod using a 5/16" wire rope clip from Ace Hardware. I made power and ground wires, with an ATC fuse holder, and wired those in place.
This is my wiring diagram for the new power relay:
Everything works just like it always did, but the 9 amps (measured) feeding the fog lights no longer flows through the MFS.
Fog Light Yellow Lenses
The OEM fog lights have a good pattern (wide, with sharp top cutoff), but real fog lights should be yellow or amber, which reduces reflection from the fog or falling snow.
I bought a 6" x 12" sheet of yellow Lamin-X film. It comes as a kit with good instructions, a knife, a squeegee, and a spray bottle.
I removed the bezels and lamps from the housings (3 T-20 Torx), leaving the housings on the bumper. The bezel just stretches to pop off the lamp. My lamps are lightly pitted and have some slight cracks from 20 years on the road. The surfaces are flat, so they're easy to laminate onto.
The OEM fog lights have a 6" face, with 1/8" covered all around by the plastic bezel. The Lamin-X is a smidge short of 6x12. I cut it exactly in half, and followed the instructions carefully (easy). Holding it by the corners, I had to reposition the film a few times to get it centered. Since the film is a bit short, it leaves a small gap at the edges, which will be covered by the bezel.
After using the squeegee to remove the bubbles, I reassembled everything.
I followed the FSM alignment specs, straight ahead and 4" down at 25 feet. Straight ahead is easy, since the housings are pinned to the bumpers in that position. It only took one tweak on one side (another T20 Torx at the rear of the base) to lower one lamp slightly. You can see the very wide pattern with sharp cutoffs top and bottom.
Now I just need to find a blizzard to play in.
The OEM fog lights have a good pattern (wide, with sharp top cutoff), but real fog lights should be yellow or amber, which reduces reflection from the fog or falling snow.
I bought a 6" x 12" sheet of yellow Lamin-X film. It comes as a kit with good instructions, a knife, a squeegee, and a spray bottle.
I removed the bezels and lamps from the housings (3 T-20 Torx), leaving the housings on the bumper. The bezel just stretches to pop off the lamp. My lamps are lightly pitted and have some slight cracks from 20 years on the road. The surfaces are flat, so they're easy to laminate onto.
The OEM fog lights have a 6" face, with 1/8" covered all around by the plastic bezel. The Lamin-X is a smidge short of 6x12. I cut it exactly in half, and followed the instructions carefully (easy). Holding it by the corners, I had to reposition the film a few times to get it centered. Since the film is a bit short, it leaves a small gap at the edges, which will be covered by the bezel.
After using the squeegee to remove the bubbles, I reassembled everything.
I followed the FSM alignment specs, straight ahead and 4" down at 25 feet. Straight ahead is easy, since the housings are pinned to the bumpers in that position. It only took one tweak on one side (another T20 Torx at the rear of the base) to lower one lamp slightly. You can see the very wide pattern with sharp cutoffs top and bottom.
Now I just need to find a blizzard to play in.
These little wire clamps are a cool cheap way to attach stuff to those strut rods, nice. I see you've used them more than this one time lol
My KC fogs had a pattern NOTHING like that. That is wild.
They fit that rod so perfectly that you can't just push them on over the rod, you have to put them on at the front end where the rod is flat and then slide them along the rod.
I was surprised at how thin that pattern was. I expected a sharp cutoff on top, but no cutoff on the bottom. Now I want to see what they do in a blizzard.
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Flashlight
I used a no-name cheap Chinese LED flashlight from Harbor Freight for 10 years. I kept it in the glovebox of two previous vehicles, and then in my LJ. I checked the cheapo original C cell batteries periodically. Recently, I looked closer and realized the batteries were marked "Best if used by: DEC 2014". Oops, 10 years past their expiration date, and still working fine. I grabbed some "new" Duracells from my battery drawer, and saw that they had expired in MAR 2004. Wow, 20 years out of date and still showing 1.5+ volts under a load. But of course I don't trust any of them for emergencies. Instead of replacing batteries, maybe it's time for a new flashlight.
I followed the thread Tactical and High End Flashlights and realized I was missing out on some much better equipment. I took @B1Toad's recommendation and bought a Fenix PD25R for a pocket flashlight.
I've used it many times, and liked it so much that I bought a larger Fenix PD35 V3.0 for the Jeep.
This is my first experience with ultra-bright rechargeable flashlights. I'm impressed.
