Sadly, not an in-stock option (I last looked yesterday).Savvy offers the factory hinges for a bit more, just a note.
Sadly, not an in-stock option (I last looked yesterday).Savvy offers the factory hinges for a bit more, just a note.
Kentrol makes hinges. They work fine.Sadly, not an in-stock option (I last looked yesterday).
Wont that leave you with unused holes if you convert from the sheet metal option?Kentrol makes hinges. They work fine.
A factory style hinge is monstrous compared to the dinky hinges. They cover those unused holes.Wont that leave you with unused holes if you convert from the sheet metal option?
Got good condition factory hinges from Ebay with hardware. Even got the correct color.Sadly, not an in-stock option (I last looked yesterday).
I recently made acquaintance with a TJ salvager in TX. personable, and keeps a eye out if you want a specific item. ill PM you his info tomorrow.Yep. It was one thing going doorless for 15 minutes to hit Pike National Forest, but now all the wheeling spots are hours away. I don't want to leave my hard doors at an unattended camp site and making that drive doorless is a non starter with the wife, so she was the whole reason behind getting half doors to begin with. It took a 10 minute highway ride with the soft uppers for her to let me know that wasn't going to work. So when I got rid of the forest green pearl TJ for the flame red LJ, I sold the door setup instead of redoing the paint job.
Also in the market for some halves, preferably OEM. Flame red is a bonus. All the people selling them in eBay are on crack and when I find them in a salvage yard they're beat to hell and missing the inner panels and/or the guts.
I recently made acquaintance with a TJ salvager in TX. personable, and keeps a eye out if you want a specific item. ill PM you his info tomorrow.
Get some 3/8” plastic air line and cut it and slip it over the striker. Easy fix.Awesome. I hate thinking I'm gonna give in and settle for trail doors again, but at least UCF doors have a ($140!) option to accept OEM uppers. Same bestop latches I had on the JCRs, but others don't seem to have the rattle issues i did so maybe I just got a bad one.
Get some 3/8” plastic air line and cut it and slip it over the striker. Easy fix.
I ran into that problem when someone would just yank the handle to open the door, I prefer to push in a bit before pulling the handle.I did fix that problem by installing some weatherstrip around the perimeter of the door which preloaded the latch against the striker. My problem was actually the exterior handle/paddle rattling in the housing. I tried a couple things to tighten that up but it always left the paddle sticking slightly out from the door which didn't look right.
Whatever else Bestop does well, latches are not on that list. They have been bendy and rattle prone from Day 1 and they do not give a shit. Very specifically why I did not use them when I designed the Savvy Trail Doors. The lackluster quality of aftermarket door hinges is why I did not design them to use OEM hinges.I ran into that problem when someone would just yank the handle to open the door, I prefer to push in a bit before pulling the handle.
The handle mechanism is bendy. If they are sticking out they can be bent back in. So when the door is open the paddle sticks out, push on the paddle and it'll bend back in. Not sure how many times it'll last before fatigue wins but I've bent mine quite a few times with no negative issues.
Awesome. I hate thinking I'm gonna give in and settle for trail doors again, but at least UCF doors have a ($140!) option to accept OEM uppers. Same bestop latches I had on the JCRs, but others don't seem to have the rattle issues i did so maybe I just got a bad one.
edit: the following applies to the genright half doors, ucf may have a wider armrest or top sill that allows for oem uppers and most likely hard varieties too since they fit into the same factory lower.UCF website specifically says their brackets can be used to fit OEM soft uppers. I emailed them to ask if that wording was intentionally used to indicate incompatibility with hard uppers.
have the same issue. basically i open the door for anyone that rides so they don't dick up my stuff. gets old though... only gets worse with the soft uppers.I ran into that problem when someone would just yank the handle to open the door, I prefer to push in a bit before pulling the handle.
The handle mechanism is bendy. If they are sticking out they can be bent back in. So when the door is open the paddle sticks out, push on the paddle and it'll bend back in. Not sure how many times it'll last before fatigue wins but I've bent mine quite a few times with no negative issues.
here's the dealio. soft uppers come in 2 varieties. regular, and bestop soft lower compatible.
the difference is the amount of horizontal travel inboard toward the center of the vehicle from the frame wich holds the window skin rigid.
we could look at this like wheel offset if that helps. this is because Factory half doors are approximately 3 times as thick as an aluminum trail door, with the pin holes being roughly centerline.
therefore if you put a hard upper or standard soft upper on an aluminum half door, the pins would be inches inboard of the mounting holes.
yeah, I went through that ordeal with my JCRs. Had bought a set of OEM style soft uppers to use with some factory lowers before giving in and getting trail doors, so I got to learn the difference (in both design, and pricetag!) between the bestop uppers and oem uppers. If I only knew in early 2020 what I know today, I could have had factory half doors when it was reasonable to find a pair in ok condition for $600.
From what I've gathered on their websites it seems JCR and GenRight accept Bestop uppers; while UCF, with their $140 bracket upgrade will accept OEM style soft uppers. What I'm trying to figure out is if they will also accept the hard fiberglass slider uppers intended to fit an OEM lower half. The pin locations would be right, but I have a feeling the top edge of the door probably isn't shaped to interface correctly with the fiberglass upper. As far as I know, factory lowers are the only ones that have that chamfer on the top edge. I'm just waiting for them to confirm that and solidify that Ill have no choice but to pay out the nose for some OEM half doors and hope I can at least find some in PR4 so I don't have to spend another couple hundred bucks on paint supplies.
View attachment 316786
You can still find them for 500-600, just takes time and patience. They have become hard to find quickly locally.
I found the yellow ones (that @mrblaine picked up) for Chris' old rig in Yuma and told Chris about. I just saw the below ones today in Facebook.
View attachment 316826
If I were to buy a set for trail use, the only ones I'll buy are the ones designed by Blaine and sold by Savvy. While it looks all the same, there is enough detail in the half doors and Blaine's design is fully thought through like everything else he does. Other companies might be good, but I've been burned enough that I'm not willing to play the guessing game and waste my time. Money is not the factor here, but I do value my time and I appreciate the good thoughtful design and careful attention to detail.
I can confirm this. One of the OEM hinge holes overlaps part of the GR hinge holes.A factory style hinge is monstrous compared to the dinky hinges. They cover those unused holes.
PMdDammit I'm gonna end up having to get back on FB.
I agree on Savvy. For trail-only or even daily use in the area that Savvy and Blaine exist in, they'd be the clear choice. They were my original first choice but I had a timeline and they were on backorder. But I have climate and geographical (and relationship lol) considerations that make uppers a requirement for me.