I used a no-name cheap Chinese LED flashlight from Harbor Freight for 10 years. I kept it in the glovebox of two previous vehicles, and then in my LJ. I checked the cheapo original C cell batteries periodically. Recently, I looked closer and realized the batteries were marked "Best if used by: DEC 2014". Oops, 10 years past their expiration date, and still working fine. I grabbed some "new" Duracells from my battery drawer, and saw that they had expired in MAR 2004. Wow, 20 years out of date and still showing 1.5+ volts under a load. But of course I don't trust any of them for emergencies. Instead of replacing batteries, maybe it's time for a new flashlight.
I followed the thread Tactical and High End Flashlights and realized I was missing out on some much better equipment. I took @B1Toad's recommendation and bought a Fenix PD25R for a pocket flashlight.
I've used it many times, and liked it so much that I bought a larger Fenix PD35 V3.0 for the Jeep.
This is my first experience with ultra-bright rechargeable flashlights. I'm impressed.
Recovery Gear
I've had some pretty mediocre recovery gear in the Jeep for a few years: cheap tow ropes, receiver shackle, no winch. I recently replaced the rear bumper with a Dirtworx with built-in recovery points and D-rings.
Thanks to @mrblaine's very generous prizes for the ROTM contest, I'm able to do some more upgrades.
WRG front Recovery Points - Soft Shackle Friendly
I removed the OEM horns and installed Blaine's recovery points.
The pusher pads were in the way, so I drilled two holes and moved them inboard a little (had to remove the bumper). I haven't actually used the pusher pads on this Jeep, but I used them several times on my old CJ5 (made from exploded semi truck tires). So I wanted to keep them.
WRG Soft Shackles
Four of Blaine's soft shackles.
TRE kinetic recovery rope
Tactical Recovery Equipment (TRE) Kinetic Recovery Rope, 3/4", 30 ft, 18,000 lb. breaking strength, for vehicles up to 6,000 lbs.
I've had some pretty mediocre recovery gear in the Jeep for a few years: cheap tow ropes, receiver shackle, no winch. I recently replaced the rear bumper with a Dirtworx with built-in recovery points and D-rings.
Thanks to @mrblaine's very generous prizes for the ROTM contest, I'm able to do some more upgrades.
WRG front Recovery Points - Soft Shackle Friendly
I removed the OEM horns and installed Blaine's recovery points.
The pusher pads were in the way, so I drilled two holes and moved them inboard a little (had to remove the bumper). I haven't actually used the pusher pads on this Jeep, but I used them several times on my old CJ5 (made from exploded semi truck tires). So I wanted to keep them.
WRG Soft Shackles
Four of Blaine's soft shackles.
TRE kinetic recovery rope
Tactical Recovery Equipment (TRE) Kinetic Recovery Rope, 3/4", 30 ft, 18,000 lb. breaking strength, for vehicles up to 6,000 lbs.
You're ready to hit the beach in Mexico with us now!
Fenix sent me an email today on their smallest headlamp, the HM50R V2.0 and I just now ordered one 10% off.
If I was still hiking at night a lot like I used to, that would be great. That headlamp is probably 5 times brighter than the one I used to use.
I use them for working on vehicles, working in the attic or crawl space, under the sink, even painting in dim light.
Those recovery points look like they came that way from the factory on the OEM bumper. Very good design and sad more people did not see just how nice these were (they are discontinued now at WRG). I am very glad to have a set on my Orange jeep that Blaine is building for me.
Discontinued? I still see them there:
https://blackmagicbrakes.com/ols/categories/wizard-recovery-gear (middle column, second row)
https://blackmagicbrakes.com/ols/products/recovery-points-soft-shackle-friendly
Once they are gone, they are gone.
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/soft-shackle-friendly-recovery-points.83126/
Frame Sprayer
I made a frame sprayer to clean salt, dirt, gravel, rust flakes out of the frame. It's quick and easy to use a garden hose to blast all of that crud out of there, with drain holes drilled in the frame. I just stick it in every hole and blast away.
I made a frame sprayer to clean salt, dirt, gravel, rust flakes out of the frame. It's quick and easy to use a garden hose to blast all of that crud out of there, with drain holes drilled in the frame. I just stick it in every hole and blast away.
DIY digital speedometer corrector
I built an Arduino-based digital speedometer corrector, and ran it in the Jeep for a couple of years. Then I built a new PIC-based one, and it's in there now. Both have given excellent service.
I posted the info over here (a while back):
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/diy-digital-speedometer-corrector.86521/
Information for the designs are posted on GitHub.
I built an Arduino-based digital speedometer corrector, and ran it in the Jeep for a couple of years. Then I built a new PIC-based one, and it's in there now. Both have given excellent service.
I posted the info over here (a while back):
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/diy-digital-speedometer-corrector.86521/
Information for the designs are posted on GitHub.
Shift Knob
I replaced my OEM shift knob with a billiard ball from a thrift store. You could call it a Gen-X-Y-Z theft deterrent device.
If you've ever drilled into a material like plastic, you might have had the bit bite deep and pull itself through, hard. So I made a jig to hold the ball, so the bit can't grab it and yank it up, and the ball won't spin.
I should have used a wider stick on top, so I could use a larger hole, so I could see to align the ball better. I didn't get the hole perfectly aligned, as you'll see below. But I can't tell the difference on the pretty end.
The thread on the 2005 shifter is M10x1.5, with about 1" of threads, plus a 1/8" shank. I used a 21/64" drill bit (not perfect, but only 0.006" small, and I'm tapping plastic). I tapped the ball about 1-1/8" deep.
I heated the shift knob with a hair dryer to where I could just touch it without burning my hand. I'm guessing about 125°F, still cooler than the sun can make it on a hot day. I used a very narrow little screwdriver to probe down the left side of the H-pattern insert for the little cutout, and pried it up. It stretches the rubber of the knob alarmingly, but with a little more heat afterward, it came right back into shape.
The threads on the shifter are longish, which is why I had to tap the ball deeply.
I screwed the ball onto the shaft, leaving about 1/2" of threads exposed. I placed a small dab of JBWeld epoxy on the threads. I think this will be enough to keep it tight, but still removable. If it doesn't hold, I'll add more epoxy someday.
I screwed the ball down over the epoxy, gently, wiping it clean as the epoxy squeezed out. Align the number on top of the ball to your liking.
I like the feel of this larger 2-1/4" knob.
I replaced my OEM shift knob with a billiard ball from a thrift store. You could call it a Gen-X-Y-Z theft deterrent device.
If you've ever drilled into a material like plastic, you might have had the bit bite deep and pull itself through, hard. So I made a jig to hold the ball, so the bit can't grab it and yank it up, and the ball won't spin.
I should have used a wider stick on top, so I could use a larger hole, so I could see to align the ball better. I didn't get the hole perfectly aligned, as you'll see below. But I can't tell the difference on the pretty end.
The thread on the 2005 shifter is M10x1.5, with about 1" of threads, plus a 1/8" shank. I used a 21/64" drill bit (not perfect, but only 0.006" small, and I'm tapping plastic). I tapped the ball about 1-1/8" deep.
I heated the shift knob with a hair dryer to where I could just touch it without burning my hand. I'm guessing about 125°F, still cooler than the sun can make it on a hot day. I used a very narrow little screwdriver to probe down the left side of the H-pattern insert for the little cutout, and pried it up. It stretches the rubber of the knob alarmingly, but with a little more heat afterward, it came right back into shape.
The threads on the shifter are longish, which is why I had to tap the ball deeply.
I screwed the ball onto the shaft, leaving about 1/2" of threads exposed. I placed a small dab of JBWeld epoxy on the threads. I think this will be enough to keep it tight, but still removable. If it doesn't hold, I'll add more epoxy someday.
I screwed the ball down over the epoxy, gently, wiping it clean as the epoxy squeezed out. Align the number on top of the ball to your liking.
I like the feel of this larger 2-1/4" knob.
WranglerFix PCM
I've had the WranglerFix PCM in the Jeep for about a year. I didn't really need one (yet), but since I got a discount as a ROTM award, I bought one. The Jeep has 110K+ miles, so it was probably just a matter of time, anyway. The PCM for the '05-'06 manual tranny costs considerably more than the auto one. Mark said "the manual pcms have a lot more involved in killing the transmission side of the pcm. It requires a lot more tech time, therefore the added cost."
It runs exactly as it should, no changes, no improvements, just a new part which should last a very long time.
I've had the WranglerFix PCM in the Jeep for about a year. I didn't really need one (yet), but since I got a discount as a ROTM award, I bought one. The Jeep has 110K+ miles, so it was probably just a matter of time, anyway. The PCM for the '05-'06 manual tranny costs considerably more than the auto one. Mark said "the manual pcms have a lot more involved in killing the transmission side of the pcm. It requires a lot more tech time, therefore the added cost."
It runs exactly as it should, no changes, no improvements, just a new part which should last a very long time.